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Boot opening

rk100

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
543
Car
W215 CL65 AMG & W124 E500
Hi all, some advice please

Just tried to open my 2004 CL boot from the key fob and button on driver door and it won't open (car has opening and close feature). The soft close function on the doors also does not work now. When I lock with the fob the door does not lock but will with the key. I put the key in the boot lock but it doesn't seem to want to open. I have just read through some of these problems on the US forums. Just wondering if anyone on here has experienced these problems and has any solutions.

Thanks
 
Hi all, some advice please

Just tried to open my 2004 CL boot from the key fob and button on driver door and it won't open (car has opening and close feature). The soft close function on the doors also does not work now. When I lock with the fob the door does not lock but will with the key. I put the key in the boot lock but it doesn't seem to want to open. I have just read through some of these problems on the US forums. Just wondering if anyone on here has experienced these problems and has any solutions.

Thanks


Hello rk100,

If you can find the time to read through the following thread from one of our US members questions on here regarding a similar issue, then you will find the answer. I just haven’t got the time anymore to go through it all again. Before you do anything though, just check fuse number 62, it will have blown, it’s a yellow 20 amp fuse in the rear fusebox behind the drivers seat. This is the in-line circuit fuse that provides the power to the PSE module.

Regards,

Dash1

Link:- http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/175804-power-trunk-problem.html
 
Dash1 said:
Hello rk100, If you can find the time to read through the following thread from one of our US members questions on here regarding a similar issue, then you will find the answer. I just haven’t got the time anymore to go through it all again. Before you do anything though, just check fuse number 62, it will have blown, it’s a yellow 20 amp fuse in the rear fusebox behind the drivers seat. This is the in-line circuit fuse that provides the power to the PSE module. Regards, Dash1 Link:- http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/175804-power-trunk-problem.html

Thanks Dash1

I will have a good read through this.
 
Dash1

Just pulled fuse 62 and it was blown as you said. If I just replace this will it automatically blow again? until the real problem is fixed ?
 
Dash1

Just pulled fuse 62 and it was blown as you said. If I just replace this will it automatically blow again? until the real problem is fixed ?


Hello rk100,

Not necessarily, it may be just one of those occasions that the PSE pump motor has drawn a little more current than it normally does. Replace the fuse and see what happens. Under no circumstances whatsoever should you put a higher rated fuse in there than what it is rated at - 20 amps maximum, take no notice whatsoever if anyone tries to tell you any differently, it isn’t their car. If it blows again when you put another 20 amp fuse in, then the issue must be investigated to find the fault

Best Regards,

[FONT=&quot]Dash1[/FONT]
 
Thanks Dash1, your help is appreciated.

I will replace with a 20amp fuse in the first instance and see how it goes.
 
Ok so I replaced the 20amp fuse. The central locking and door soft closers worked but as soon as I pressed the boot on the fob all went again checked and fuse blown again. So I guess I really need to get the the boot open with the key. Does it look like it is the pump?
 
Hello rk100,

Once again, not necessarily, lets not be too hasty and condemn the PSE pump unless we have to. As you say though, you will need to open the boot lid to gain access to the PSE module anyway; also, you will need to evaluate if the boot locking mechanism (vacuum/pressure capsule) has developed a leak, which is causing the pump to run longer than it should do. Once you open the boot lid you can remove the n/side boot trim to gain access to the PSE module. When you do have access to it, with the ignition switched to the “off” position, remove all the connectors from the PSE module, now replace the 20 amp fuse again and see if it blows, if it doesn’t, then we know that the integrity of the wiring loom is OK up to the PSE module itself.

I am not sure what your electrical skills are like, are you up to the task of dismantling the pump if necessary. Also, we can disable the vacuum/pressure line first to the boot lock and then try the functionality of all the other functions on the PSE system to see if everything else is working as they should. If they are all functioning properly, then it’s probably a leak on the locking mechanism, which is quite easy to repair. From your post anyway, you stated it only blows the fuse on attempting to open the boot lid, am I right in assuming that’s the only thing not working now when you replaced the fuse.

When you do have access to the PSE module, look on the top row on the grey manifold (vacuum/pressure lines) and you will see the letters marked as “HECK”, it’s the third one along from left to right. Remove this vacuum/pressure line and then block the port off on the manifold with a piece of rubber tubing with one end blocked off and try the system again with the boot lid still open, (please do not try and close the boot lid at this stage until you connect the vacuum line back on to the PSE module) you should now hear the PSE pump run for several seconds only if its OK, if not and the fuse blows again, then we will have to investigate inside the PSE module itself, lets cross that bridge when we come to it, for now though try the following suggestions that I made.

