C124 300CE water pump variants

[derin100]

I need to buy a new water pump for my C124 300CE ( Chassis number:
WDB1240502B290228 ).
However, mine seems slightly different to the ones I'm seeing online and also to a spare that I have from a W201 2.6 engine. The one on my 300CE appears to only differ in that the opening/port you see just directly to the left of the pulley in the link below is closed on my car (i.e that opening isn't there):
MERCEDES E CLASS E280 E320 W124 W210 NEW WATER PUMP | eBay

I don't want to pay crazy maindealer prices but I also don't want to end up just ordering the wrong one and getting one with that port 'open' as I already have a perfectly good M103 water pump like that for a 190E 2.6.

Can someone point me in the right direction or help?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[John Jones Jr]

You could have taken a few quid from me as I'd have sworn the 2.6 & 3.0 M103's would have had the exact same pump. In other words I'm no help to you at all

 

[neilrr]

I replaced the water pump on my old 190E 2.6. It's different from the w/p on a 3.0 M103.

I got one from ECP for v. litle money.

HTH.

 

[derin100]

They appear to be exactly the same except that the circled port in the picture below is blanked off (i.e the casing is solid) on the one on my 300CE.

 

[neilrr]

The H2O pumps are different part #s for the 2.6 & 3.0 M103. Call an MB Parts Dept. with your VIN tomorrow.

It was about 4 years ago I did this job but IIRC it's to do with the area where the pump meets the block.

 

[grober]

The pump you have is probably a A1032002601 REPLACED by A1032003701 The EPC notes the replacement also requires A1042030802 which I assume is a blanking off piece for that extra port?????

 

[kth286]

The pump choice is a bit of a minefield, depending which generation 103 engine you have.

Pre/post 89 is one significant change point, BUT also depends on the exact engine number, as there were changes.

I just had a quick look and it seems that the pump part number has change at least 4 times.

Full VIN and engine number to the dealer is the only sure way to determine.

Because of the above your chances of getting the correct aftermarket pump is going to be a very trying business, but I would only fitting Merc dealer pumps anyway.

A point of interest is that Merc pumps are designed to be rebuilt and separate parts were recently available when I enquired for someone.

So if the impeller has gone for instance, just buy a new impeller.

 

[stwat]

Give Wunderpartz a ring in the morning 01302 351 421. From your reg and/or chassis number they will be able to supply you with the correct part.

Mention the 190 forum and you will get a healthy discount on postage too.

 

[derin100]

Many thanks for all the replies guys!

I've been in touch with Wunderpartz for advice who have also told me I'll probably need that extra part (A1042030802). I've looked up what that is and it looks like a piece of metal pipe. Maybe that can then be blocked off.

I'm going to leave the job to my Merc Indie anyway as having read up about it, it's not a job I particularly fancy doing myself. I'll let him remove the old pump and then see what's needed from there.

Many thanks again!

 

[derin100]

The pump choice is a bit of a minefield, depending which generation 103 engine you have.

Pre/post 89 is one significant change point, BUT also depends on the exact engine number, as there were changes.

I just had a quick look and it seems that the pump part number has change at least 4 times.

Full VIN and engine number to the dealer is the only sure way to determine.

Because of the above your chances of getting the correct aftermarket pump is going to be a very trying business, but I would only fitting Merc dealer pumps anyway.

A point of interest is that Merc pumps are designed to be rebuilt and separate parts were recently available when I enquired for someone.

So if the impeller has gone for instance, just buy a new impeller.

I take your point...but the trouble might be cost at the Maindealer. As I already have a perfectly good, almost new looking genuine one sitting in the garage from a W201 2.6 which appears to differ only in respect of that port it would be good if I could use that one.

If not maybe your suggestion of just being able to replace the relevant worn or defective part of the water pump would also be the way to go. That's really good advice!

The renovation of this 300CE has already cost me circa £10,000...so if I can minimise further costs by using one of the strategies above it would be useful.

Thanks

 

[trapperjohn]

Rock and a hard place Derin100. Some of that 10k must have been spent at your dealers and usually the part department are so much better at helping folk than elsewhere in the dealership. As kth286 says, chassis number and engine number to the dealer and ask a. About repair kits and then b. Cost of a new pump.

You have some idea then. Wunderpartz as stwat says will help in any situation.

 

[derin100]

Yes, I have a good relationship with the parts chap at my local Maindealer so I'm sure he'll be able to help.

As for the car itself, the £10K includes the £2K I paid for it in the first place. You may remember this thread?..Which was 2 years ago in about 3 months time!

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/spot...-ce300-auto-pillarless-coupe-huge-spec-4.html

The faults I'd found at that point were really nothing in comparison to what I've had to do since! This will become apparent once (and if, at this rate) the car is ever completed. I'll put it up on my website with a detailed write-up then.

