Dec, the link works but the images in them are not showing. Television, thanks for your suggestions. At this point I am preparing for the worst. The mechanic did say he did manage to get to a blue and white wire on the rear driver door that didn't have any power going to it. Anyone gone down this path know to give a hint what to focus on next?
Automatic Rear Windows not working
Anyone else unable to see the pictures? Here…http://homepage.eircom.net/~decdec/index.html sorry, but I have not put up a web site before and am a complete amateur in this regard.
Klee
If you PM me your email address I can send them to you, as it might take me some time to sort out this link. You will find them beneficial as we have similar cars.
I have heard others say this as well, that two windows fail at the same time, this may be an illusion because what may actually have happened is that one window failed on Monday and the other window failed on Friday and the owner is not aware of this.
It is not until Saturday that he discover that one of the window is not working so he checks the other window and he find that it not working either, so he come to the conclusion that both window must have failed at the same time on Saturday.
I think these motors just wear out after 9 or 10 years, drivers side is used a lot more than rear windows, yet the all seem to have the same life span. I think the failure is down to the brush springs weakening over time, this could explain the intermitted nature of the fault, one day the are working and the next day the are not. And the theory about a link with temperature change as mentioned may be a contributing factor.
Dec
Klee
If you PM me your email address I can send them to you, as it might take me some time to sort out this link. You will find them beneficial as we have similar cars.
I have heard others say this as well, that two windows fail at the same time, this may be an illusion because what may actually have happened is that one window failed on Monday and the other window failed on Friday and the owner is not aware of this.
It is not until Saturday that he discover that one of the window is not working so he checks the other window and he find that it not working either, so he come to the conclusion that both window must have failed at the same time on Saturday.
I think these motors just wear out after 9 or 10 years, drivers side is used a lot more than rear windows, yet the all seem to have the same life span. I think the failure is down to the brush springs weakening over time, this could explain the intermitted nature of the fault, one day the are working and the next day the are not. And the theory about a link with temperature change as mentioned may be a contributing factor.
Dec
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
But it is all so simple with a volt meter, it tells you all you want to know.
With electricity you can poke around or look at it, but nothing happens, nothing moves, but the meter tells all
With electricity you can poke around or look at it, but nothing happens, nothing moves, but the meter tells all
OK time for update and new problem (! arrgh). The car returned last week after a long diagnostic session tracing wires from door to centre console switches to black control unit box (202 820 09 26) in the boot. Taking the door motors apart he managed to clean and lub and they work. Rear passenger door windows not as smooth going up but works ok (suspect motor on last leg?). Rear driver however could only go down not up. His tracing led to replacing the control unit in boot with 2nd hand and it all works now. The B9 pin the culprit. Without schematics for the control unit I didn't ask what B9 was designed to do.
What does not work as before: The closing of windows and sunroof when central locking is engaged. On this car they operate together with central locking. They all closed automatically whenever centrally locked. I was never able to say leave the sunroof tilted if I engaged the MB central locking via main flipout key fob. Symptoms now: At times it proceeds to close the windows and sunroof then stops. Unlock, open driver door, close and central lock again and it sometimes closes them all or again starts and stops. I think its like a timing thing. I think the timing of when and for how long power is supplied needs to be configured. I am almost sure that before, the sunroof would initiate closing only say 1 sec after doors locked. Now it seems to initiate at the same time doors lock and then stops.
Pls anyone gone down this route know - what controls this c/locking+windows+sunroof? Are there resettable settings? Or is it all preconfigured in that control box in the boot - ie the 2nd hand one is no good? Is it one of those things go straight to MB dealership-only?
Help!
What does not work as before: The closing of windows and sunroof when central locking is engaged. On this car they operate together with central locking. They all closed automatically whenever centrally locked. I was never able to say leave the sunroof tilted if I engaged the MB central locking via main flipout key fob. Symptoms now: At times it proceeds to close the windows and sunroof then stops. Unlock, open driver door, close and central lock again and it sometimes closes them all or again starts and stops. I think its like a timing thing. I think the timing of when and for how long power is supplied needs to be configured. I am almost sure that before, the sunroof would initiate closing only say 1 sec after doors locked. Now it seems to initiate at the same time doors lock and then stops.
Pls anyone gone down this route know - what controls this c/locking+windows+sunroof? Are there resettable settings? Or is it all preconfigured in that control box in the boot - ie the 2nd hand one is no good? Is it one of those things go straight to MB dealership-only?
Help!
grober
MB Master
Are you sure your batteries in your remote are OK since you need to keep sending the signal continuously to get the everything to close. If the continuous signal from the remote stops during the "close all" period things will stop. This might happen if the batteries are a bit low and the signal strength drops or stops even if you are pressing the button.
Thanks grober. I have tried your suggestion already - keeping the central locking button depressed for about 5 secs - red light on door handle and rear view mirror blinks away indicating receiving signals - they continuously blink for as long as I hold the button down. I think the blinking pattern is different? I don't think they are saying battery is weak - I am aware of MB using those same LEDs to denote battery weak. Still the windows and sunroof does not close up as before. I definitely haven't removed my thumb from the button prematurely. I will change the battery just in case.
More pointers please...
