o/s rear damper replacement

[Sickpuppy e220]

hi guys,
i just wondered if anyone knew off hand just how bad or big a job it is to replace a rear shock on a e220 w124.
she is starting to feel a little bouncy at the rear when desending from speed humps, at any speed.
although this is not noticable on normal roads at all; even when cornering.
dreaded MOT is due shortly and i would love her to fly through first time, this is the only thing i can see that could let her down (touch wood).

could this be a diy job for little me with basic mechanical skills, or best done in the garage, and also any ideas on price of parts,
i seem to remember being told a while ago to always replace shocks in pairs, or could that be springs??? (only 35 and altziemers is kicking in already, such a shame lol)

any helpfull comments greatfully recieved,
Dan

 

[renault12ts]

Easy DIY job. Replace them in pairs. Costs will be in Eurocarparts site.

 

[Sickpuppy e220]

Cheers mate.
I just wasn't sure of how bad it would be.
Only really done macphearson struts before and they are hard work lol.
To be honest I have never actually looked at the rear setup on my Merc.
Dan

 

[grober]

Easy job. Jack up the car/ support it on axle stand/blocks or similar stable platform -remove wheel- remove +unclip the lower suspension arm plastic cover [2 small self tapper screws to undo] open the boot- partly remove the trunk side lining [ this is the finicky bit of the job]- undo the top mounting nut/s noting the order of washers/rubbermounts---back underneath- undo the transverse nut/ bolt holding the shocker to the suspension arm and remove the unit. Some manuals advocate removing the anti roll bar link but I have never found this necessary. Remove the old rubber bump stop at the top of the old shocker - put it onto the new unit. Installation is the exact opposite--make sure to use a new lower bolt/ self locking nut on the bottom suspension arm 55Nm torque[usually supplied with the new shocker-bilstein certainly provide one] you may have to forcibly compress the shocker to thread the top bolt into the upper mounting hole [ needs a bit of muscle but more because its awkward] - do up the top nut/s [either 2 nuts or a locking one] loosely at this point replace the suspension arm cover -- replace wheel---- lower car--- bounce up and down to check everything OK---final tighten up the upper mount nuts mount nut 15Nm lock nut 30Nm - and replace the boot liner------ do the other side---- road test------ sorted

 

[Sickpuppy e220]

And to think I was going to pick up a Haynes manual later lol.
Very concise.
Cheers for that. Much appreciated

 

[renault12ts]

Here:

çàï÷àñòè Mercedes: êîäû çàï÷àñòåé ìåðñåäåñ

 

[Sickpuppy e220]

Many thanks guys.

I just tested the rear by forcing it down and releasing as per the mot test.
And it performed as normal up down and stop.
Yet I havent changed shocks yet. Weird as I can feel it is bouncy over speed humps lol.
Will see how mot goes next Tuesday and replace as advised I suppose. But no rush for now I think

 

[renault12ts]

Many thanks guys.

I just tested the rear by forcing it down and releasing as per the mot test.
And it performed as normal up down and stop.
Yet I havent changed shocks yet. Weird as I can feel it is bouncy over speed humps lol.
Will see how mot goes next Tuesday and replace as advised I suppose. But no rush for now I think

SP, that is less than a scientific test. Do the MOT people really do it that way?
If it's bouncy it can only be the shocks.

 

[Sickpuppy e220]

I spoke to a guy at the test Center and he says that so long as it rests after one return it is ok.
As in release. Return up. And then stop at level.
If it bounces back down then up before settling it is shot.
Otherwise it's a pass.
Mine seems to do that when standing. I don't know really why it should be tested this way but I cannot think of any other lol.
Am prepared to replace them if it fails however I can use cash toward other things in meantime.
Although I will be replacing them as a matter of course over the next couple months.