Loss of turbo boost and transmission kickdown

[derekpayne]

Hi

Over the weekend I had 2 instances where I lost turbo boost and the gearbox would not kick down, although it would change down when it was ready itself. Both faults appeared in similar conditions - I was travelling at 70 mph with cruise control on, going down an incline with an equal uphill incline ahead, as soon as I started to climb I felt the subtle loss of power and no kickdown, I stopped at the next available parking bay, switched the engine off and removed the key, waited about 10 seconds, restarted the engine and carried on as normal with no more faults, there were no warning lights on the dash.

This has happened before but probably over a year ago and never twice in 2 days like this. The rest of both journeys were trouble free. The vehicle is CLS 320 2008 model. Any thoughts on this would be helpfull. I previously repaired the turbo actuator where a couple of the wires had broken but this caused engine management light to come on and it went into limp mode, similar to this.

Cheers

Derek

 

[Tonygw]

Maybe the start of a split boost pipe to or from the intercooler? Only way to know is to wait until the fault manifests it self permanently, or get a code reader or STAR diagnostic to see if there are any pending codes which might hint towards the problem.

 

[derekpayne]

Done a scan of the codes:

P0299 - Turbocharger/Supercharger underboost
P1101 - Manufacture Control (whatever that is?)
P2A00 - O2 sensor circuit range/performance bank 1 sensor 1 (I presume that is the Lambda sensor)

 

[derekpayne]

 

[W1ghty]

What mileage are you buddy ?
I would like you have guessed actuator which may be worth another check , but those symptoms also crop up with the inlet port motor/swirl flaps sticking , the orange turbo seal on the front of the batwing leaks oil onto the ilps motor which starts to fail , or the swirl flaps which live in the intake manifolds also start to jam because of an oily gunk which builds up .
A 4.7k ohm resistor can be placed into the ilps motor electrical plug (costs a £1 and takes an hour to diy)
this would at least tell you if it’s the ilps/swirl flaps .
If the fault continues after putting the resistor in then maybe it’s the actuato/turbo again ?
Im coming at this from a diy perspective, I have the same engine and have had similar faults and I’m happy to tinker myself to learn and save money .

 

[derekpayne]

Yeah I thought maybe I need to do that mod again, I did it once before but removed it a couple of months ago to see if it makes any difference, i'll have to redo it, just remind me is it the 2 centre connections on the plug that the resistor connects?

The one thing that made me remove it before was are the flaps open or closed with the mod in place and how can I tell which position they are in?

Cheers

 

[W1ghty]

Yeah I thought maybe I need to do that mod again, I did it once before but removed it a couple of months ago to see if it makes any difference, i'll have to redo it, just remind me is it the 2 centre connections on the plug that the resistor connects?

The one thing that made me remove it before was are the flaps open or closed with the mod in place and how can I tell which position they are in?

Cheers

Yep , middle 2 slots , then tape the resistor up so it doesn’t touch any metal . The theory I believe is that if the flaps are working correctly which sounds like yours are because the car resets itself when you turn it off . I believe they are open when the resistor is put in and they stay in this position .
At least trying this will give you more pointers as to where the fault is ?

 

[W1ghty]

Current mileage ?

 

[mersum1es]

Hybrid propulsion? Whatta heck is that---

 

[unclebuck]

Check my thread finally found mine, sneaky fkn pipe.... its all @W1ghty fault!! lol

 

[W1ghty]

Check my thread finally found mine, sneaky fkn pipe.... its all @W1ghty fault!! lol

Just seen your thread , good fix buddy . Do you think in this case it’s not a pipe because the fault is intermittent??

 

[unclebuck]

Mine is a combination of the turbo being coked up and sticky and the pipes finally giving out, i think that the increased pressure from the new turbo was the final straw for the pipes.

Personally I think the thread poster needs to pull the pipes and clean then and squeeze the crap out of them twist them as well, if there is a tear in the pipe thats not showing yet it will appear.

However the car is like mine a 2008, its time pipes were replaced, seals replaced, the front egr pipe needs to come off and be cleaned out, egr off and cleaned, i had the 02 error not long after having the car i did the sensor in the exhaust, and all the other sensors as they hadnt been done.

gutted my swirl flap motor was ok and i opened it up, however a new one is going on with all new clips, I am still considering draining the coolant and taking the manifolds off for cleaning and new swirl flap rods.

For now im good just gotta order the bits i need.

Mine was in and out of boost like the OP so its up to hime how far he wants to go with his.

 

[derekpayne]

I put the resistor back in, so far no issues but havnt been very far yet.