I finish work tomorrow until the first week in January but I will only be able to come on here at the earliest now on Saturday evening. If you have managed to look in to the issue, then please post any question or results you may have. As you probably read on the other thread I guided you to, my father recently died a couple of months ago now and I still have quite a lot of work to do in the meantime in sorting all his affairs out and disposing of his vehicles etc, so I spend very little time on here anyway, but I will try and come back on and help if I can.

Best Regards,

[FONT=&quot]Dash1[/FONT]
 
Last edited:
Dash1

You are a gent. Thank you for the detailed advice.

Like yourself things are quite hectic for me at the minute also and getting time to do anything is nearly impossible!. When I get a chance I will try to get the boot open in the first instance and follow your instructions above.

I would not be brilliant at electrics but I will give anything a go. Yes when I put in the new fuse the soft closers on the doors worked it was just when I tried the boot on the key fob than it went again and then all would not work as before e.g. door closers, central locking etc.

Thanks RK100
 
Ok, so not sure what is going on with the boot.

Got it open with the blade key and it opened fine and then I replaced the 20amp fuse again. Pushed the automatic close button and the boot closed fine. Pushed the key fob and it open no bother and closed again with no issues. Soft closers on doors and central locking all working fine!

At the minute I have an extension lead cable coming out of the boot for the trickle charger I have on the battery. Not sure if the boot closing on the lead caused the initial issues.
 
Ok, so not sure what is going on with the boot.

Got it open with the blade key and it opened fine and then I replaced the 20amp fuse again. Pushed the automatic close button and the boot closed fine. Pushed the key fob and it open no bother and closed again with no issues. Soft closers on doors and central locking all working fine!

At the minute I have an extension lead cable coming out of the boot for the trickle charger I have on the battery. Not sure if the boot closing on the lead caused the initial issues.


Hello rk100,

Thank you very much for the updated reply. I’ve posted early today as I won’t be able to come on here this evening as promised, my mother took ill yesterday and was rushed in to hospital with pneumonia so I have a 200 mile round trip this evening. With the greatest respect, as with any type of vehicle diagnostics, I can only give you an accurate answer based upon any information that you say and the symptoms that you describe, its surprising what difference a little bit more information can make and do in light of what you’ve already stated previously. From the additional details that you now describe, it would appear that you had a totally different issue with your PSE control module compared to the one our US member has with his CL55 – the boot lid issue with his car is with regards to the raise/lower feature. The PSE control module on his car is working in as much as it is actually activating the boot locking catch mechanism, where yours was not, but the power to the hydraulic pump motor on his car to raise/lower the boot lid isn’t functioning, where yours is. I am still waiting for a reply from Kevin before we can go any further with his issues.

Anyway, to put things in to a clearer perspective, there are two perfectly valid theories and reasons here now based upon what you now describe, the symptoms are very similar, but the issues are totally different. In the interests of brevity, I’ll try and keep it as simple as is possible which in turn will give you a better appreciation and understanding as to what went wrong and how the system actually functions. These cars are extremely complex at the best of times and the PSE system is interlinked with several other modules on the car, as you will see as we go along. To fully appreciate what went wrong and how, you would need to fully understand how the locking mechanism actually works in conjunction with the PSE control module.

First Scenario and Observations - On the basis of what you now say, it would appear that the PSE pump motor had been running for far longer than it should have done and therefore the higher current limit exceeded the 20 amp fuse threshold – fact, it must be so as the fuse was blown when you checked it, not only did it blow in the first instance, it did it a second time when you replaced it with another fuse. Also, bear this in mind from what you said from an earlier post – everything else worked up to the point when you tried the boot lock again. So, why was this, well, if you think about it and from what you have now described, if the cable from the extension lead was indeed trapped (sandwiched) between the boot lid and the lower boot aperture, then the boot locking mechanism (locking catch and striker plate) would have been under extreme tension (strained and jammed tight shut if you like) as it closed tightly with the addition of the now power closure feature coming in to play (the two locks at either side of the boot lid as viewed with the boot open) and the boot lid fully closing home in to the second latched position – there are two separate functions here controlled at different times by the PSE control module based upon data received from the rear SAM control module which monitors the microswitch position in the locking mechanism, one part of the PSE control module solenoid valves switch off as the other one switches on.

When the microswitch is triggered on the opening command following disengagement of the locking mechanism, the rear SAM control module sends this data to the PSE control module and the ATA module, (anti-theft alarm) the alarm for the boot would now be deactivated and the PSE module switches the solenoid valve on the boot catch to the open position. When you pressed the remote key fob or the boot release switch from inside the car, although they were actually functioning, the vacuum assist from the PSE pump was insufficient to act on the diaphragm/linkage inside the vacuum chamber to release the boot locking mechanism under tension, therefore, the pump continued to run because the microswitch had not been triggered with the release of the catch on the striker plate to switch it off. To prove this theory out, then go to the rear of the car and physically try to pull up on the boot lid as you operate the remote boot release from the key fob – it wont open the boot lid because of the extreme lifting force you are now applying to the locking mechanism and because the vacuum is insufficient to act upon the diaphragm, which in turn is attached to the linkage and connected to the lock which in effect is being jammed, the same scenario as the electrical cable being trapped between the boot lid and its aperture.

