Airmatic - Car too low, stop car

[yogi_akshar]

I bought the car privately a few months ago, and found out that it needed a new turbo, as there was was no power and kick-down.

After spending over a £1000 ( a mechanic I have known for over 12 years ), there was still no kick down. But recently, a message has been displayed, "Airmatic - Visit Workshop".

Took the car back to the mechanic. They said that they "reprogrammed" the car and it should all be o.k. They said they have checked the pump, relay, and leaks. All was o.k.

After driving for a day, same message came up "Airmatic, Visit Workshop".

After driving for a week, a new message is displayed "Airmatic Stop, Car Too Low". The car is now too low with the front wheels inside the wheel arches.

The car was made in the year 2003, with 87,000 miles on the clock.

The build quality of this model is worst than a 50 year old wheel barrow. After spending over a thousand pounds on the turbo, I now have a possible major problem with the suspension. I think the airmatic crap was designed by MB chimpanzees. There are many people on this forum with airmatic problems.

This will be the last time I buy a MB car with a crapmatic suspension. I will stick to the reliable spring suspension.

Any help in diagnosing this problem will be appreciated as I dont have any money to spend on this wheel barrow.

 

[mct_cars]

The car is 9 years old, and with 87k miles on the clock, the suspension has done okay so far. I guess this is a case of making sure you know what you're looking for when buying a car - these were expensive new, so don't expect them to be cheap to run.

Airmatic problem is usually a leak or the pump gone.

 

[yogi_akshar]

Thanks for the advice - will give the car back to the mechanic to re-check for leaks and test the pump again...

 

[mct_cars]

Thanks for the advice - will give the car back to the mechanic to re-check for leaks and test the pump again...

Not being funny, but take it to a different mecahnic. Resetting the fault 'aint gonna fix the issue!

Take it to a Merc specialist - preferably one with STAR diagnostics. You'll save a fortune long term and probably find someone who knows the common faults well,saving even more cash. Ask on the forum for someone recomended close to you.


PS - Welcome to the forum.

 

[Alps]

leak in the lines, pump on its way out or a leaky strut are the most likely causes

 

[yogi_akshar]

Thanks for all the advice.

AA towed the car back to the mechanic today ( I had to take it back to him as I have still not paid him for the previous airmatic problem ). Previously they did connect the star computer, and they said that the computer checked everything o.k. including the pump. The computer actually switched on the pump to check that it was working properly.

Will keep you posted.....

 

[yogi_akshar]

Pump & relay now changed and the car seems to be o.k. Won't be going to that mechanic again though. Very important to find the right mechanic for these cars.

When I bought the car the seller took me for a drive instead of me test driving it. This was my first mistake. Also, this car does not have any service history. Second mistake. I did not know much about S class models, and their problems, which was the third mistake.

After spending £1600 repair bills on a crap S class "wheel barrow", I have to now to sell the car which I bought 4 months ago as there is still a problem - no kick-down function, ( it could be the pedal switch, or the sensor, or something else tracing the fault from the pedal to the engine ) and I cannot afford to pay waste any money on this s class crap. I have learned a very costly lesson! I thought that a merecedes lasts a life time and the engine runs for 100s of thousands of miles, especially the s class. How wrong was I?

Before buying an S class :

1. Always do your research on the car and all it's problems, including repair costs. This includes common faults like instrument panel, airmatic, turbo, kick down. Then decide whether you want to buy an S class designed by highly trained chimps at mercedes headquarters or instead buy a decent Lexus.

2. Always buy an S-class that has full mercedes service history, no matter how cheap the car is. This is absolutely imperative.

3. If you do decide to buy one, test the car fully for :
a) turbo function - accelerate hard and make sure that the turbo is working
b) kick-down - floor the accelerator pedal and the car should take off. If there a fault, a message should come up on the panel something like " EPC Control Visit Workshop" and kick down will not work.
c) air conditioning - check that the light goes out when you press the a/c button. If it does not go out, there is a problem.
d) suspension - check that the pump is working properly by pressing the button that raises the suspension.
e) fault codes - if you can afford it, call out a mobile engineer that can plug in a unit to read all the codes. The unit needs to read mercedes codes. They normally charges between £35 to £100. The unit will give you all the fault codes including airmatic problems.
f) Obviously check for other things like tyres, brakes, bodywork, documents, etc.
g) finally, rely on your instinct - is the seller trying to get rid of the car and hiding something or is there a genuine reason. I had a feeling that the seller was indeed trying to get rid of the car riddled with problems but still bought it and regreted it!

Thanks all for your advice.......

