chilsta
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2010
- Messages
- 105
- Car
- '94 S124 E300D
I recently joined the forum as I've been sent to it by Google numerous times of late when searching for solutions to sort out issues with my new car.
Just bought a 1990 W124 300TD which I'm very happy with. I've already sorted out a few issues, and have some more to take care of, but nothing urgent- it drives great and the important stuff is working.
The car's done just over 200,000 miles but seems to have been well looked after. All of the filters look to have been recently changed with genuine Mercedes items, but I am replacing all filters and fluids as a matter of course so I know where I am with things.
The paint's good apart from a few patches near the front of the bonnet where the clearcoat's started to part with the base.
The windscreen looks to be original and is starting to delaminate and go white in some places around the edge.
It's equipped with cruise control and temp gauge, but no A/C, airbags, electric stuff (other than the windows & roof, both with the total closure feature) or 7 seat option. Having discovered that the rearmost hatch in the back floor is lockable, and not planning on carrying more than 5 people around, I'm glad that I don't have the 7 seat option. I can always retrofit one should the need ever arise.
The interior is cream MB Tex and is in great condition. There's a tiny nick in the armrest and headlining and the carpet could do with a good clean, but apart from that the inside pretty much looks like it's brand new.
Everything seems present except for the valet key, wallet key and toolkit. The warning triangle and first aid kit both look untouched. Amazing considering it's 20 years old.
Maintenance completed so far
Replaced all fuses in main fusebox
New inline fuel filter
New tail bulbs
Stereo Head Unit
Oil & filter change
Fuel Gauge
Cheers
Marcus
Just bought a 1990 W124 300TD which I'm very happy with. I've already sorted out a few issues, and have some more to take care of, but nothing urgent- it drives great and the important stuff is working.
The car's done just over 200,000 miles but seems to have been well looked after. All of the filters look to have been recently changed with genuine Mercedes items, but I am replacing all filters and fluids as a matter of course so I know where I am with things.
The paint's good apart from a few patches near the front of the bonnet where the clearcoat's started to part with the base.
The windscreen looks to be original and is starting to delaminate and go white in some places around the edge.
It's equipped with cruise control and temp gauge, but no A/C, airbags, electric stuff (other than the windows & roof, both with the total closure feature) or 7 seat option. Having discovered that the rearmost hatch in the back floor is lockable, and not planning on carrying more than 5 people around, I'm glad that I don't have the 7 seat option. I can always retrofit one should the need ever arise.
The interior is cream MB Tex and is in great condition. There's a tiny nick in the armrest and headlining and the carpet could do with a good clean, but apart from that the inside pretty much looks like it's brand new.
Everything seems present except for the valet key, wallet key and toolkit. The warning triangle and first aid kit both look untouched. Amazing considering it's 20 years old.
Maintenance completed so far
Replaced all fuses in main fusebox
These all appeared to be original and were badly corroded. Original fuse info card was still in the fusebox lid. Couldn't find copper fuses locally other than the 25A (blue) ones. Will replace the regular ones if I track some copper red or white down.
New air filter
New inline fuel filter
New tail bulbs
originals were black/silvered, this used to happen regularly in my 190D until I changed them from the regular 10W to the 21W bulbs that are used for the turn & stop. Not sure why this happens
Work completed so far
Stereo Head Unit
PO told me the Blaupunkt was original, but the original paperwork and instructions that came with the car were for a different (better) model than fitted. It worked OK, but I enjoy being able to play MP3 CDs and have a line-in from my phone for random playing on long journeys. When removed I discovered the original plug was still connected to one wire (turned out to be the illumination), the others had been cut and spade connectors crimped. New loom connected by crimps and working great.
Repair central locking
Was only working from passenger door. Passenger door was opening and closing all 5 doors so was pretty sure it was an electrical issue. Found there was power and a good ground at the driver's door lock switch. Checked for continuity in the blue (signal) wire between the switch and the vacuum pump under the back seat and found there was none. Took up front driver's side carpet and discovered part of an aftermarket alarm module wired in and stashed in the plastic trunking that runs along the sill. Sure enough, the blue wire had been cut and each end of it had been connected to different wires of the alarm module (for keyless entry I would guess). Cut the aftermarket stuff out and butt-crimped the blue wire back together. Problem solved.
Dash illumination
Various bulbs were out. I replaced the gear shifter illumination & blower direction knob bulbs. I tried LED replacements (less drain, longer life) but they were too bright in comparison with the rest of the dash lighting and the light was too blue. Back to regular incandescents for now.
