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ESP ABS Run flat not working

MarkG14

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2022
Messages
29
Location
Essex
Car
W204
Just started journey this morning and within 50 yards had all sorts of warning messages (listed in topic heading) come up on the dash.

Power steering not working too.

Suspected a duff battery (it is 16 years old) so whipped it off and had Halfords check it.

Battery is fine (94% capacity, very good for its age).

Anyone had this happen and could suggest the possible cause?

Appreciated.
 
At 16 years old I'd be replacing that battery anyway.......the one in my wife's Mercedes was still within specs.....but was also 16 years old. Put a new one in and what an improvement. It spins the motor over much faster from cold and the occasional random warning lights she used to get completely stopped. Mercs are very stable voltage and current sensitive......newer ones are even more so.
 
At 16 years old I'd be replacing that battery anyway.......the one in my wife's Mercedes was still within specs.....but was also 16 years old. Put a new one in and what an improvement. It spins the motor over much faster from cold and the occasional random warning lights she used to get completely stopped. Mercs are very stable voltage and current sensitive......newer ones are even more so.
Halfords tested it twice and assure me the battery is fine.

The car starts fine, but now the engine management light comes on from start, and the the folding mirrors (rather oddly) won’t unfold!
 
"Global "electrical faults are almost always down to a car voltage supply being out of acceptable working range. This can be down to battery,alternator or wiring/earthing problems. Get the car tested by an auto electrical specialist such as a local Bosch service centre and buy a new battery!
 
As a matter of interest - could I test this “duff battery” theory by hooking up my wife’s car battery?

My Mercedes battery is 95ah, 950Aen.

Wife’s Suzuki battery is much smaller with smaller capacity.

Would hooking up her battery damage my electrics?
 
I don't think so, but while sufficient for a Suzuki and a "good battery", it might still be duff in a Mercedes so won't really prove anything.
As for the mirrors no longer folding, my CLK used to do that every time the battery was disconnected, it rectified itself within 24 hours.
 
I don't think so, but while sufficient for a Suzuki and a "good battery", it might still be duff in a Mercedes so won't really prove anything.
As for the mirrors no longer folding, my CLK used to do that every time the battery was disconnected, it rectified itself within 24 hours.
Yes, had the same folding problem every time the battery is disconnected. And as you say, the problem rectifies itself after a run.
The new symptom is that the mirrors won’t un-fold. In the folded position and won’t open.
 
Yes, had the same folding problem every time the battery is disconnected. And as you say, the problem rectifies itself after a run.
The new symptom is that the mirrors won’t un-fold. In the folded position and won’t open.
Even with the switch? Try pressing the switch to open while the window is open and apply pressure to the mirror with your hand at the same time.
 
Yes, had the same folding problem every time the battery is disconnected. And as you say, the problem rectifies itself after a run.
The new symptom is that the mirrors won’t un-fold. In the folded position and won’t open.
Have you reset the windows?
 
Could be ABS wheel sensor, when mine packed up I had ABS, traction control and heavy steering among other things, if it is it’s a cheap fix.
 
Could be ABS wheel sensor, when mine packed up I had ABS, traction control and heavy steering among other things, if it is it’s a cheap fix.
Have all these symptoms, and both the battery and a wheel sensor are on my list of culprits 😀

Hopefully, the mobile technician will be able to confirm if it is one or the other. Or something else.

Thanks again guys.
 
Halfords tested it twice and assure me the battery is fine.
Halfords use a signal injector to test the internal impedance of a battery. They can be accurate but imho I wouldn’t trust one.
The best way is using a high rate discharge tester (a low resistance, high load) on the battery. A decent auto electrician should have one.
At 16 years old even a stingy old bastard like me would be thinking of a new one before the onset of colder weather.
 
With an ABS sensor fault the warning lights will all come on around 25 mph, once restarted the lights go off but return at 25 mph again.
 
With an ABS sensor fault the warning lights will all come on around 25 mph, once restarted the lights go off but return at 25 mph again.
Like I said, the battery appears to have plenty of power and the engine starts immediately it is cranked, but engine-management warning light stays on. Once I get moving I get the Run Flat inoperative message along with ABS and ESP messages, and the power steering shuts off making the steering feel very heavy. Restarting goes through the same cycle.
 
What model is it ?. Could also so be reluctor ring or magnetic wheel bearing.
 
3 things come to mind .

1.battery voltage. Amps mean nothing . You can get this information via the steering wheel buttons.

2. Abs sensor throwing a wobbler.

3. Brake light switch.
 
Mobile roadside assist called at 9.30am.

Plugged in his X-entry computer, which indicated a wheel sensor problem NSR.

Took the car for a short ride, which showed that the problem was in fact the ESP control unit!

Just my luck - £800+ to replace.
 
Mobile roadside assist called at 9.30am.

Plugged in his X-entry computer, which indicated a wheel sensor problem NSR.

Took the car for a short ride, which showed that the problem was in fact the ESP control unit!

Just my luck - £800+ to replace.
I’d be wary of that diagnosis, the control unit may well show a problem if a wheel sensor is faulty. As suggested above, change the wheel sensor first.
 

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