 

[steve333]

Pump & relay now changed and the car seems to be o.k. Won't be going to that mechanic again though. Very important to find the right mechanic for these cars.

When I bought the car the seller took me for a drive instead of me test driving it. This was my first mistake. Also, this car does not have any service history. Second mistake. I did not know much about S class models, and their problems, which was the third mistake.

After spending £1600 repair bills on a crap S class "wheel barrow", I have to now to sell the car which I bought 4 months ago as there is still a problem - no kick-down function, ( it could be the pedal switch, or the sensor, or something else tracing the fault from the pedal to the engine ) and I cannot afford to pay waste any money on this s class crap. I have learned a very costly lesson! I thought that a merecedes lasts a life time and the engine runs for 100s of thousands of miles, especially the s class. How wrong was I?

Before buying an S class :

1. Always do your research on the car and all it's problems, including repair costs. This includes common faults like instrument panel, airmatic, turbo, kick down. Then decide whether you want to buy an S class designed by highly trained chimps at mercedes headquarters or instead buy a decent Lexus.

2. Always buy an S-class that has full mercedes service history, no matter how cheap the car is. This is absolutely imperative.

3. If you do decide to buy one, test the car fully for :
a) turbo function - accelerate hard and make sure that the turbo is working
b) kick-down - floor the accelerator pedal and the car should take off. If there a fault, a message should come up on the panel something like " EPC Control Visit Workshop" and kick down will not work.
c) air conditioning - check that the light goes out when you press the a/c button. If it does not go out, there is a problem.
d) suspension - check that the pump is working properly by pressing the button that raises the suspension.
e) fault codes - if you can afford it, call out a mobile engineer that can plug in a unit to read all the codes. The unit needs to read mercedes codes. They normally charges between £35 to £100. The unit will give you all the fault codes including airmatic problems.
f) Obviously check for other things like tyres, brakes, bodywork, documents, etc.
g) finally, rely on your instinct - is the seller trying to get rid of the car and hiding something or is there a genuine reason. I had a feeling that the seller was indeed trying to get rid of the car riddled with problems but still bought it and regreted it!

Thanks all for your advice.......

Sorry to hear of your woes,hindsight is a great thing,ironically if you had found one that ticked all the boxes in your check list above you could have had many miles of trouble free motoring-don't let this eaxperience put you off an s-class or any other mb now you havesome poiters!

 

[V12]

How much do you want for the car?

 

[yogi_akshar]

Hi V12,

I'll be putting it for sale at £5,800.

Drives like new ( new turbo with warranty plus new airmatic pump/relay ) except there is no kickdown function, and no service history but service and repair receipts.

Cheers...

 

[LTD]

Lot of money for a wheelbarrow designed by monkeys

 

[Agwarn]

Champagne tastes, lemonade pockets!

 

[V12]

Good luck to you then sir.

 

[yogi_akshar]

Originally, when it was new, the wheelbarrow cost £60k, so I think it's a good price to get rid of it, the actual selling price is £0, you are only paying for the badges. Also, the chimps are on very high salary, and someone has to pay, but sorry about the price.

I don't drink, and most champagnes leave a bad after-taste in my mouth like w220 s320cdi models. Lemonade anytime, thank you.....

 

[steve333]

Lot of money for a wheelbarrow designed by monkeys

But it drives like new albeit with no kickdown or service history!

 

[A-AvantGarde]

Hi V12,

I'll be putting it for sale at £5,800.

Drives like new ( new turbo with warranty plus new airmatic pump/relay ) except there is no kickdown function, and no service history but service and repair receipts.

Cheers...

That sounds steep for a 2003 S320 CDI with no service history and potentially with some faults regardless of the new parts.

Best of luck with the sale anyways...

 

[LTD]

But it drives like new albeit with no kickdown or service history!

I doubt I'd get £5800 for my S500 with full (MB and Indy) history and a boot-full of kick down ...

Seriously, I reckon you'd be doing well at £2,5k - £3k

 

[steve333]

I doubt I'd get £5800 for my S500 with full (MB and Indy) history and a boot-full or kick down ...

Seriously, I reckon you'd be doing well at £2,5k - £3k

Bearing in mind the known fault/no history i think your right-£2,500.

 

[A-AvantGarde]

Bearing in mind the known fault/no history i think your right-£2,500.

+1

My Dad managed to get something like £5.5k for his 2003 55k mile S320 petrol with full service history, very high spec (front & rear heated seats, wood leather wheel, elec blind etc..) & new Airmatic pump as a trade in and that was over a year ago!

 

[bolide]

Trade in ≠ private sale

Nick Froome