Now need to find how to replace the bulbs in the side vent open/closed illumination (if they are supposed to be illuminated- I guess they are as the centre one is)
Centre console window switches for rear windowsNow need to find how to replace the bulbs in the side vent open/closed illumination (if they are supposed to be illuminated- I guess they are as the centre one is)
These weren't working, but the switches on the doors were fine so I knew the motors & mechs were good. One worked for a second when I was switching it repeatedly.
Removed switches, sprayed full of switch cleaner and repeatedly switched them to clean the contacts. Sorted.
Rear window demister & washer switchesRemoved switches, sprayed full of switch cleaner and repeatedly switched them to clean the contacts. Sorted.
The rear washer and heated rear window switches didn't do anything and the HRW yellow LED was stuck on. Removed and cleaned both switches without luck. After searching online I concluded the problem probably lay in the multirelay (part # 201 821 00 47, located just behind the main fusebox). Cleaned its contacts without luck. Bought one second hand on eBay, fitted and all working well.
Rear Seats
I'd read that these can get stuck and read various posts with solutions. The problem is mainly due to the rear seats not having been moved for a while.
I found that after removing the seat bottom they wouldn't slide back onto their metal posts. This was solved by covering the 4 folding posts with a thin layer of grease.
I still couldn't get the backs to fold down. I sprayed the locking mechanisms in the middle that are deactivated when you lift the seat bottoms with oil, and inside the black mechanism which gets pushed in when the rear door closes. These seemed to be the problem- after a liberal spraying and working the mechanism in and out a few times both seat backs are folding down with a slight tug, which I think is how they're meant to be.
Removed old mobile phone mountI found that after removing the seat bottom they wouldn't slide back onto their metal posts. This was solved by covering the 4 folding posts with a thin layer of grease.
I still couldn't get the backs to fold down. I sprayed the locking mechanisms in the middle that are deactivated when you lift the seat bottoms with oil, and inside the black mechanism which gets pushed in when the rear door closes. These seemed to be the problem- after a liberal spraying and working the mechanism in and out a few times both seat backs are folding down with a slight tug, which I think is how they're meant to be.
The mounting was attached to the glove compartment door by a very strong, putty-like adhesive. I was worried about it pulling the trim on the door off, or at least damaging it, but pulling it up very slowly and surely and at a shallow angle got it off fine. Just needs a good clean of the surrounding area as it's left a slight discolouration which I hope isn't permanent.
Rear wiper arm
In operation the arm wasn't applying enough pressure towards the outside of the blade to clear the screen. This appeared to be due to the hinge surfaces being so badly corroded that the spring's pressure wasn't making it through to the arm, it was very stiff to pull the arm up.
The wiper end had some pretty severe surface rust too. Oiled & greased the hinge- repeated hinging has freed the joint up and it appears to be OK now. Sanded to bare metal, used some black metal paint. Yet to fix back on the car and test, but expecting it will work OK and look better.
Will be looking out for an original replacement.
Fluids to doThe wiper end had some pretty severe surface rust too. Oiled & greased the hinge- repeated hinging has freed the joint up and it appears to be OK now. Sanded to bare metal, used some black metal paint. Yet to fix back on the car and test, but expecting it will work OK and look better.
Will be looking out for an original replacement.
Oil & filter change
Will be taking advantage of Halford's current Mobil 1 offer and get the 0w40 Turbodiesel oil as it's nearly a tenner off.
Will be done as soon as I can borrow my brother's electric pump-the truly effortless and clean way to change your oil- just stick the pump's hose down the dipstick hole and put the other hose into an old oil container for taking down the dump later. Doesn't get much lazier!
Break fluidWill be done as soon as I can borrow my brother's electric pump-the truly effortless and clean way to change your oil- just stick the pump's hose down the dipstick hole and put the other hose into an old oil container for taking down the dump later. Doesn't get much lazier!
Scared of breaking bleed nipples, so will be spraying them all with light oil and will attempt while at a mate's workshop in case calliper tapping & new nipples is required.
Power steering fluid change
Have bought oil from MB and will be changing soon, probably using this method:
Easy Power Steering Fluid Change | W124-Zone.com - A Mercedes W124 Resource Site
otherwise using a syringe and sucking out as much old oil as possible before replacing with new
Flush & refill cooling system.Easy Power Steering Fluid Change | W124-Zone.com - A Mercedes W124 Resource Site
otherwise using a syringe and sucking out as much old oil as possible before replacing with new
Will backflush rad then drain and flush block.
