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ml270 cdi HELP

big_amg

Active Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
208
Location
London
Car
E320 CDI Avantgarde
Seems like im not having the best start to ml ownership!

Having spent 3 hours replacing thermostat and oil change, took her out for a drive and although the temperature issue is resolved I notice no more kickdown and loss of power. She drove absolutely perfect before. Any ideas what may have caused this? I did take the engine covers off again and I seem to have reattached all pipes sensors etc. How annoying!
 
Any warning lights
How's battery voltage
 
No lights. Not sure about battery voltage although it took a while to start after thermostat change
 
Yes check fit low voltage and if you disconnected the battery that all is connected again

Correctly
 
I never disconnected the battery. Is this quite normal after a thermostat change?
 
No but a low battery will drive the ecu mad for a bit then settle down

No light s showing and your sure all connections are back on under the bonnet correctly

My only other thought is brake light switch what year is the ml
 
Its a 2003. Just found an unplugged sensor wrapped around the turbo pipe which I plugged in but no change to drive. Everything else looks ok. Battery voltage is above 12.
 
Ran a quick diagnostic and the following came up
P1636 current and stored fault
P1403 current and stored fault
P1470 stored fault
P0100 stored fault

Mean anything?
 
I have cleared them all and will run another test layer to see if there's any change.
 
How old is the battery? Did you have all or any of the doors open while doin the change? If so the interior lights can drain battery.
Be sure the car has been bled properly. The alternators are watercooled so take some coolant.
 
How old is the battery? Did you have all or any of the doors open while doin the change? If so the interior lights can drain battery.
Been sure the car has been bled properly. The alternators are watercooled so take some coolant.

Not had the car long so dont know but it does look fairly new. I didnt do any bleeding. What is the best way of bleeding the system. the doors were closed anyhow the interior lights don't work so I doubt thats the problem. Also the voltage seems ok on a multimeter.
 
The best way I found to bleed it is to start car, turn heaters on full speed and full heat, leave cap off expansion tank and squeeze top hose.
You will know when it's bled as the air from the vents will be hot and the level in the expansion tank will stay at the same level.
 
The best way I found to bleed it is to start car, turn heaters on full speed and full heat, leave cap off expansion tank and squeeze top hose.
You will know when it's bled as the air from the vents will be hot and the level in the expansion tank will stay at the same level.

Do you believe this is the cause of the loss of power?
 
Another possible cause that happened on my ML was the MAF sensor which also causes loss of power and no kickdown.
 
any update on her
 
Nothing yet. Going to do another diagnostic tomorrow and see if there's any new faults. Will bleed cooking system tomorrow and see.
 
Will take a look after work this evening. Can't wait to get this sorted!
 
Ok, just ran another diagnosis after clearing everything yesterday and driving for a couple of miles. The results are as follows:

P1636-008 electric suction fan open circuit CURRENT AND STORED
P1403-032 exhaust recirculation positive control variation [exhaust gas recirculation rate is too low] STORED
P1470-016 charge pressure control positive control variation [charge pressure is too low] CURRENT AND STORED

What's the difference between the stored faults and the current and stored fault? What do these mean in plain English? Any ideas?
 
Stored one has occurred but then resolved itself. Current is on just right now, so they cannot be erased either.
You may have troubles with fan control unit or regulator pack.

Then I would suspect EGR function :D (check the actuation of the EGR valve, clean if needed)
 

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