chrisk2010
MB Enthusiast
I think we all are lol
Clay Bars?
- Thread starter Collister
- Start date
I think we all are lol
OP
OP
Collister
Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2018
- Messages
- 31
- Location
- Isle of Man
- Car
- C63 AMG P30, Supercharged Civic Type R Track Car
Cheers guys I have gone for the blit hamber regular clay
David404
Active Member
+1 G3 Farclea Clay Mitt. Have used Megs clay bars in the past but the G3 is far quicker and easier to use - you can really feel it working amazing. Use with weak car wash solution far quicker then clay bar and TBH I thought it did just as good a job as the Megs clay bar.
AlexM
Active Member
I've used (and do use) both the G3 and the Bilt Hamber clay bar. The mitt is easy to use, but you do need a quick detailer to use as a lubricant. If you get a clay streak on the paint, it's a real pain to get off again.. I have to use a scratch remover or similar. It doesn't take much, even a dry spot can lead to a deposit.
I think the Bilt Hamber is the easiest and most effective clay bar I've used - really gets tar spots and bug splats shifted almost immediately, and just being able to use water as a lubricant is a clincher. It's also cheap for the quantity and lasts very well.
I think the Bilt Hamber is the easiest and most effective clay bar I've used - really gets tar spots and bug splats shifted almost immediately, and just being able to use water as a lubricant is a clincher. It's also cheap for the quantity and lasts very well.
Grandtrousers
New Member
Bilt Hamber is excellent.
I use a foam cannon to start - leave it for 10 - 15 minutes to let the surfectants do their stuff. Then after rinsing off a wash with shampoo and lambswool mitt. Rinse off again and spray with fall out cleaner (iron ox or similar) Rinse off and wash again with shampoo and rinse.
Then clay bar - use a really thin cheap plastic bag on your hand or the gloves that they supply when filling up with diesel on the forecourt. This makes your fingertips super sensitive when stroking the bodywork and helps you find any spots of debris that may still be embedded in the lacquer, the worst place is normally on the front wings behind the wheel arch (brake dust).
Then I use a lacquer correction pad and compound followed by a waxing pad and wax.
Finally I seal with SONAX; an excellent long lasting and hard wearing product.
After this has been done all I have to do is a quick hand wash, as the car pretty much dries itself I use waterless wash and wax from Aldi, it provides excellent results and I can do my entire car in about 15 minutes.
I use a foam cannon to start - leave it for 10 - 15 minutes to let the surfectants do their stuff. Then after rinsing off a wash with shampoo and lambswool mitt. Rinse off again and spray with fall out cleaner (iron ox or similar) Rinse off and wash again with shampoo and rinse.
Then clay bar - use a really thin cheap plastic bag on your hand or the gloves that they supply when filling up with diesel on the forecourt. This makes your fingertips super sensitive when stroking the bodywork and helps you find any spots of debris that may still be embedded in the lacquer, the worst place is normally on the front wings behind the wheel arch (brake dust).
Then I use a lacquer correction pad and compound followed by a waxing pad and wax.
Finally I seal with SONAX; an excellent long lasting and hard wearing product.
After this has been done all I have to do is a quick hand wash, as the car pretty much dries itself I use waterless wash and wax from Aldi, it provides excellent results and I can do my entire car in about 15 minutes.