Have bought 5 litres of MB coolant- car requires 4.5 so will have some for future top-ups or a -30' winter (I hope that's a joke).
New fuel filterHave bought 5 litres of MB coolant- car requires 4.5 so will have some for future top-ups or a -30' winter (I hope that's a joke).
This is currently a bit of a mystery to me- I know how to undo the filter, but it doesn't look like there's any clearance to actually get the old filter out and the new one in. Will probably all become apparent when I try it as everywhere I've looked just says to swap it with no gotchas mentioned. Could always wait until I do the coolant as I can just take the top rad hose off to make things easy.
Diesel Purge
Will do this at the same time as the fuel filter change.
Work to do
Fuel Gauge
When I bought the car I thought the PO had been generous and left me half a tank of Diesel. A couple of miles later and the warning light was on! I also found another sender in the glove box. Took the door off and lining out of the forward hatch in the rear deck above the fuel tank. Plugged spare sender into car and when the right way up the gauge was still only at just under the half way mark. Tried running a separate ground wire to the sender's connection in case it was due to a bad ground, but still the same. Next thing is to check the resistance at the gauge, but my thoughts are that the gauge itself has gone. At least I have a rough idea where the empty mark is and a working warning light, so no mad rush to fix.
Veggie oil conversion
Will be going down a simpler route than the Elsbett conversion I had in my 190D. Probably single tank and just a heat exchanger and larger axillary fuel filter with the standard filter bypassed and a switch so that the standard can be used in case the axillary gets blocked.
Hatch lock
I was given 2 keys with the car (one looks original, the other is plated brass). Neither of them turns the lock in the hatch at all.
Rear washer leak
Having fixed the electrical problem that was stopping the rear screen wash pump from working (new multirelay), I found water running down the driver's side D pillar after the washer had been pumping. Seems to be a common problem due to the pipe splitting where it flexes going through the hatch hinge. Found 2 useful posts which will help sort this out:
W124 Estate rear washer hose leak/repair - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
300TE rear window washer hose - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
Blown bulb indicator is on, but bulbs are workingW124 Estate rear washer hose leak/repair - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
300TE rear window washer hose - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
I replaced the tail bulbs as they were black/silvered hoping that would fix the problem, but alas not.
Having done some searching I found that the system works by comparing the current draw between the 2 sides. If there's a difference, the warning illuminates.
The warning comes on as soon as I turn the light switch to the first position, so I know it's either the sidelights, tails or number plates. Tails already replaced, but will spray the contacts with switch cleaner. I'll then check the wattage of the number plate and sidelight bulbs.
RoofHaving done some searching I found that the system works by comparing the current draw between the 2 sides. If there's a difference, the warning illuminates.
The warning comes on as soon as I turn the light switch to the first position, so I know it's either the sidelights, tails or number plates. Tails already replaced, but will spray the contacts with switch cleaner. I'll then check the wattage of the number plate and sidelight bulbs.
No sign of movement from the roof. PO said he'd only had it open a couple of times and the last time a piece of rubber got caught in the roof when he tried to close it and hadn't tried it since. He suggested it might be a fuse, but still no sign of life after changing them all. Next to check is that power's getting to the motor, then the switch. I might try manually opening the roof using the emergency method and see if there's any movement.
Cruise control
First few times I tried it the car surged manically and I could feel the accelerator pedal flying up and down under my foot. Left it alone until after I'd changed all the fuses and adjusted the throttle cable. I was very pleased when it behaved faultlessly for around 30 miles- was holding a very constant speed, handled big hills, resumed and did all that it should. On my way back I tried it again looking forward to some cruising and it was back to its old way. I will be taking the CC amplifier apart and trying resoldering the joints as a dry joint seems likely now. These are the links I'll be using:
00 Miscellaneous Reference Articles
How to get to the cruise control amp - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
Cruise
Lamp lenses00 Miscellaneous Reference Articles
How to get to the cruise control amp - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
Cruise
O/S fog light and N/S rear light have small holes- can clearly see where water has got into the front fog light lens and the electrical contact on that fog is dodgy. Will get replacements, but temporarily repair with clear sealant.
