Auto gearbox fluid level - how to check?

[Cliff_G]

I've had my 1997 E320 W210 about a month now and I think the auto fluid level might be low. I used to check my old car (a Ford) by running it until it was warm, then parking, and while idling, running the gearshift through all the positions slowly, three times. One minute later, you checked the dipstick whilst still idling.

My 210 has a plastic thingy at the top of what looks like the gearbox dipstick - with "MB workshop only" on it - a bit intimidating.

Does anyone have any advice on checkign this? Also what fluid to use?

The symptoms, by the way, are that I feel the box slipping its drive occasionally, and the engine "hunts" when idling in gear, with the brake on, and you blip the throttle - as if the auto fluid is way low and is jumping up and down the torque converter. I originally thought the hunting was the throttle, but since it does not do it when out of gear, I suspect the auto level.

TIA

 

[sym]

How many miles has the car done ?

The fluid can be changed, despite MB saying that the box is sealed for "life", and several members here have done this themselves, or had it done by a specialist, with good effect.

If you remove the dipstick, a replacement one is a dealer supply item.

S.

 

[Steve_Perry]

Hi Cliff,

It sounds like your car is fitted with the 5 speed electronic auto box. If that is the case then your car will not have a dipstick for the auto box fluid level. You'll have a number of options...

1.) You can purchase a workshop autobox dipstick from the dealer if you really want to check the level yourself. You can do a forum search on auto or dipstick to get the correct part number to quote.

2.) You can get the dealer to check the level in your auto box although they will obviously want to charge for this task.

3.) Take your car to an autobox specialist.

There have been many posts on the subject of modern MB autoboxes. MB claim that these boxes are 'sealed for life' most independent mechanics believe the fluid should be changed every 60k miles (approx).

S.

 

[Cliff_G]

Update

Thanks, Stev and Sym,

No, the box is a 7225xx.. (According to the data card in teh back of the servcie booklet) and is 4-speed, not the 722.6 5-speed electronic.

Car's done 57,000

I am pretty sure this is a low ATF issue. Took it out today about 20 miles and after it had thorouhgly warmed up, the "hunting" does not happen - the fluid has warmed up and expanded, and is at a better working level.

Many people would not have noticed what was going on, but at one point my last car kept losing auto fluid into the engine via a crack in a vacuum unit diaphragm, hence over time I got to know the symptoms of low ATF level !

 

[jimmy]

I thought the 4-speeds had a dipstick where as the 5-speeds have the tamper evident seal that you describe. I have the dipstick for the 5-speed, was a struggle to get the parts department to sell it to me but they gave in eventually.

You have to have the transmission warm/hot and check the fluid with the engine running. I recently changed mine at 65K miles, no way would I want that fluid left in their any longer!! I know for the 5-speed that you must only use the special genuine MB fluid.

 

[djcheung]

I had my 5-speed electronic auto gearbox oil changed last Friday at 96k miles. It does make a difference on the gear change, much smoother between gears. When the MB specialist (M&D )took the filter out, it still contain a large amount of oil in it and that indicated the filter was blocked.
When checking the oil level, they run the engine until the gear oil is warm and then use a MB (special) dipstick to check the level.

By the way, I still haven't fixed the W/S switch yet ( nobody wants to touch it until a diagnostic is carried out - to save money just in case it's not the switch). Taking the car to another specialist tomorrow to put it on the computer and see if they can identify the problem.

Just off topic. Got the instrument cluster removal tool via the specialist over the weekend and changed the lightbulb. Saved some dosh there.

 

[Anders]

What is the collective wisdom on oilchange on a S202 (C43) with the 5-speed electronic autobox?

Mine has done 102.000 km (63 K miles in old money), so I have asked the dealer, who also said it really should be done every 90.000 km despite what MB officially claims, to change it next week.

Smart move, or waste of money?

 

[guydewdney]

well - it probably has the same 'box as my CL420 - which ripped the teeth off the main drive shaft at 140K miles - and cost 1200 quid to get re-built.

for the 90 ish quid of oil (MB only) tenner filter and half hour labour - I would...


think about it - what mineral / synthetic long molecule oil can be squashed between teeth of a gearbox for 63 thousand miles and still be as new?

oil is made up of long spaggetti like strands. try putting spaggetti in a blender and see how long it lasts

 

[Dave Bailey]

5-speed auto gearbox oil change

I thought the 4-speeds had a dipstick where as the 5-speeds have the tamper evident seal that you describe. I have the dipstick for the 5-speed, was a struggle to get the parts department to sell it to me but they gave in eventually.

You have to have the transmission warm/hot and check the fluid with the engine running. I recently changed mine at 65K miles, no way would I want that fluid left in their any longer!! I know for the 5-speed that you must only use the special genuine MB fluid.

Hi Jimmy, How do you change the gearbox oil on your 5-speeder? I'd like to do mine, as I doubt it's been done at all to date (69k). There's certainly no record of it in the service history. It would be nice to find out what all the pitfalls are, where the drain bungs are, etc from someone who's done it before. If you've already posted a "how to" before, maybe you could point me in the right direction.

Many thanks,

Dave

 

[Jukie]

What happens if you don't use genuine MB transmission oil? And no, I haven't!! Just asking!

 

[Dieselman]

What happens if you don't use genuine MB transmission oil? And no, I haven't!! Just asking!

