C63 Detail

[LeeJV]

Over the past few weeks I've been doing some testing so to speak on a new wash routine, this may not be of interest to some, but for those like me, trying out new methods to increase efficiency, alternative safe wash methods etc may find this of some use, it's still a working process and exploring new methods as I go, so bare with me.

 

[LeeJV]

As we all know, the standard "safe wash" typically starts with a full rinse down prior to your chosen Prewash, after testing out what way works best in a previous thread I started by Flushing out the arches and tyre walls to knock off any debris and road grit, then applied BH autowheel (diluted 50/50 with DI water) directly to the wheels.
Next was to cover the the lower sections of the car with Citrus-pre-wash followed up with a heavy coating of PH Neutral Snowfoam to the entire car and wheels.
While dwelling I went round with a sash brush to all the plastic grilles, rubbers, trims, tyre walls and wheel barrels.

Before rinsing anything off, I then used a wash Mitt combined with SF to clean the Glass.

Now before you guys start screaming, just take a min to think about what I'm doing. Glass is extremely tough to scratch and generally holds just as much dust, grime, grease etc as the lower parts of the car, by washing these areas with Mitt and SF, not only are you more likely to remove more soiling from those areas prior to rinsing, it also means you don't have to wash again with shampoo.

I then rinse the car down including the wheels,
Attached my QR fitting with hose attached to dry the glass by sheeting water off.


Now the glass is clean and dry, I coat the painted parts of the car and wheel faces with Shampoo via a cannon in the same way I did with SF.




Next up is the contact wash on the wheels with my wheel mitt and soft detail brush, then multi mitt method to the painted panels 1 clean side of a mitt to each panel then grab another mitt and so on till the whole car is washed.
Now fully rinse the painted panels, wheels and all other areas that have any remaining shampoo.

Then to finish up rinse the whole car again by sheeting water off to dry it, so I've only had to use a drying towel for the wheels.

For those not familiar with the water sheeting method here is a short vid.

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That's it for now ad I still have quite a bit more to to write up etc so bare with me.

 

[millc63]

Interesting read. Love it when you start a detailing post as there's always something to learn. In this particular case the multi mitt method. What mitts do you use?

Can't wait for the rest of the posts

 

[W1ghty]

Is it just me , but those shots of the green with the snow foam all over it seems to make me want to clean stuff .
Excellent stuff Lee

 

[LeeJV]

Interesting read. Love it when you start a detailing post as there's always something to learn. In this particular case the multi mitt method. What mitts do you use?

Can't wait for the rest of the posts

Hey buddy, so the 2BM method with grit guards is better than 1 bucket, but it has flaws, when you wash a panel and rinse your Mitt into a rinse bucket it's only the heavy grit and soiling that will drop to the bottom of the bucket, the lighter particles will still float in the water suspended in the shampoo, so when you dip your Mitt into your clean wash bucket you'll still have fine grit and dust on the mitt, after you've done this a few times your essentially rinsing the mitt in dirty water, then adding grit etc to your clean wash bucket. Deep pile wash mitts are extremely difficult to fully rinse out in a bucket, even more so when that water becomes dirty.

The Multi mitt method doesn't need a 2nd rinse bucket. You can do this 2 ways fill your wash bucket with a shampoo mix, put 4 to 6 mitts into the bucket and allow them to soak in shampoo, now the mitts are primed with shampoo and ready for contact. Use 1 side of the mitt, start at the rear quarter, wash along the window line then then work your way horizontally down the panel. Flip the mitt to a clean side and repeat on the 2nd panel. Discard the Mitt and grab another Mitt to do the next panel, flip again onto the last panel on that side. Repeat that method all the way round the sides of the car.
1 clean mitt for the bonnet, flip and then the front bumper
Last mitt boot lid, flip rear bumper etc
Doing this way means a fully cleaned Mitt per panel, No contamination in the wash buckets, no rinsing the mitt, etc.

The other way is to half fill your bucket with water only, add your mitts and allow to soak. Add 20ml of shampoo to 300ml of water in your cannon and apply the shampoo directly to the panel, grab a mitt and work in the same method as before. You'll have more shampoo on the car, better lubrication and a no chance of any grit or soiling be transferred.

I've tested about 10 or so wash mitts, the best I've found is the chemical guys Green wash mitts., these have a greater surface contact than open pile mitts, so you have less chance of swirls, almost non porous so they don't absorb the shampoo as they are 90/10 blend of microfiber, amazingly soft, even more so than a plush buffing towel.

https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/collections/wash-mitts/products/chemical-guys-chenille-microfiber-premium-wash-mitt.

