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Changed the ATF on my 97 W210

Parrot of Doom

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
1,101
Location
Manchester, UK
Car
1997 R-reg W210 E300TD saloon
Did the job today, although I was really a spectator as my mate did most of the work. Its actually quite straightforward, and I took some piccies as well. Most of the piccies are from the rear, looking forward (you can see the exhaust and cat on the right).

1) Make sure the engine and gearbox are up to running temperature

2) Drive car onto ramps, leave in neutral with engine off

3) Lift the car up on the ramps

4) Remove the plastic cover protecting the pan (about 8 self tapping bolts with washers)

5) Remove the drain plug (allen key) and drain the ATF into a bucket, only a couple of litres will come out of here:

drain%20plug%20removed%20from%20pan.jpg


6) Leave until its stopped dripping, and then remove the pan (6 torque bolts). Gasket is attached to the lip of the pan. Be careful there will be a litre or so of fluid in the pan, so hold it steady! Once its stopped, you should be looking at this:

pan%20off%20and%20old%20filter%20in%20place.jpg


7) Remove old filter, this is the hole it plugs into:

old%20filter%20removed.jpg


8) Wait for drips to stop

9) Reattach the pan, loosely - this stops more ATF dripping on your head while you're draining the torque convertor

10) Hunt for torque convertor drain plug - as luck would have it, the bugger was nowhere to be seen, so my mate pushed the flywheel around with a thick screwdriver. It took about 10 minutes, but slowly he managed to turn the flywheel enough and reveal the drain plug. He was pushing the wheel to the right as he stood - thats anti-clockwise as you're behind it (ie facing forward). You can see the plug below:

torque%20convertor%20drain%20plug.jpg


11) Remove drain plug, hold bucket underneath. About another 3-4 litres should come out of here, and quickly too:

torque%20convertor%20drain.jpg


12) Wait for everything to drain, then reattach the plug. We fitted the washer backwards, to make a better seal.

13) Put new filter into position

14) Clean the pan, put new gasket on the edge (fits beautifully), bolt back into position. The design of the bolts means you can't damage the pan by overtightening, which I thought was clever.

15) Put the drain plug back on the pan, and nip tight. Its an aluminium bolt so be careful.

16) Put the plastic cover back in position

17) Lower car on ramps, open bonnet, remove filler cap (screwdriver may be required)

18) Get a funnel, and pour the new ATF down. Go slowly.


We didn't have a dipstick, so we filled her up with the same amount as what we drained. I did this by collecting the old ATF in the same bucket, and pouring it into each empty bottle of new ATF we used. Once the bucket was empty, we stopped filling it up. I'm going to take it to a nearby indy and have it checked just to be on the safe side.

The differences are quite subtle, certainly upchanges are much smoother, although downchanges are most pronounced, particularly after using kickdown. The car moves into gear from neutral more quickly, I'd say maybe 1-2 tenths of a second quicker.

The old ATF was very dark brown. It didn't smell burnt, and there were no metal filings or particles anywhere to be seen, so I'm assuming the box is fine and its just never been changed (167000 miles). My mate said we could have been draining the engine oil it was that black!

old%20atf.jpg


Obviously it goes without saying that we cleaned everything in sight with a rag and cleaning fluids, including the pan.
 
I should add that we filled it back up with about 5.5 litres of new ATF. I'm assuming that the 1.5 litres we had left over (the capacity is 7 litres IIRC) is because some of the old fluid is still swilling around in parts that aren't easily drained. I'll know for sure once its been dipped.
 
did you drain the torque converter - I assume not, thats where the other 1.5 l will be I guess
 
grasmere said:
did you drain the torque converter - I assume not, thats where the other 1.5 l will be I guess

LOL..there's a photo of it draining
rof24.gif
!
Most of the undrained oil is in the oil cooler and pipes thats one of the reasons dealers pump new oil
through the system via the inlet and outlet pipes.

adam
 
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Great post bird flu of doom.

BTW the easy way to turn the engine over is with a socket on the crank pully nut.
I would say buying the special MB dipstick is essential before doing this job,you can't assume the old oil level
is correct.

The underside of your car shows an amazing lack of corrosion for a 97 car.
dance.gif
dance.gif
dance.gif


adam
 
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Changed myn ATF in the C250 yesterday. It has 80k on the clock and was a dark brown black colour!

I believe it used around 8 litres to fill it up to the max mark inc the torque converter.

The box was already really smooth, but has got even smoother now! Its wise to change it as a precaution. I would say at least 80k judging by the state mine was in!
 
