Best method for bedding-in brakes

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Sorry Pete

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Right, so I just got a little curious as to whether there is any truth to this. They seem to be motorsport-orientated and thought it might apply to street cars as well. Or is the whole thing utter tosh?

After having had new discs and pads, it took around 300 miles of normal driving (I'm light on both brakes and throttle) before brake feel and performance returned.

Would I or anyone else for that matter, benefit from the recommended 8 60-10mph hard braking cycles?
 
What's absolutely true is that new brakes must bed in in order to be effective. How you do it divides opinion.

Whether you acclerate the process with a few firm stops as described - or let normal driving take care of it - is down to personal preference. I prefer a mix of both!!
 
I just drive the car and what ever happens happens:D



Lynall
 
my performace disks and ceramic pads i brought for for my gixer thou (big loud and scary bike!) came with the same sort of advice, apparently, the heat cycles condition the disks, and the hard application scrub in the pads and match themto the surface of the disk.
 
Thanks, at least it seems there's some substance to their claims. Next time I get new brakes, I'll know what to do!
 
Right, so I just got a little curious as to whether there is any truth to this. They seem to be motorsport-orientated and thought it might apply to street cars as well. Or is the whole thing utter tosh?

After having had new discs and pads, it took around 300 miles of normal driving (I'm light on both brakes and throttle) before brake feel and performance returned.

Would I or anyone else for that matter, benefit from the recommended 8 60-10mph hard braking cycles?

IMO It does make a difference. I do it sort of different though:
3x 80 - 20km/hr with moderate pressure
3x 100 - 20km/hr with hard pressure (w/o lockup).

Seems to work for me, especially with the pagid blue I still use on the Seat.
 
This is a thread which interests me because I'm just aboout to fit some new discs and pads to my Honda Accord.

1) Would the bedding in process be different if discs are not being replaced compared with if they are being replaced? I intend to fit new discs to the rear but not to the front.

2) Even though new pads might not reach full efficiency until properly bedded in, is there a danger that new pads might not pass an mot efficiency test?
 
I do it for new pads & disc or just pads.

Not sure what mot is like in the UK but for our equivalent (I live in Portugal), you would need almost no brakes or a big bias diference between brakes on same axle (aka front left vs front right or rear left vs. rear right). for failure to occur.
 
Good stuff. I'm guessing this method works for standard pads/discs as well as performance ones. I think the salient point is that this method 'burns out the resins' of new pads. Nice to hear your views.
 
Bedding in is required whether replacing just pads, discs & pads, performance or standard.

In the simplest terms your aim is to maximise the contact area between the disc and pad, by removing any high spots which might prevent or slow down full contact. You're also removing the outer layer to get to fresh material beneath.

Both things improve braking efficiency. Brakes are like a couple - it's not until pad and disc become intimate that they become a proper union. Ahem :eek:
 
2) Even though new pads might not reach full efficiency until properly bedded in, is there a danger that new pads might not pass an mot efficiency test?


Definately, I changed front discs & pads & the brakes were useless at even 10mph until bedded in.

Russ
 
BD is correct!

I'll do 2 or 3 stops from 30MPH down to about 2MPH WITHOUT STOPPING!
'Then 2 or 3 stops from 50MPH down to about 15MPH WITHOUT STOPPING!
'Then 2 or 3 stops from 80MPH down to about 25MPH WITHOUT STOPPING!
AND be kind to the Brake system for the rest of the day...No ABS "Panics".

This allows materiel transfer between the Pads and Discs ("Bedding In").

Easy, Fun.
 
Right, so I just got a little curious as to whether there is any truth to this.

I've had mixed results in the past with new brakes, but when I put new front disks and pads on earlier this year, the link above was the exact reference I used. I followed that process and I was very pleased I did. I could really feel the brakes starting to bite properly.

I had a bit of smoke and a burning smell after the first few hard 'stops' but that was just surface contamination, maybe brake cleaner, burning off (I think).
 
Hmmm , I've heard all of these 'theories' before but have never bothered going through the rigmarole .

Normally , if fitting new discs , I just clean the grease off with petrol before fitting - don't worry it will all evaporate away long before you are ready to use the brakes .

Once everything is back together , I just apply firm pressure to the pedal whilst stopped just to push the pistons and pads out into contact with the discs .

I then go for a short drive and brake gently until I feel the brakes working .

I don't go doing hard stops as I can't see that doing much other than glazing the pads !
 
the point is more to do with the heat cycles that are caused, and the inital wareing away of microscopic high and low spots, a bit like braking in a new cam shaft.

if you dont do this, the brakes will just become better over a longer period of time, but may never achive max performance, just mabe 98% lol.
 
I thought this went out years ago except for competition only pads.

I did this exact sequence in my Mk1 Mexico when I changed to DS11/VG95 pads/shoes (ahh, memories, memories). The brakes were always fantastic but I can remember the fright of seeing discs bright orange hot and having to pump the pedal for the first stop after they'd cooled down!!

NormanC
 

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