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Diesel Tickover Adjust

TVRTASMIN

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
128
Location
Steeton
Car
W124 300TD. W124 E300D. Rover P4 110. Rover P6 3.9. Various TVR's Two Ducati's.
Anybody know how to adjust the tickover on a W124 E300D 24Valve auto?

Revs are a little high making snatchy gearchanges:crazy:
 
Why are you changing gear at tickover? Do you mean you're engaging R or D from P or N?

The idle is set by an idle ECU and is adjustable via an MB hand controller / diagnostic unit. I am not sure that it can be permanently changed via this unit

Are the throttle & kickdown cables adjusted properly?? Are the diff mounts, engine mounts and prop doughnuts worn?

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
How high is the tickover and do you mean engagement of D and R as Bolide says or do you mean gear changes.?

The idle speed will make no difference to the gear changes, that's down to the vacuum element on the side of the gearbox. Firstly check the vacuum lines are all connected.
 
The idle is about 600-750rpm.
I should have said it snatches when putting into drive or reverse. Plus it crawls when at the lights say.

I do not know how to set the cables up. The manual i have does not cover the 24Valve. Set them ok on my 300TD 12Valve fine.
 
It will creep due to the available torque. For a clunky shift I'd inspect the propshaft foints first and the vacuum lines. The cable adjustment is for the gear shift points so won't be used at idle.

The idle is a little high so could be worth checking with a diagnostic machine. It should be 600-650rpm.
 
Would be very interested in being able to check the cable settings etc.
There is a slider bar with locknut which can be adjusted so i really need to know the correct procedure.;)
 
The cable is the same as all 722.4 boxes. Unclip the balljoint and allow the cable to relax. The socket should be just over the ball when relaxed and the accellerator is relaxed as well.
This isn't your problem though.
 
Where the accelerator linkage pivots - about halfway along the inlet manifold, there's a rod which goes down to the injector pump. If you pop the plastic joint apart there and run the engine, does the idle speed drop to the correct figure?

If so, there's a problem with the setting up of the pedal and cable, and it's possible that the cable is sticking.

If not, there are some checks to make on the injector pump, and a base idle setting to be made without the ELR connected before you need to become concerned with re-setting the idle speed electronically.
 
Where the accelerator linkage pivots - about halfway along the inlet manifold, there's a rod which goes down to the injector pump. If you pop the plastic joint apart there and run the engine, does the idle speed drop to the correct figure?

If so, there's a problem with the setting up of the pedal and cable, and it's possible that the cable is sticking.

If not, there are some checks to make on the injector pump, and a base idle setting to be made without the ELR connected before you need to become concerned with re-setting the idle speed electronically.


I'll try and look this weekend. I think the revs have crept up over the last few weeks.
Once the base settings are checked (cables/rods) i suppose anything set on an ecu will come last.
 

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