HELP wheel bolts snapped !!!!

[proser]

When to change my wheels and one of the wheel bolts has snapped off the head (these are the longer shoulder version) and it looks like I have 3 others going a similar way

advice needed in getting them out without damaging the wheels if possible

 

[kwakdonut]

How the heck have 4 wheel bolts got to that stage??

If you can get the remaining bolts out, you may be able to remove any snapped ones with a screw extractor kit or just with careful drilling out. If you don't feel confident enough, then DON'T and get someone professional to do it!

 

[corned]

You may want to find and read a thread started by Jaymanek some time last year. On some of the long bolts there is a flange below the head, so you still can't get the wheel off once the head has snapped off.

Edit - found it!

 

[proser]

How the heck have 4 wheel bolts got to that stage??

If you can get the remaining bolts out, you may be able to remove any snapped ones with a screw extractor kit or just with careful drilling out. If you don't feel confident enough, then DON'T and get someone professional to do it!

Numpties when they fitted winter tyres to the rear

 

[kwakdonut]

Ouch.....

 

[Ian B Walker]

you could try using Irwins (they are reverse thread extractors)

 

[louisv6]

Numpties when they fitted winter tyres to the rear

These tyre fitter places love their powertools, and rarely worry about using the correct torque setting...

 

[proser]

As per a suggestion by A-P, on the other forum, I have managed to loosen off the other 3 bolts. So just leaves the one to drill out.

Thanks A-P.

 

[jonnyboy]

the likes of the kwik tyre fitters have locking bolt extractors. they whack on then screw onto the head working by reverse threaded socket with a power bar.

 

[proser]

this isn't the same thing, as the wheel bolt (pic below) has snapped the head off and therefore has left a short length of plain stud before the flange that holds the wheel on.

As suggested, the only way is to drill the flange off.

 

[The Pan Man]

You need a modern (Most likely Snap On) stud exractor. Any good garage mechanic will have a set of them. As you look on the end imagine 3 or 4 comma shapes with a sharp leading edge, the principal is the harder you lean on the breaker bar the more they bite into the parent material. NOTE BREAKER BAR |Never use a ratchet for this kind of job. The type that require you to drill a hole in the broken part a were originally designed for use when the break is flush or below the surface.

 

[proser]

Do you have a picture of this modern extractor ??

 

[khimani_mohiki]

try tightening the surrounding bolts (using a different type of bolt of course and plenty of copper grease or similar), this may reduce some of the tension in the broken bolt and ease getting it out with an extractor.

 

[andy_k]

if you can get them in the gap, a set of Irwin sockets will do the job, but if space is tight then you may have to drill the flange first then use an extractor to pull the stud out.

Drilling the flange shouldn't be too scary as you don't need to be 100% accurate on the centering (the nearer you are the better but it's not critical) as the metal will fail due to stress before yo have drilled all the way through and potentially damaged your wheel.

Mark the centre with a punch, then drill a pilot hole, no deeper than the flange so use one of the good bolts to measure, then gradually increase the size of your drill bit until you are within about 1mm of the shaft diameter - give the wheel a quick kick and it should just fall off if it hasn't already failed

Use sharp drill bits, keep them oiled and be patient, don't try and jump too many sizes at once.

When the wheel is away from the car, remove the stud with either a mole wrench or one of the aforementioned Irwin sockets

HTH

 

[jaymanek]

Irwins wont get into the hole... I have tried that.

Best thing is to drill patiently..

 

[proser]

Irwins wont get into the hole... I have tried that.

Best thing is to drill patiently..

have a set, tried and failed

drilling out on Sunday, if the wife goes and gets the new bolts from the dealer

 

[proser]

if you can get them in the gap, a set of Irwin sockets will do the job, but if space is tight then you may have to drill the flange first then use an extractor to pull the stud out.

Drilling the flange shouldn't be too scary as you don't need to be 100% accurate on the centering (the nearer you are the better but it's not critical) as the metal will fail due to stress before yo have drilled all the way through and potentially damaged your wheel.

Mark the centre with a punch, then drill a pilot hole, no deeper than the flange so use one of the good bolts to measure, then gradually increase the size of your drill bit until you are within about 1mm of the shaft diameter - give the wheel a quick kick and it should just fall off if it hasn't already failed

Use sharp drill bits, keep them oiled and be patient, don't try and jump too many sizes at once.

When the wheel is away from the car, remove the stud with either a mole wrench or one of the aforementioned Irwin sockets

HTH

It's not just the flange that is left, but also the whole stud, minus the hex head.
Will be drilling out with 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 13mm and then a good kick of the wheel . Then take remains out with grips

 

[BlackC55]

I very much doubt a stud extractor will do the job. I would expect to drill them out.

 

[jonnyboy]

Now that i know which type of bolts they are, i'm sorry to report that the one i had like that, i had to cut the wheel off

 

[Aoraki]

Numpties when they fitted winter tyres to the rear

Personally I would be knocking on the tyre fitter’s door with this one