Possibly nothing, but all autoboxes have specifically designed fluid. They contain a cocktail of enhancers and seal swellers. If the seals swell too much or not enough you can lose pressure and the box wont work.
Also the later MB fluid is synthetic.

 

[jimmy]

Hi Jimmy, How do you change the gearbox oil on your 5-speeder? I'd like to do mine, as I doubt it's been done at all to date (69k). There's certainly no record of it in the service history. It would be nice to find out what all the pitfalls are, where the drain bungs are, etc from someone who's done it before. If you've already posted a "how to" before, maybe you could point me in the right direction.

Many thanks,

Dave

Dave,

I have to admit I do have my own four-poster car ramp which makes jobs like this much easier.

Here is the thread on how I did mine: Gearbox Fluid Change

I think that covers it pretty well, just ask if you need to know anything else.

 

[Dave Bailey]

Dave,

I have to admit I do have my own four-poster car ramp which makes jobs like this much easier.

Here is the thread on how I did mine: Gearbox Fluid Change

I think that covers it pretty well, just ask if you need to know anything else.

That's wonderful Jimmy, thanks. Only two things to ask, firstly - do you have the part number for the dipstick? Secondly, did you refill the box through the dipstick tube, or is there a hidden bung somewhere? It looks like it'll take an age to shove 7.5l of oil through that skinny tube...

Cheers,

Dave

 

[jaymanek]

You do refill through the tube and when you do it, do it very slowly.

jay

 

[Dave Bailey]

I now have the parts....

Dave,

I have to admit I do have my own four-poster car ramp which makes jobs like this much easier.

Here is the thread on how I did mine: Gearbox Fluid Change

I think that covers it pretty well, just ask if you need to know anything else.

Hi Jimmy,

I have the parts, bought from the local MB emporium for a total of £86.83 inc the dreaded VAT. So I'm ready to steam in and attack the gearbox. What torque value did you tighten the sump screws and convertor plug to? I'd like to avoid ATF leaks and the possibility of the torque convertor plug flying out if at all possible.
Also, how long did it take you to fill the 'box? Just trying to get an idea of how much time to put aside for the job.

Many thanks,

Dave

 

[Dieselman]

Hi Jimmy,

I have the parts, bought from the local MB emporium for a total of £86.83 inc the dreaded VAT. So I'm ready to steam in and attack the gearbox. What torque value did you tighten the sump screws and convertor plug to? I'd like to avoid ATF leaks and the possibility of the torque convertor plug flying out if at all possible.
Also, how long did it take you to fill the 'box? Just trying to get an idea of how much time to put aside for the job.

Many thanks,

Dave

Oil pan drain is 10 lb Ft, 14 Nm

T. C. drain is 12 Lb Ft, 16 Nm

Sump bolts are 6 Lb Ft, 8 Nm.

Use a small funnel and pour down the side and filling the box wont take long. It will need 7.5 Litres nearly exactly.

Fill with 7 litres then take the car for a drive holding it in low gear to heat the fluid. When the gearbox is hot (80+) park the car and cycle the selector through all the gears then back to P. Check the level with the engine still running. Use the 80 marks on the stick.

Be carfeul when removing the sump as it will stick then suddenly drop off splashing oil everywhere. Tap it sideways to break the seal when undoing the bolts.

Always fit a new rubber gasket to avoid leaks, they're only a fiver.

In reality first time you should allow a couple of hours for the job.

 

[Dave Bailey]

Oil pan drain is 10 lb Ft, 14 Nm

T. C. drain is 12 Lb Ft, 16 Nm

Sump bolts are 6 Lb Ft, 8 Nm.

Use a small funnel and pour down the side and filling the box wont take long. It will need 7.5 Litres nearly exactly.

Fill with 7 litres then take the car for a drive holding it in low gear to heat the fluid. When the gearbox is hot (80+) park the car and cycle the selector through all the gears then back to P. Check the level with the engine still running. Use the 80 marks on the stick.

Be carfeul when removing the sump as it will stick then suddenly drop off splashing oil everywhere. Tap it sideways to break the seal when undoing the bolts.

Always fit a new rubber gasket to avoid leaks, they're only a fiver.

In reality first time you should allow a couple of hours for the job.

Nice one Dieselman, thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Dave

 

[Dieselman]

Nice one Dieselman, thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Dave

Anytime.

Ps there will be about a litre of fluid left in the sump on removal so be careful also forget using a drain can for the fluid use a bucket and drain the converter first as it holds more.

Go on then!

 

[Dave Bailey]

Anytime.

Ps there will be about a litre of fluid left in the sump on removal so be careful also forget using a drain can for the fluid use a bucket and drain the converter first as it holds more.

Go on then!

Job's a good 'un......

Everything went precisely as you & Jimmy described. I did have one small problem though. One of the sump pan screws had seized up. This meant that patience and a lot of penetrating fluid was required to free it. But free off it did & everything is now ok. Luckily, I had a spark plug change to do as well, hence there was enough to keep my attention in between squirt & twist attempts. As it goes, the 'box and TC took exactly 7.5l of fluid to bring the level to the 80 deg C mark on the stick.
The difference chaning the oil and filter has made to the way the car drives in enormous. I know others have said so, but I wasn't expecting the improvement to be so marked. This is a job well worth doing in my opinion.

All the best,

Dave