 

[LeeJV]

Also forgot to add a pic of my QR attachment to sheet water off in the same way you'd use a hose, by doing it this way there's no need for a 2nd hose, or watering can etc


This is simply a Cannon fitting with a length of 10mm hose attached the end

 

[LeeJV]

Is it just me , but those shots of the green with the snow foam all over it seems to make me want to clean stuff .
Excellent stuff Lee

Lol, that amongst other thoughts as my mind is somewhat perverted

 

[ShaunB]

Car looks great.
Bit off topic, but can I ask where you got your stone deflectors from?

 

[LeeJV]

Car looks great.
Bit off topic, but can I ask where you got your stone deflectors from?

Hey buddy
These are for the A45 series, but fit very easy

Mercedes Benz Arch/Stone/Mud Guards Black A45 AMG A Class *FRONT ONLY NO LOGO* | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercedes Benz Arch/Stone/Mud Guards Black A45 AMG A Class *FRONT ONLY NO LOGO* at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[ShaunB]

Hey buddy
These are for the A45 series, but fit very easy

Mercedes Benz Arch/Stone/Mud Guards Black A45 AMG A Class *FRONT ONLY NO LOGO* | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercedes Benz Arch/Stone/Mud Guards Black A45 AMG A Class *FRONT ONLY NO LOGO* at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Thanks, i really need to get something sorted for my E63.
I bought a set of the carbonwurks stone guards, the two pins on the E are further apart than the C. C class is 42mm, the E is 62mm.
I bought some thin aluminium and extended the pins, but the fitments to the arch is proving just to difficult, as it wants to be stuck on, and with the E63, there just isn't going to be enough arch lip to stick.
Plus, they are rigid, these guards of yours might be a better option
.
Failing that I will just stick a bit of PPF on and forget about it.

Could I be a pain and ask you to do a couple of pictures of your actual fitment please when you have some time.

Cheers

W213 E63 stone deflectors | Bodywork

Had a very rough check tonight, I think they will work, seems they will match the first pin nearest the arch, but the second pin is beyond reach. Perhaps attach with one pin and a wee drop of silicone instead of the second pin? I'll try to get some more details and a picture tomorrow if I have...

forums.mbclub.co.uk

 

[LeeJV]

Thanks, i really need to get something sorted for my E63.
I bought a set of the carbonwurks stone guards, the two pins on the E are further apart than the C. C class is 42mm, the E is 62mm.
I bought some thin aluminium and extended the pins, but the fitments to the arch is proving just to difficult, as it wants to be stuck on, and with the E63, there just isn't going to be enough arch lip to stick.
Plus, they are rigid, these guards of yours might be a better option
.
Failing that I will just stick a bit of PPF on and forget about it.

Could I be a pain and ask you to do a couple of pictures of your actual fitment please when you have some time.

Cheers

W213 E63 stone deflectors | Bodywork

Had a very rough check tonight, I think they will work, seems they will match the first pin nearest the arch, but the second pin is beyond reach. Perhaps attach with one pin and a wee drop of silicone instead of the second pin? I'll try to get some more details and a picture tomorrow if I have...

forums.mbclub.co.uk

Will do buddy

 

[LeeJV]

Ok so moving on

Some things I forget to mention in the prewash stage with Sf.
When I rinsed down the wheel arches, barrels etc., I also rinsed the underside of the bumpers, side skirts, diffuser and exhaust.
After applying the prewash, went round all the other areas with a detail brush, I also did the underside of the bumpers, skirts, diffuser and exhaust tips with a Mitt and wheel EZ brush, these areas are usually forgotten, by doing those areas with your prewash you've less chance of catching any grit or soiling that could be picked up with your contact wash.

 

[LeeJV]

After its final rinse with di water sheeting the car was petty much dry.
All I needed was a 40x40 finishing towel spritzed with some DI water and my blower to remove any remaining water trapped in the panel edges

This is the finish without using any contact in the drying stage other than the wheel faces that need a little wipe round with a 350 GSM buffing towel.




As you can hopefully see, there's no spotting on any surface, this is due to Di water combined with the sheeting method and a blower.

Not only has this saved me the time of towel drying it's also a safer way to dry the paint, especially in the warmer weather when you have more chance of water spotting and surface dust that will land on the panels when damp.

If you dont have a blower or DI water you can still do the same thing as I have, just add some diluted QD to the small drying towel to remove and remaining water.

 

[chrisk2010]

Great write up as always fella, it's nice to see someone else soaping the car after the initial pre-wash stage but before the contact wash.

