samuelellis
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2003
- Messages
- 303
- Location
- West Yorkshire :D
- Car
- rover 218 diesel k reg (want a merc but cant afford)
Dunno if you lot want this but hey, it took a hour so I don’t have to wash the car today (yippee 
)
First of all some urban myths about ICE. Everyone seems to think that it is the baseball capped nova driver with ICE, wrong. Just like anyithg there are different sections of ice they are
Mr/mrs average – they just want say a cd player to replace there tape deck or sommat just that bit better
SQ – sq stands for sound quality, people in this category do allsorts to get the greatest sound in there car (use home audio drovers/horn tweeters/interior modifitcations for the greatest speaker position)
SQL – this is a mixture of sq & spl
SPL – someone who builds a spl car is after the greatest volume at a set frequency so they use big woofers, lots of amps, high box tuning so they can make there car really really (as in cant sit in the vehicle) loud for the few seconds that it takes to get the reading, these vehicles often have no rear seats.
Streetbass – streetbass is kind of like spl but they don’t push the system to the edge & back, they tune low so there systems produce that low low bass that rattles yoru change in your pocket from 10 feet away, again these vehicles may not have back seats anymore to make space for the speaker enclosure (streetbass & spl can sometimes switch by the use of interchangeable ports)
Kev – this is the image of car audio we all know & want to insert the exaust of there rusted nova into some of there bodily orrofaces. They usually have a install screaming brands like splx, vibe, sony etc etc. the kev system is not lout but it is distorted so it sounds loud & it travels unfortunately so people turn & look at there car.
The basics of a ice install
The head unit – this is the part where your cd’s tapes etc go in, some have a inbuilt amp, ignore the power claims they are absoloute rubbish, you may get 13-20 rms before the distortion kicks in
Speakers – there are two types of speakers, coaxial & component, the co-axial speakers are generally more efficient so play better off a head unit amp as there is no power sapping crossover in the way. The benefits of coaxials are that they have the tweeter in the centre so you have a perfect drover (tweeter & mid unit want to be as close together) the co-axials downfall is that manufacturers don’t usually make them as well as component speakers but for under a hundred pounds co-axials are yoru best bet. Components are generally made to a better standard and sound better for it as long as they are getting a good clean source.
Now we get to the fun stuff
Subwoofers – we all know the subwofer & I personally feel that it is a worth addition to any car. There are two main types active or passive, basically the active subs have the amp & the sub all in one box. Usually with subwoofers there are different options you can have enclosure wise but I will cover that later.
Amplifers – the amplifiers main job is to well amplify, nothing much needs to be said except ignore the maximum output & look for the RMS rating that will give you a idea of the actuall power the amp can deliver
Buying the kit – the questions you have to ask are will this work together, usually the answer is yes but there are a few pitfalls to look out for
-When buying a sub check its voice coils, is it a single or a double voicecoil, what si the ohms rating, if you have a single voice coil 2 ohm sub then you have to have a amp that can produce the power at 2 ohms if you have a dual 2 ohm sub then you have a choice, wire it up to show the amp one ohm or wire ti up to show 4 ohm (the lower the ohmage the more power the amp will produce but you need to know what ohamage the amp is stable to as some will shut down if you put too low a ohamge on it)
-where to put the crossover on component speakers, me personally, I mount them in the boot & run 2 lenths of wire to the front doors
-will I need any adapters, some naufacturers, heck some models may require wiring adapaters or fascia adapters to make your new head unit fit & work
if there si enough interest I will continue & keep adding to this thread
)First of all some urban myths about ICE. Everyone seems to think that it is the baseball capped nova driver with ICE, wrong. Just like anyithg there are different sections of ice they are
Mr/mrs average – they just want say a cd player to replace there tape deck or sommat just that bit better
SQ – sq stands for sound quality, people in this category do allsorts to get the greatest sound in there car (use home audio drovers/horn tweeters/interior modifitcations for the greatest speaker position)
SQL – this is a mixture of sq & spl
SPL – someone who builds a spl car is after the greatest volume at a set frequency so they use big woofers, lots of amps, high box tuning so they can make there car really really (as in cant sit in the vehicle) loud for the few seconds that it takes to get the reading, these vehicles often have no rear seats.
Streetbass – streetbass is kind of like spl but they don’t push the system to the edge & back, they tune low so there systems produce that low low bass that rattles yoru change in your pocket from 10 feet away, again these vehicles may not have back seats anymore to make space for the speaker enclosure (streetbass & spl can sometimes switch by the use of interchangeable ports)
Kev – this is the image of car audio we all know & want to insert the exaust of there rusted nova into some of there bodily orrofaces. They usually have a install screaming brands like splx, vibe, sony etc etc. the kev system is not lout but it is distorted so it sounds loud & it travels unfortunately so people turn & look at there car.
The basics of a ice install
The head unit – this is the part where your cd’s tapes etc go in, some have a inbuilt amp, ignore the power claims they are absoloute rubbish, you may get 13-20 rms before the distortion kicks in
Speakers – there are two types of speakers, coaxial & component, the co-axial speakers are generally more efficient so play better off a head unit amp as there is no power sapping crossover in the way. The benefits of coaxials are that they have the tweeter in the centre so you have a perfect drover (tweeter & mid unit want to be as close together) the co-axials downfall is that manufacturers don’t usually make them as well as component speakers but for under a hundred pounds co-axials are yoru best bet. Components are generally made to a better standard and sound better for it as long as they are getting a good clean source.
Now we get to the fun stuff
Subwoofers – we all know the subwofer & I personally feel that it is a worth addition to any car. There are two main types active or passive, basically the active subs have the amp & the sub all in one box. Usually with subwoofers there are different options you can have enclosure wise but I will cover that later.
Amplifers – the amplifiers main job is to well amplify, nothing much needs to be said except ignore the maximum output & look for the RMS rating that will give you a idea of the actuall power the amp can deliver
Buying the kit – the questions you have to ask are will this work together, usually the answer is yes but there are a few pitfalls to look out for
-When buying a sub check its voice coils, is it a single or a double voicecoil, what si the ohms rating, if you have a single voice coil 2 ohm sub then you have to have a amp that can produce the power at 2 ohms if you have a dual 2 ohm sub then you have a choice, wire it up to show the amp one ohm or wire ti up to show 4 ohm (the lower the ohmage the more power the amp will produce but you need to know what ohamage the amp is stable to as some will shut down if you put too low a ohamge on it)
-where to put the crossover on component speakers, me personally, I mount them in the boot & run 2 lenths of wire to the front doors
-will I need any adapters, some naufacturers, heck some models may require wiring adapaters or fascia adapters to make your new head unit fit & work
if there si enough interest I will continue & keep adding to this thread
anyway he recomeneded i should put 4 x midrange speakers in rear shelf and will get much better sound then installing 6.5" subs at the back... bass junkies tell me somthing different and offered to fit 2 x 6.5" rockford frosgate subs and 150watt amp and component speakers for rear door and front doors..... so now am even more confused then before!!!! still find it hard to believe that my mates crappy corsa sounds so much better then mine with his 6x 9's 
any way if anyone has any sugestions let me know....
