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First Post, First problem!

You can drive it 5 miles. The worst that will happen is that it'll blow all the water out of the cooling system. You'll know when that happens...

I wouldn't do a CHG replacement without having the head skimmed. It's false economy. My local head specialist quoted me £300 to skim & rebuild a 24-valve head and replace a couple of bad valves. Cost was inc parts. Your head can only be cheaper to do

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
If it is only firing on 3 find the cylinder thats filling up with water and leave the plug out then drive it home with the cap off
 
If anyone takes a head off it is always advisable to take the valves out, re lap them and fit new valve stem oil seals. It can save an awful lot of grief later on in the cars life.
 
If anyone takes a head off it is always advisable to take the valves out, re lap them and fit new valve stem oil seals. It can save an awful lot of grief later on in the cars life.

This is what I said Ian earler on, worth giving to a firm that will replace seats if needed and machine lap them and you just slip it back on.

This car will have a single timing chain, is it worth setting the engine on the timing marks to check for any stretch before he takes it down
 
I parked the car up as it was down on power and there is a real mess in the coolant. I'm a bit paranoid about doing any more damage than is already done - I'm fairly sure it didn't overheat so hoping to get away without head skim but I'II only know when it is stripped down. I ordered a set from eurocar parts last week but they have gone very quiet - no idea when it'll arrive so have got a gen MB part coming in next week from the dealer.

Is it as simple as putting a straight edge on the diagonals to see if the head is warped, or is that too simple?

I've put a piccy up on discussion so you can see the offending motor!

Thanks for your help

A flat piece of glass smear lightly with grease place down on the head but don't move it about,you should see if there are any low spots.In any case at that age it wouldnt hurt to have a light skim
 
Just a mini udpate so you don't think I have given up. I just work really slowly!!

Drove the car back to my house. Temperature stayed low and had a rough idle, down on power - as before. ( made me smile driving it though, damn cool car!)

I unfortunately have to try and fit a kitchen when I'm not at work. In the interests keeping the missus sweet I will need to make some progress with this before I spend too much time on the car but will post my findings when I can!

Thanks all for you help so far!
 
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Eeerrrmmm.

Do I need new head bolts when putting it all back together? Reading the info I have there are 3 torque numbers when tightening the bolts.ie. tighten sequentially to lowest first, then around again a bit tighter, leave it a bit and finally tighten all to the highest.

I think that means they are stretch bolts then. Can you guys confirm/correct me.

Just remembered another one.

There is mention of an impact puller for removing the slider rail. Is there a way round this that anyone knows?

One more.

The head will be off and coolant drained for a good week while the head is being machined. Apart from putting some clean rag down the pots, anything else I need to do while the engine is open?

In case you hadn't noticed, I'm trying to make sure I cover all problems before I start and the car is immobile:)

Thanks

Matt
 

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