Doesn't this belong in the How To's?

Crackin' post:rock: Have a narna:bannana: n some rep;)
 
big x said:
Great post bird flu of doom.

BTW the easy way to turn the engine over is with a socket on the crank pully nut.
I would say buying the special MB dipstick is essential before doing this job,you can't assume the old oil level
is correct.

The underside of your car shows an amazing lack of corrosion for a 97 car.
adam

Thanks. The last time it went in for work I had the level checked and they said it was fine.

Theres a fair amount of surface corrosion around various suspension components, which I'll sort out one day with some POR15. Couldn't see anything rusting through, although the shocks were in a terrible state as the black plastic 'skin' was peeling off :)
 
Hi

Good post, mine took 7.4 L of oil doing the same as you did also i did a mates C250DT a few weeks ago and it took the same. I have the dipstick and check with it running at operating temperature.
Do you notice any whine from the box when oil is cold?

230k
 
pammy said:
Doesn't this belong in the How To's?

Crackin' post:rock: Have a narna:bannana: n some rep;)


correct! and now done!
 
None whatsoever, mind you I've never driven a Merc before I bought this one so I couldn't really tell. Certainly nothing that sounds wrong.

I'm going to take it to Greenvale in Whitefield tomorrow, I ordered a dipstick from them ages ago and I think they forgot about it :) I've spent a fair whack in there getting complex jobs done, so I don't think they'll mind too much.

Thanks for all the nice comments btw, hopefully this post will save a few of you some serious wedge, the job took about 2 hours (although an experienced hand would have it done in less than 1 hour)
 
Was there any reason you didn't flush the system - there's quite a lot of old ATF left if you don't.

I know the 722.6 transmisison has a magnet in the sump to collect any larger ferrous particles - did yours have one?

Excellent post :)
 
stats007 said:
Was there any reason you didn't flush the system - there's quite a lot of old ATF left if you don't.

I know the 722.6 transmisison has a magnet in the sump to collect any larger ferrous particles - did yours have one?

Excellent post :)

Flushing the system isn't something we really thought about, although I'll certainly consider it on the next change. I've got about 1.5 litres left of clean ATF. I reckon about a litre of the old fluid is left in there, I might run it for a few thousand miles and then empty 1.5 litres, and top it up with what I have left, just to dilute it a bit more.

Didn't see any particles anywhere, totally clean. My main worry was bits of metal floating around, unless they were in the filter there was nothing to be seen :) Didn't see a magnet, and the plug didn't appear to be magnetic either.

I've been driving around tonight, the changes are definitely smoother now, its much improved. Its a little hesitant when cold, going from D to R, that could be a bit of air in the system I suppose but I'll keep my eye on it. The main thing is that there are no worrying clunks or funny noises :) Under kickdown she roars off like a beast (although not as fast as my TVR was!)

I'll let you know if I have to top it up, I suspect it might need a tiny bit more but I'm unwilling to put any more in until its checked, in case I put too much down the filler and rupture a seal or something.
 
LOL..there's a photo of it draining !

doh :o

could have sworn that pic wasnt there before :rolleyes:

ok - it was - so much for laser eyeballs ;)

very good post anyway . . .
 
An excellent how to, sir!!

Believe me, you REALLY do not want to overfill the box.

When an indie did mine back at 98K (now on 161), they overfilled it as the gibbon clearly didn't know the difference between a hot level and a cold level, and that liquids tend to expand once heated. Ergo yours truly pulled over on the M6 by West Midlands finest because of the smoke coming out from under my car.

Went back, the indie drained some fluid out and all has been well ever since. But get that dipstick and use it.

Nice one,
Greg
 
Right, Greenvale in Whitefield very kindly checked the level for me, and it was about 1/4 - 1/3 a litre short. Thats not bad IMO, I was pretty close :) They also ran a diagnostic on the gearbox and the car in general, which came up with no problems.

Didn't charge me for it either, which is superb service (I slipped the guy a fiver for a pint though :))

The dipstick for the gearbox is a very simple bit of equipment. Basically all you need is a long spring (like you find on a drainpipe auger), the important bit is the plastic tab at the end which has the measurements on. If I could get a copy of that tab then it would be very easy for anybody to make one up. The length of the spring handle is unimportant, quite a bit of it pokes out the top when the measurement is taken.
 
Doom

Did they check the level with the engine running or with it stopped, if that is all the oil yours took mine is too full which might explain the very slight whine when cold.
Can you let me know please.

Thanks

230K
 

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