N/S Rear lamp holder clip broken
A small water bottle was shoved down between the spare wheel and the back light cluster. When I removed it the lamp holder fell forward and I discovered the flexi retaining clip had broken off. Will find a used replacement.
O/S Mirror: snapped adjusting stalk and corrosion on rear edge
Tried adjusting the mirror and the stalk snapped off. This happened in my 190 after a few years too. I think in future I'll make sure the inner mechanism is well lubed so adjustment doesn't put too much stress on the metal arm.
The black corners towards the rear of the car, underneath the glass have started corroding and the metal coating is bubbling and turning white. Will replace with a used frame.
Bonnet PadThe black corners towards the rear of the car, underneath the glass have started corroding and the metal coating is bubbling and turning white. Will replace with a used frame.
Needs replacing at some point as the original is turning to dust. Quote from local MB was £70+, will try an online genuine parts supplier and see if I can get one for a more reasonable price. Otherwise, I'll go for an aftermarket alternative such as that from Second Skin (installation PDF), which may well be better anyway especially if I was to use a damping material first as they recommend (anyone compared this stuff to the factory pad?).
Alarm/ Keyless entry
The wiring for an existing system is still present. Will be easy enough to tap into the same places as the previous installer. This'll be especially useful If the hatch lock proves tricky to fix. Will get one with the total closure option as this is working correctly.
Dash Speakers
Going to see if the replacement 2 way speakers from my W201 are the same fit as the W124. If not will be looking into getting some from Rainbow, although I'm not expecting much from such small drivers.
Rear Speakers
I like music a lot and although the standard dash speakers are OK when the car's parked, the bass is virtually inaudible at anything near motorway speed. There are no places for rear speakers (some Ts came with rear door speakers, not here though) so I'm thinking about ways to improve the sound quality in the car without losing the flexibility of the rear folding seats and loading area and ideally without cutting anything or doing anything irreversible. Currently leaning towards 2 separate carpeted boxes that are either fixed to the luggage strapdown points or held down with hook & loops. This will give mounting flexibility and also mean that I can run the speakers out of the car when camping in the summer. Will be looking into options.
Wheels
I've got a set of 18" rims that I ran on the 190 for a while. I've also got a set of 16" MB 8 holes, which will probably be what I end up with, although I'll give the 18s a try.
Bodywork
The Wings
The car came with 2 replacement front wings. I will get these well protected and painted before replacing the current wings. Some good info on this page about replacing the wings:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/mbclub-projects/70769-c124-refurbish-7.html
Weird holes
Strangely there were 2 rectangular holes that had been cut. 1 each side under the driver and passenger's feet. They're just through the outer skin where the front chassis rails join to the floorpan.
The PO said he had no knowledge of them, but checking the DVLA MoT online checker he was given an advisory about them at the last MoT (no advisory was with the MoT cert in the paperwork). It said that they weren't structural and not a problem. Strange though and will get them plated over and sealed.
The dent
There's a small dent in the rear hatch just under the rear window. No visible paint damage so no urgency. Will see if this can be repaired without painting.
Rust I've discovered:
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is about all I can think of at the moment. Will update this thread with what happens and how I get on with the car.The car came with 2 replacement front wings. I will get these well protected and painted before replacing the current wings. Some good info on this page about replacing the wings:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/mbclub-projects/70769-c124-refurbish-7.html
Weird holes
Strangely there were 2 rectangular holes that had been cut. 1 each side under the driver and passenger's feet. They're just through the outer skin where the front chassis rails join to the floorpan.
The PO said he had no knowledge of them, but checking the DVLA MoT online checker he was given an advisory about them at the last MoT (no advisory was with the MoT cert in the paperwork). It said that they weren't structural and not a problem. Strange though and will get them plated over and sealed.
The dent
There's a small dent in the rear hatch just under the rear window. No visible paint damage so no urgency. Will see if this can be repaired without painting.
Rust I've discovered:
- Front wings- standard
- Side of the bonnet, there's a rubber strip at the front of the bonnet and there's rust behind that on the driver's side
- Couple of tiny rust patches around the rear arches
- Couple of tiny surface patches under the loading area panel/ carpet either side of the self levelling spheres
- Evidence of rust starting inside the car underneath the driver's side rearmost window, almost in line with the aerial
- Looks like there might be a tiny patch next to the Mercedes emblem on the rear hatch- could be were someone's put a screwdriver or similar under to steal the emblem. Need to investigate further
Cheers
Marcus