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ESP Light

Hi Guys sorry been really busy past day or so. i'll look through your input from all of you and thanks for posting. i'll keep you informed.

thanks everyone. :thumb:
 
I do not see the point of replacing a sensor if the lead is damaged, surely you replace or repair the lead.

Which is what I was getting at earlier, the plugs and sockets on these things are getting a bit naughty, but pretty simple to fix if you can isolate the fault. Corrosion or moisture in plug or module - been there too, it does not mean new module.
 
im putting the car into my bro's place next tuesday and going to print off some stuff from here for him to look through. fingers crossed we may get to some solutions. out of interest - my bro put in 16 new plugs but did not check the gap. assuming the gap was standard out the box would this contribute to the limit cutting in every gear? i only say this by past experience.
 
C1022 is listed as moisture or corrosion in plug or BAS module. 1:- check connector plug 3(CAN / power supply) for moisture or corrosion.2 :- Clean moisture or corrosion. 3:- If fault remains..Remove/install or replace BAS control module. On the 210 the BAs is part of the ESP module. Warnings include press the brake pedal a few times before disconnecting the vacuum lines etc or you will bugger your brake booster. No info on the other faults yet

Did i mention that this fault code and repairs are from MB
 
How recent was the code reading ? And were the codes read/ then erased then test driven then read again. i.e. initial codes read. Then a test drive . Then read codes again. If BAS is part of the ESP module then isn't that telling you something ? You haven't said if you've checked it out or not. I think Jefrs might be also pointing in the right direction
 
Has the battery got low at any stage or is it generally weak, if so charge or replace then get codes cleared, just a thought, I also had a brake switch fault which put the BAS/ESP light on.
 
How recent was the code reading ? And were the codes read/ then erased then test driven then read again. i.e. initial codes read. Then a test drive . Then read codes again. If BAS is part of the ESP module then isn't that telling you something ? You haven't said if you've checked it out or not. I think Jefrs might be also pointing in the right direction

the codes came up about 3months ago when i took the car to MB. to be fair i haven't had much time since to investigate further as i had to get steering rack replaced x2 tyres etc etc plus the wife is pregnant again so had to get few things done to the house.

i have not gone any further with the ESP/BAS at the mo, when it was at MB all i had was a diagnostic check which brought the codes up. they were not erased then test driven. i have put a new battery on but it is not an MB one, i have been told this could be an issue as the charge may not be upto it. i do think the voltage is lower than the standard one i'll check.

i dont think its the battery that is making the engine rev cut in every gear tho. this is the one thats bugging me.
 
I very much doubt the battery is the problem not even the idea about it causing one of your fault codes. As for busy ..I HEAR THAT !!! I will try figure out if the esp thing causes rev limitation
 
I very much doubt the battery is the problem not even the idea about it causing one of your fault codes. As for busy ..I HEAR THAT !!! I will try figure out if the esp thing causes rev limitation

yeah seems like i never have any time to myself. as far as i know the manual states that if the ABS is off as with the ESP then Torque is reduced.
 
I recently had codes read too. But what is the point if they don't tell you what the codes actually mean ? I phoned back up because they told me no faults were found but the printouts showed faults. I told him i thought the tests were not done properly, he agreed, and has told me to return when i sort my gearbox problem and he will read the codes. If you pay for diagnostics then you should be told where the problems are and what may sort them and the cost (if apparent) Rather than just 200 for more work.... Probably too late now to get more from them. My diag cost 80 euro for 1.5hrs( I don't really believe it had this time but anyway )
 
Oops. Typo at my post #16 - my "ABS" is supposed to be "BAS", I don't recall the ABS (Anti-lock Brake) giving an error.
 
Hans, you really need some proper diagnosis done. Car to a dealer or specialist with a Star. Fault codes are helpful but you need more data than that. It will save you money in the long run. I expect the esp fault is related to your rev limit problem.
 
just been out for a bit and driving along and hitting just over 4k the limit kicks in. BUT does anyone know what the gap on the spark plugs should be? i had same issue once when i changed the plugs on my Skyline GT-R R33 i changed the gap (to .7mm) and the rev bounce stopped. we put new plugs in when i got it but didnt check the gap.
 
oh and Black55 - i do still want to bring it down to you but got birthday this wknd, wedding next and donnington the next, so bare with i'll be in contact. thanks
 
Assuming this is your car and Engine:

E430 4.3 16 210 Series V8 M113.940 09/97-06/02

And you have MB branded NGK plugs PFR5G-11, then the gap should NOT be set or tempered with but left as is when it comes out of the box.

This info is from the NGK catalogue.
 
Right my bro has just called me, they found:

Code: C1022 - Fault with CAN BAS communication ref ME N3/10 - Right.

im not sure what this means exactly but obviously there is an electrical fault between the 2 systems. the ECU/ECM/Control module they found oil on one of the connectors which they cleaned off and put connector cleaner on.

They checked the ABS connector's there is no corrosion but cleaned it all up too. Infact they said its really clean underneath. what could the oil be on the ECM/ECU? would this indicate a leaky ABS Pump? Also after cleaning connectors up and the oil it still has BAS ESP and ANTI LOCK lights come up he didnt mention about the rev cut but assume it still cuts after 4k in every gear. do i need to dissconnect the battery at all? or do the lock to lock to reset? i wont get the car back till tomorrow as its at my bro's workshop so cant try anything else tonight.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Any help would be much apreciated.
 
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i got the car back next day, everything still as it was previous. going to book it into a local diagnostic place. failing that take to Black55, assuming if i go that far i'd want the problem fixed. i cant seem to get anyone who can tell what EXACTLY the problem is!!! im really not liking this car at the moment!!:wallbash:
 
C1022 is listed as moisture or corrosion in plug or BAS module. 1:- check connector plug 3(CAN / power supply) for moisture or corrosion.2 :- Clean moisture or corrosion. 3:- If fault remains..Remove/install or replace BAS control module. On the 210 the BAs is part of the ESP module. Warnings include press the brake pedal a few times before disconnecting the vacuum lines etc or you will bugger your brake booster. No info on the other faults yet

You have checked this out right ? :confused:
 

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