I have been doing this as long as i can remember but have never really seen anyone else mention it, depending on the level of muck i tend to rinse each panel with either a separate snow foam lance or i mostly prefer to the the solution bottle feature on the K4 with a good mix of shampoo to prevent any dirt drying back onto the panel.

As i was gifted some Polar blast i have been using that up by applying it after my pre-wash routine to go around with the detail brush as you do and to be honest I'm quite liking using it for this purpose.

It produces plenty of foam and and feel like it slips well under the brush and mitt (mitt for the skirts and lower areas) carrying the grime away from the car and because of the level of foam it doesn't dry as quickly allow more time to give some areas more attention, though this a bit excessive it's the first time i'm considering purchasing a cheap snow foam to add another stage in into my routine. What i have been doing during this though is not foaming the whole car in one hit, i prefer to do a side at a time passenger, back, drivers then front pressure washing after each to make sure anything i have disturbed and removed doesn't settle back down.

 

[LeeJV]

Ah, I've been using the shampoo directly via the cannon since using the Multi mitt method, i have 4 cannons now, used for different brands and shampoo etc, and have the dilution ratio stamped on each on.
Its definitely more lubricated via a cannon than directly from the bucket.
As you mentioned, I also do 1 side at a time in a similar way, especially in the warmer weather, shampoo, sheeting rinse etc.
Sometimes I forget to mention things as I get carried away when doing a write up.

There's more to come yet but we have about 2ft of snow here! I've been re organising my workshop with racking, hot and cold water feeds with hard pipe, should be finished by the end of week ,everything will be wall mounted and organized properly

 

[W1ghty]

Ah, I've been using the shampoo directly via the cannon since using the Multi mitt method, i have 4 cannons now, used for different brands and shampoo etc, and have the dilution ratio stamped on each on.
Its definitely more lubricated via a cannon than directly from the bucket.
As you mentioned, I also do 1 side at a time in a similar way, especially in the warmer weather, shampoo, sheeting rinse etc.
Sometimes I forget to mention things as I get carried away when doing a write up.

There's more to come yet but we have about 2ft of snow here! I've been re organising my workshop with racking, hot and cold water feeds with hard pipe, should be finished by the end of week ,everything will be wall mounted and organized properly

I think we are going to need some garage shots as well buddy . Keep up the great work

 

[LeeJV]

Sorry its been a while since my last update. Despite the lockdown I've still been extremely busy sorting out my workshop


So after the final rinse down, I then spray Bilt hamber ATOM Mac diluted 5% with DI water onto the discs, calipers, between the pad surface and dics, this helps prevent surface rust bonding the pad to the calipers, finish off with a blower to help product migrate and dry. (Again always mix this product, or any finishing product with DI water if you want the best results from them.)

Open up the doors, bonnet, boot etc, wipe down with some Carpro Elixir or Ech20 diluted 20/1 and a 350gsm towel.
Same for the engine bay and underside of the bonnet. Another area often Forgotten, keeping on top of this once a month makes maintenance far easier.



So now the outside is finished, we move onto the inside.

First up. Clean the Alcantara steering wheel. Alcantara needs regular maintenance, more so than leather, grease from your hands combined with dust will cause the Fibre to compress and soil quite quickly.
Start with brushing the fibers to help open the pile with a leather brush,
Nthen I used a fine Emery paper to exfoliate the surface from brittle fibres caused by direct sunlight and heat. Brush down again, repeat untill happy with the texture, finish with Koch chemie PO , using a damp short pile MF cloth to agitate the cleaner into the fabric, blot dry with a 2nd towel then a final brush to reset the pile.









Now that finished, a good vacuum throughout aided by a ultra soft detailing brush to remove dust from the air vents, buttons and trim areas where a vacuum can't get.
Use a 500gsm finish towel with some Aenso Core interior cleaner to all the plastics, spritz some product onto the cloth then wipe over the surface, not only will this remove any remaining dust it's also safer for piano black trims, leaves a very subtle satin OEM finish.
Koch chemie PO also used to clean and maintain the leather upholstery.

 

[SmartAmg]

Absolutely, gorgeous, motor, Lee, that must turn heads everywhere you go, even those not particularly interested in cars.

 

[SpikyMikey]

I am not normally a fan of 'in-your-face' paintwork on cars, but I've got to admit , your C63 is awesome. The colour really works.

 

[cobra7]

I am not normally a fan of 'in-your-face' paintwork on cars, but I've got to admit , your C63 is awesome. The colour really works.

+1

Great thread - your motor looks amazing! Just one question, do you have side business manufacturing / selling wash mitts? (joking aside, all makes perfect sense so will be adopting some of your methods moving forward - thank you