I will have had to go through virtually every inch of this car from the very front to the very back replacing/repairing/renewing/rectifying! By every inch, I mean literally from the very fore-most point of the car (i.e the broken front number plate) to the very rear-most point (i.e the boot Star which which the ignorant tool of a previous owner had even managed to put on the wrong way round!). I know those two points on the map sound very 'trivial'...believe me, all the stations inbetween weren't!

At the time (at the end of that thread) Billy said: "Don't give up".

Well, I didn't...but by all sense and reckoning I really should have! Only a madman would have continued

 

[BillyW124]

hats off to you mate, i remember your thread and remember your car. You are not alone i'm one of those mad men as well! once you have completed the car you'll feel such a sense of satisfaction that i dont think money will come into the equation.

..mad men only do this type of thing once.

 

[derin100]

Thanks Billy!

If you look here though....you'll see I've been pretty mad quite a few times over ...but this is definitely going to be the last time!

BMW Classics Ezine - News, Reviews & Cars for Sale

Particularly check out the page on the Pagoda (click on the 4th from top in the thumbnails on the left).

Here was another 'mad' one that I did a few years ago (beware...it's a BMW! ):

Before: BMW Classics Ezine - Photo Gallery

During: BMW Classics Ezine - Photo Gallery

After: BMW Classics Ezine - Photo Gallery


But, for one reason and another, the 300CE will have been by far the longest and hardest...and last!

 

[trapperjohn]

What Billy says and cant wait to see it. Hmmm - Going past Shropshire next weekend!!

 

[derin100]

You're welcome to pop in for a cuppa, John,if you're passing this way!

The car isn't finished yet but it's starting to look the part.

I just got it back from my paint place yesterday. It's a long time ago now so probably no one remembers this but the car had just had two new front wings fitted along with a repaint of both sides (above the Sacco panels) and the bonnet when I bought it?

Well, I have painstakingly repainted all the Saccos, sill covers and bumpers myself (put a new front bumper black insert in as well because the old one was scuffed...turned out to be a bit of a nightmare to get the old one off actually as the three bolts at each end were rusted on and I had to cut the plastic of the old insert out around them to get it off). Even the boss at the paintshop was impressed with the nice, correct semi-matt finish I managed to achieve! LOL! I even asked him if he reckoned I could have a job at his place...he'd said yes...until I told him how many weeks of evenings I spent doing it. Then he just said: "Forget it...there's no future in working that slow however good the end result is!"

However, despite my best efforts at correction myself, the final finish of the previously repainted sides and bonnet hadn't had anything like enough time spent on final finishing. I'm not confident when it comes to be mega-agressive with paint-work correction!

They had to spend 3 days solid on it.

Apparently, they had to go back to going over the whole car: Firstly, with 1500(!) by hand; then 2000 and then 3000 on a DA. This was followed by Autoglym Bodyshop Fine Abrasive 03B; then Farecla G3 and then G10. Thankfully, as it's a solid colour (Arctic White) this was possible and it now looks pretty stunning!

There's still quite a lot to do (and spend!) yet though....

 

[John Jones Jr]

But, for one reason and another, the 300CE will have been by far the longest and hardest...and last!

And last? Hope not. I need all the inspiration I can get!

 

[derin100]

And last? Hope not. I need all the inspiration I can get!

JJJ,

It's the last. I can't do this anymore.

These cars are breaking me mentally and financially. Every car since 2008/9, bar one...which was the W202 C240 with only 14K miles on the clock on my website (which I just about broke even on to the penny) has lost me me money. The last car that I sold, which was the red 230CE on my website was my biggest loss ever. It actually cost me nearer £8K in the end (not the £6K as stated in the advert...as I actually ended up putting a replacement engine in that car between the ad and actually selling it. Don't ask!). I sold it for £4750 i.e over a £3K loss!

As it's the last, I'm putting every effort into it to "go out with a bang" and do something really nice. But this car is being very stubborn at every step of the way. I do something; think I've achieved something and then something else presents itself.

A lot of it is stuff that most people don't really understand and see because it's hidden away underneath:

 

[derin100]

The brownish bits you see on the white aren't rust...that's clear waxoyl (which is actually beige!) staining the white!

I've had the whole old subframe out of that car (which had perforating rust on it) and replaced it with a completely sound one which I first completely sandblasted back to clean metal, bare-metal before re-coating. Every component (bush, arm, link, nut, bolt, etc) was then replaced back there....road springs, shock-absorbers, diff carrier bush, brake lines, fuel lines, backing plates, handbrake components, calipers overhauled, pads...and yes those are new discs. It's just taken so long they've inevitably got surface rust on them by now!

 

[BillyW124]

wow! now i cannot wait to see this when its done.

Great process you have in place to carry out the thing you enjoy most. well done for your efforts so far the cars are fantastic.