V12
MB Enthusiast
I bought my car with the glovebox stuck shut and know this to be a relatively common problem as the cars get older.
Searching the forum didn't turn up any results and the document on WIS was totally useless.
My Glovebox was also all loose and just didn't line up with the lines of the dash at all. I know these warp and lose their shape over time, but i knew it could be adjusted to some degree.
The pictures and method described are specifically from my experience with my W220, but the technique of some parts could be very similar to other models.
Tools needed :
Flat screwdriver
Short Phillips screwdriver
Small torx pieces
1. We need to get the glovebox open without breaking anything.
- Open Passengers door fully.
- Remove Fuse panel cover on end of dashboard (pry out towards the door until 2 clips release then pull back towards back of car. I have plastic trim tools, but a flat screwdriver will work equally well provided you're careful)
- Straighten coat hanger and make a 5-10mm hook on the end.
- Shine torch in end of dashboard so you know what to aim for, look for the white plastic wheel as a reference point.
- Get the hook located as pictured and pull forward towards the engine. (alternatively you can hook under the cable and twist it upwards.)
This is a fiddly bit, took me approx 10-15 mins of feeling around to get it.
2. Remove Glovebox
- With your flat screwdriver pop off the 4 plastic cover on top of the 4 screws inside the glovebox. 2 on bottom, 2 on top.
- Undo screws with phillips. Make sure you remove the srews completely (a good magnetic screwdriver helps here)
- Pull the top of the glovebox out first. You will need to push the top lip down as you pull it out. Once the top two plastic lugs clear the opening, you should be able to lift the bottom out very easily.
3. Adjust opening cable
- Basically you want more tension on the opening cable. Turn the white plastic adjuster 1/4 turn anti clockwise if looking straight from the front of the glovebox. You may need to adjust yours more or less. I ended up with approx 1/2 a turn so that mine opened perfectly. See picture for direction you would have to push screwdriver to adjust cable tighter
- Open and close the box a few times to make sure you are completely happy with the operation. (note. this is not a true test of exactly what it will be like back in situ as the cable has more tension while it is out of the dash. It's better for it to be tighter. If it's too tight your box wont close, but if it's too loose it wont open!)
- Once i was pretty confident i quickly pushed the box back into the dash to give it a better test.
4. Adjust the closed fitment of the door.
- First of all my door was just very loose everywhere and wasn't flush with the dash. I needed to tighten the catch. In the following picture you can see the catch layout again, look for the 2 little torx screws in front of the white plastic adjuster. Loosen these off and slide the catch assembly further forward towards the engine. Tighten these gently as they just screw into plastic. I moved the catch approx 10mm further back into the glovebox.
- Now the door was flush against the dash in the middle but slightly twisted at the ends. N/s was sitting proud of dash and O/s was slightly recessed.
With phillips screwdriver turn the top left or top right adjuster screws clockwise if you want the panel to sit further in to the dash or anti clockwise if you want the panel to come out further.
Here's the front of the adjuster at top right
And a side shot of it, showing the thread.
Refit in reverse order. Bottom in first, squeeze front top down to clear dash opening.
One last adjustment available to you which is a little more minor but can just tighten the whole thing up to fit perfectly. You'll notice that if you put the screws in loosely, you can move the box in and out a little. Adjust the box in or out and then tighten the screws. You may have to tighten, close the lid and check and re adjust.
Refit plastic caps on screws and admire your work.
Wish i had taken a before shot, it was shocking! Still not perfect, but the door must be slightly warped!
Searching the forum didn't turn up any results and the document on WIS was totally useless.
My Glovebox was also all loose and just didn't line up with the lines of the dash at all. I know these warp and lose their shape over time, but i knew it could be adjusted to some degree.
The pictures and method described are specifically from my experience with my W220, but the technique of some parts could be very similar to other models.
Tools needed :
Flat screwdriver
Short Phillips screwdriver
Small torx pieces
1. We need to get the glovebox open without breaking anything.
- Open Passengers door fully.
- Remove Fuse panel cover on end of dashboard (pry out towards the door until 2 clips release then pull back towards back of car. I have plastic trim tools, but a flat screwdriver will work equally well provided you're careful)
- Straighten coat hanger and make a 5-10mm hook on the end.
- Shine torch in end of dashboard so you know what to aim for, look for the white plastic wheel as a reference point.
- Get the hook located as pictured and pull forward towards the engine. (alternatively you can hook under the cable and twist it upwards.)
This is a fiddly bit, took me approx 10-15 mins of feeling around to get it.
2. Remove Glovebox
- With your flat screwdriver pop off the 4 plastic cover on top of the 4 screws inside the glovebox. 2 on bottom, 2 on top.
- Undo screws with phillips. Make sure you remove the srews completely (a good magnetic screwdriver helps here)
- Pull the top of the glovebox out first. You will need to push the top lip down as you pull it out. Once the top two plastic lugs clear the opening, you should be able to lift the bottom out very easily.
3. Adjust opening cable
- Basically you want more tension on the opening cable. Turn the white plastic adjuster 1/4 turn anti clockwise if looking straight from the front of the glovebox. You may need to adjust yours more or less. I ended up with approx 1/2 a turn so that mine opened perfectly. See picture for direction you would have to push screwdriver to adjust cable tighter
- Open and close the box a few times to make sure you are completely happy with the operation. (note. this is not a true test of exactly what it will be like back in situ as the cable has more tension while it is out of the dash. It's better for it to be tighter. If it's too tight your box wont close, but if it's too loose it wont open!)
- Once i was pretty confident i quickly pushed the box back into the dash to give it a better test.
4. Adjust the closed fitment of the door.
- First of all my door was just very loose everywhere and wasn't flush with the dash. I needed to tighten the catch. In the following picture you can see the catch layout again, look for the 2 little torx screws in front of the white plastic adjuster. Loosen these off and slide the catch assembly further forward towards the engine. Tighten these gently as they just screw into plastic. I moved the catch approx 10mm further back into the glovebox.
- Now the door was flush against the dash in the middle but slightly twisted at the ends. N/s was sitting proud of dash and O/s was slightly recessed.
With phillips screwdriver turn the top left or top right adjuster screws clockwise if you want the panel to sit further in to the dash or anti clockwise if you want the panel to come out further.
Here's the front of the adjuster at top right
And a side shot of it, showing the thread.
Refit in reverse order. Bottom in first, squeeze front top down to clear dash opening.
One last adjustment available to you which is a little more minor but can just tighten the whole thing up to fit perfectly. You'll notice that if you put the screws in loosely, you can move the box in and out a little. Adjust the box in or out and then tighten the screws. You may have to tighten, close the lid and check and re adjust.
Refit plastic caps on screws and admire your work.
Wish i had taken a before shot, it was shocking! Still not perfect, but the door must be slightly warped!