Second Scenario and Observation. The PSE control module has a time-out facility that disables this boot open feature if the pump motor is running for a longer than specified limit. If the PSE module recognises this scenario on two or more occasions, then the PSE module is disabled and a fault is logged within the module for interrogation at a later date. This is how the system actually functions - The locking actuator for the boot lid lock receives vacuum assistance from the PSE control modules pump, which in turn opens the boot lid lock if its not been secured with the cylinder lock in the 90 degree position, that’s why its important to turn the blade key through 90 degrees in the anticlockwise direction so the key slot is vertical, the remote boot opening will now function in this position only.

The power-locking feature (soft close) only closes the boot lid completely once the first catch on the locking mechanism has been engaged, the microswitch in the locking mechanism is triggered and is recognised by the rear SAM control module. The rear SAM control module then sends a signal over the CAN bus to the PSE module as to the status of the microswitch, the PSE control module now actuates the solenoid valve on the boot lid lock and the solenoid valve inside the PSE module now switches the pneumatic line to the power locking pneumatic actuator and then the power locking actuator for the boot lid lock receives pressure from the PSE control module to fully close the boot lid. The boot lid is then finally moved to the fully closed position, which you will be able to see being drawn down in to the lock if you look at it from the rear of the car. The air pressure from the PSE module is finally reduced when the boot lock is latched in the second position only and the system is then considered at rest - boot now fully closed

The PSE control module actually switches off when the maximum pressure for power locking is reached or a certain safety time limit has expired. The safety time factor depends upon the battery voltage, from 9 volts to 13 volts and the time duration is between 9 and 15 seconds. The boot lid can only be locked/unlocked again by the power lock/unlock feature after the PSE control module has been disconnected from the main power supply. To reset the PSE module, which I have explained and mentioned in my other posts on the other thread, requires that the power source be removed from the PSE module for several minutes, which you have just done by removing fuse number 62. When you did eventually put the fuse back in yesterday, the PSE module was reset and therefore lost its short-term memory from its power disconnect and from the time-out facility, this is a unique safety feature of the PSE module to prevent damage occurring to the pump motor.

You may not realise it at the moment, but that one “key” piece of additional information regarding the trapped electrical extension lead has saved us both an awful lot of time here, however, when you would have come to do the test that I outlined in my previous post, we would have found nothing wrong with the pump, which would have led us to the next check on the vacuum capsule at the rear of the boot lock. Also, we would have found nothing wrong there either, so thanks again for picking up on that point and mentioning the electrical extension lead, we can both enjoy Christmas now, sort of anyway.

Hope this information helps you understand it a little easier, without me actually seeing and looking at the car, then I personally would just see how it goes, the chances are that this isn’t going to happen again because hopefully you are not going to trap the cable again, are you. On another note, if you must connect a battery tender/charger to the vehicle, then route the fly lead set (they should have come with the battery tender/charger) from the battery so as it comes out through a rubber grommet and underneath the vehicle near the rear bumper, that’s what I did with my CL (there is provision at the side of the battery near the rear back panel to do this) and still do with my other vehicles if I know they will be standing for any length or period. If they are being used on a regular basis, then just disconnect the tender/charger fly leads from the battery.

My apologies anyway for the lengthy post, but we are dealing with an extremely complex car here and I have only touched on one element of that system. If you do have any further questions, then please post on the thread, as I am always happy to answer them. If I do get time later on this evening when I get home from the hospital then I will come back on here, failing that, then I will come on here sometime tomorrow to see if you do need anything else. You may need to read over the post several times to get the full benefit as to what does what and how. If you do get the time though, then read the other thread, which has a similar amount of detail and you may well benefit from it.

Anyway, all the very best for the Christmas and New Year period.

Best Regards,

[FONT=&quot]Dash1[/FONT]
 
Dash1

Firstly I hope all is well with your mother and she is recovering.

Thanks again for the very detailed post it is very good for a layperson like myself to get a good understanding of how these systems in my car actually works. I have read over it a few times just to get my head around it. Your knowledge on these issues are mind blogging! Is this the type of work you do?

I have had no issues since I removed the cable - trust me that won't happen again. I wasn't aware of the grommet for routing the charger - I will look into this.

Thanks again and hope all is well with your mother. Happy Christmas and new year to yourself and if I have any updates I will post them here.
rk100
 

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