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C32 rust issues

Starky

Active Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
700
Car
W211
Right I have had the c32 for about two weeks now and im loving it. I have spotted a few issues that need adressing but nothing to serious (famous last words).

One of them is rust, I have found a few bubbles on the wheel arches and a tiny and I mean tiny slither about 4mm in length and 3mm wide on the roof. What is the best course of action? I was thinking of taking it to a specialist... Does any one know of a good one in southwest London/surrey?

Any help would be great.
 
All so very common but sounds like you have a chance of getting it sorted before it gets to bad.
I have done may of these type of repairs and have a workshop located in Chobham Surrey if I can help in any way?
 
If I were you I'd get a SMART repair, i.e. a localized repair that only deals with the effected area. Rather than the whole panel requiring a respray.

Most bodyshops would be unwilling to do this and would only do an entire panel, which will make the costs far more expensive. However, if your car isn't silver then most body shops would be a bit more willing.

But try and get it sorted whilst it still might be a cheap-ish job. Make sure you stay on top of all stone chips, buy a pot of touch up paint and blob little bits of paint into any stone chips.

Keep an eye on the area around the grill and headlights, the bonnet, the wheel arches, where the wheel arch meets the bumper, the eges of the doors and the edges of the boot.

Keep an eye on those areas and you'll hopefully keep the rust at bay.
 
If I were you I'd get a SMART repair, i.e. a localized repair that only deals with the effected area. Rather than the whole panel requiring a respray.

Most bodyshops would be unwilling to do this and would only do an entire panel, which will make the costs far more expensive. However, if your car isn't silver then most body shops would be a bit more willing.

But try and get it sorted whilst it still might be a cheap-ish job. Make sure you stay on top of all stone chips, buy a pot of touch up paint and blob little bits of paint into any stone chips.

Keep an eye on the area around the grill and headlights, the bonnet, the wheel arches, where the wheel arch meets the bumper, the eges of the doors and the edges of the boot.

Keep an eye on those areas and you'll hopefully keep the rust at bay.



It is silver! iv never heard of a SMART repair. Is their any way could elaborate a bit more:dk:
 
Right I'm going to google it a see if I can find a gooden. If any one can recomened one, even better.
 
SMART = Small and Medium Area Repair Techniques.
 
I'd have a really good look everywhere, mine was mint when I bought it and after 9 months it went in under warranty for 2x new wings,bonnet,tailgate and repaired rear arches. Couple of years on and the bottom of my front doors look really bad:(
 
Smart repairers tend not to get involved on rust they like the turn spray and run. Any good bodyshop will always keep the repair and paint area as small as possible. Why make work for yourself??
 
Marty do you have any suggestions on what to do... Body shop or smart repair?

I am on a budget as the car needs some work carried out, ollys taking care of that but I don't think I'll have much change left. But saying that I would rather spend a bit more if needs be taking it to a body shop.
 
Hi multi-tech.

Can you send me a email of the work you can carry out and maybe a ruff guide on price? Or you can post on here... If youre aloud to I'd check first as I don't won't you to potentially get into trouble for advertising
 
If youre aloud to I'd check first as I don't won't you to potentially get into trouble for advertising

Very true! I don't believe in trying to get free advertising (the best free advertising is word of mouth) I'm here to help owners and enjoy the forum as a Mercedes owner myself.

I will however ask the correct people if i can do a form of advertising with the forum that way I'm covered.
 
I suggest painting the whole area. Sorting the problem localised means the blow line will become visable after about 12-18 months. But then I am a detailer and things like that annoy me more then it would another;)
 
Starky,
If you are on a budget and are not looking for perfection can I suggest you try the job yourself. It's not brain surgery.
Scrape the rust off and rub the area with coarse wet and dry back to mostly shiny metal. Don't worry about the odd bit of black remaining. You will automatically feather the paint back to where it's sound. Now the good bit. Hammerite smooth silver is an excellent colour match to Merc Brilliant Silver!!
And it is good paint. So two coats of that with a careful hand paint brush job, and jobs done for less than £15.

It won't be perfection, but perhaps your limited budget is best spent on fixing real running issues.
 
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Hi starky i can vouch for the guys at multi tech! Great standard of work and tell you how it is when they quote but very competitive! Mine had bonnet, bootlid, arches and doors done.....
 
I'm poping down there on saturday for a quote. Hopefully it won't Cost me a arm and leg:D
 
Did you find out what the options were for a new pulley and map from your other thread in the end?
 
Yeah, jerry at eurocharged wanted $999.00 for a crank pulley and map.west tunning haven't replied to me. And kleemann want £1800 before tax for a map and pulley.

I'm not sure what way to go yet, iv had some positive feed back from Marty with regards to eurocharged. But I like the prestige factor of kleemann, but bloody dear.
 
When i did some research some time ago the yanks seem to like eurocharged! What's the conversion on $999 to sterling? I guess you get the crank pulley fitted then they do a remote map for it..?
 

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