More pointers please...
If all windows are not working consistently and properly, all of the time, in your case you say that “Rear passenger door windows not as smooth going up but works ok (suspect motor on last leg?).” this would seem to me that you are correct in thinking that it is on its last legs. Lubricate the window glass guide channels with WD40 just to eliminate this as the possible cause of the window not going up smoothly.
My experience is that all my windows/sunroof did close when car locked with key fob just like yours but when the rear passenger window developed a fault MB told me the “automatic closure” would not work until I corrected the fault or replace the regulator and when I did this I should bring the car in to have the “automatic closure” feature reset on the diagnostics.
I have replaced the regulator with a new one but I have not had the “automatic closure” reset yet as I need a better reason than this to bring the car to MB dealer, in the meantime I can live without this feature. By the way did you ever get those pictures I sent to you by email?
Dec
Dec, thanks for replying. Just for clarity what is this regulator you refer to? I will lubricate the guides as you suggest - though was told to look for silicon based? Wouldn't WD40 smear?
I felt some ease after reading your post re MB's feature reset. I am so hopeful the 'automatic closure' as you say is simply a feature reset on the diagnostics. I will ask the local MB for similar advise and costs and maybe some of that silicon lubricant!
I felt some ease after reading your post re MB's feature reset. I am so hopeful the 'automatic closure' as you say is simply a feature reset on the diagnostics. I will ask the local MB for similar advise and costs and maybe some of that silicon lubricant!
Got the silicone lub and went all out with it on the guide rails. Yes it does help ... I can see not so smooth get smoother but not completely cured. Helps but no cigar.
And now the sunroof has closed intermittently like it did before - it closes after about a 1-2 sec delay after central locking. Of course this was short lived cos the next time it promptly forgot that behaviour and closed immediately when the locks go down. But wait it also continues to have mind of its own and chooses NOT to close too. No consistency. CLose like before, close immediately, and not closing! Whats happening here?
Same goes for the windows. Is it mocking me?!
And now the sunroof has closed intermittently like it did before - it closes after about a 1-2 sec delay after central locking. Of course this was short lived cos the next time it promptly forgot that behaviour and closed immediately when the locks go down. But wait it also continues to have mind of its own and chooses NOT to close too. No consistency. CLose like before, close immediately, and not closing! Whats happening here?
Same goes for the windows. Is it mocking me?!
Sorry Klee I completely missed your post on the 7th , silicone is the correct stuff to use I suggested WD40 as this was just to eliminate the glass guides to see if the were causing the fault.
I think one of your windows still has a fault and this is interfering with the automatic closure, which won’t work properly if any of the windows and particularly the rear passenger window is not working consistently. Do the windows /sunroof work o.k. Via the ordinary switches?
Dec
I think one of your windows still has a fault and this is interfering with the automatic closure, which won’t work properly if any of the windows and particularly the rear passenger window is not working consistently. Do the windows /sunroof work o.k. Via the ordinary switches?
Dec
Dec, yes the windows/sunroof all working when activated via the manual switches on the central console in addition to rear windows' switches on the rear passenger door. The only one not 100% as said before was the rear passenger-side window which is not smooth like the rest - silicone lub helped alleviate but not cure.
Do you think the MB automatic closure controller is that sensitive? (Btw thks but just to let you know I didn't get the pics)
Do you think the MB automatic closure controller is that sensitive? (Btw thks but just to let you know I didn't get the pics)
I sent the pic that time you PM’d me. I bet your email provider suspected the might be some kind of virus and rejected them.
I think you have exactly the same problem I had, i.e. rear passenger window was faulty, apparently this particular window is involved or controlled in some way with a CANBUS if the motor is not working properly then the automatic closure won’t work either, that is what I have been told by MB
I think in your case while the window is working, although not smoothly, it may be because (and this is my pet theory) the spring that holds the brushes to the commutator have become weak and are not touching the commutator all of the time, if there is a gap between the brush and commutator the brush will arc and this is why the are not moving smoothley because the are going on/off for a split second.
In short I think you need a replacement regulator. The rear window regulator consists of a motor and lifting mechanism by means of a cable. The motor is part of the mechanism and can’t be bought separately.
You should ask the dealer’s opinion on this as I think the non-smoothness of the window is down to a motor fault and the only solution is a replacement with a new or old one.
P.S. read post #29 again on page 2.
Dec
I think you have exactly the same problem I had, i.e. rear passenger window was faulty, apparently this particular window is involved or controlled in some way with a CANBUS if the motor is not working properly then the automatic closure won’t work either, that is what I have been told by MB
I think in your case while the window is working, although not smoothly, it may be because (and this is my pet theory) the spring that holds the brushes to the commutator have become weak and are not touching the commutator all of the time, if there is a gap between the brush and commutator the brush will arc and this is why the are not moving smoothley because the are going on/off for a split second.
In short I think you need a replacement regulator. The rear window regulator consists of a motor and lifting mechanism by means of a cable. The motor is part of the mechanism and can’t be bought separately.
You should ask the dealer’s opinion on this as I think the non-smoothness of the window is down to a motor fault and the only solution is a replacement with a new or old one.
P.S. read post #29 again on page 2.
Dec
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