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Electrical circuit backfeeding - flattening batteries.

Bellow

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Ecosse.
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Came across the following here >> RockAuto November Newsletter
As the link will likely update to the most recent newsletter, here's a copy and paste of the article.

''
Backfeeding occurs when what should be the load side of an electrical circuit instead becomes a current source. One of the most infamous examples of backfeeding is when an improperly connected home generator sends electrical current out of the house and into the power lines, potentially shocking utility workers.

One way backfeeding happens in a car is when a failing component or incorrectly wired accessory enables the flow of rogue electrical current. This can be a bigger problem for newer cars with lots of computers because a relatively tiny electrical current travelling back up a wire might be all it takes to signal some control module to stay on. The control module thinks it is seeing a signal from a sensor or computer that it knows, but instead it is just receiving some electrical current noise that has followed a circuitous path to the module. The control module stays on and continues to draw power even after the driver turns the vehicle off. This parasitic loss can eventually drain the vehicle's battery.

My deputy sheriff son drives a seasoned 2017 Ford Police Interceptor Utility (Explorer) that occasionally exhibits electrical backfeeding symptoms. The car is loaded with (cool) electrical police accessories (lights, gun lock, computers, sirens, etc.). The accessories may not draw enough current to drain the battery but some of them periodically let a little rogue current flow out into the vehicle's wiring harness which fools a control module somewhere into staying on and that control module could drain the vehicle battery if the car sits for more than a couple of days.

Another source of backfeeding current can be a battery-equipped computer, toy or other device that is left plugged into one of the vehicle's power sockets (cigarette lighter). Once the vehicle is shut down, current might begin flowing out of the device into the wiring harness and eventually make its way to a control module that is tricked into turning on. First responders at car wrecks now look for devices still plugged into power sockets that might be generating enough current to cause sparks or keep something potentially dangerous like an airbag control module on. (A professional technician or DIYer should also unplug electrical devices left in a car before working on it.)

Electrical Circuit Backfeeding IMG
Parasitic current draws or backfeeding currents can be detected by checking for voltages across fuses. If there is a voltage then some current is flowing. The backs of fuses typically have small electrical contacts for a multimeter's probes (see image above). When installing your own (cool) accessories (lights, trailer wiring, horns...), try to get power from an unused fuse on the fuse block or at least a circuit with the fewest number of sensitive control modules.

Tom Taylor
RockAuto.com''
 
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That’s interesting and not something I had considered.
A good example of this could be a dashcam with its own internal battery.
By coincidence I noticed yesterday that my battery monitor was showing the battery draining at a higher than normal rate.
A quick check and the dashcam was permanently on, powered by a Garmin obd power adaptor which should have shut off power.
Certainly something to check out 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
 
That’s interesting and not something I had considered.
Me neither - until I chanced upon it in the Rock Auto newsletter. Given how prevalent flattening batteries are I figured I'd be as well bring it to wider attention. Especially with the increased computerisation in modern day cars and the tendency to have things plugged in to supply sockets. 'Unplug from the mains' advice has migrated from the house to the car.
 
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Sorry, aside from some language confusion, I think most of what is written is ball cocks.
I can see stray signals on the canbus confusion the SAM, and causing some unintentional consequences.
But these back feeding currents, and via a ciggy lighter, I don't see it. These things are into a 12 volt bus and would be soaked up, if there were any.

Happy to learn different. After all I only think I know what I know.
 
I’ve found several times things that I hadn’t thought about and decided that pretty much anything can happen that seems impossible until you actually see and diagnose it.
I’ll give you an example and set anyone a challenge.
I went out to a car transporter (mid seventies)
The headlights were on dim permanently.
As part of the fix, I had to replace the starter motor.
24 volt, fully insulated electrics.
What was (were) the problems?
 
Sorry, aside from some language confusion, I think most of what is written is ball cocks.
I can see stray signals on the canbus confusion the SAM, and causing some unintentional consequences.
But these back feeding currents, and via a ciggy lighter, I don't see it. These things are into a 12 volt bus and would be soaked up, if there were any.

Happy to learn different. After all I only think I know what I know.

Agreed. Also agree with Ted that almost anything can happen but we are not after scenarios that flatten a car battery once in your lifetime, triggered by an alien.

The article seems more like attracting readers to conclude that the writer is very knowledgeable. Of course if someone installs devices that confuse the CAN bus, issues may appear but it isn't any rocket science and not any backfeed issue.
 
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Who here is old enough to remember hearing (almost daily) "........Due to a lorry fire on the Motorway/A44X/B303 etc etc...." during the traffic bulletins ? I believe at the time many of them were attributed to cheap accessories plugged into cigarette lighter sockets that had 'multi plugs' plugged into them then overheated.

It's something you almost never hear these days , more like " M25 closed due to an overprivileged Trustafarian Gimp hanging from a gantry ..." etc.
 
The headlights were on dim permanently.
Great challenge imho. :)

Just for clarificaion Ted; " headlights on" was the permanently when the engine was running or at all times please.?
 
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They were on at all times (with battery connected). They were on dim. The headlight switch was not faulty. There were no electronics as such. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
 
I’ll spill the beans as I’m off out shortly.
Remember - fully insulated wagon. All returns via wires, not the chassis.
The starter motor was an SL5 model with a metal shroud over the rear. One of screws that connects the main starter positive terminal to the solenoid had come loose and was touching the shroud (not visible until the starter was stripped). This put a positive feed onto the starter body/engine/chassis.
This wouldn’t have been noticeable but the return wire to one of the headlamps was trapped and the conductor was touching the cab body.
So the current was flowing from the main positive to the headlamp return, backwards through the bulbs to the negative - presumably on the other headlamp.
I had a similar fault where every time the engine was revved up the flashers on one side came on. That was the alternator warning light short to the chassis and also the flasher feed on one side.
 

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