Om642 keep inlet port shut off motor delete or install a new one ?

[boxer 01]

My car went into limp mode a few days ago and I ended up carrying out the inlet port shut off motor delete to clear the fault. The dilemma as I did a lot of work on the manifolds and linkages not long ago and they were working fine I think I should replace the faulty motor.
Also I'm finding at low speeds the car is not as responsive and gear changes seem to be not quite right I don't know if it's just me but I can't stop thinking that I should bite the bullet and just go ahead and replace the motor. Is this a good idea or me being too fussy. I know it's a tricky job but doable by myself the only thing that's stopping me is the price of the damn motor. I would be interested to hear the general consensus on this topic.

 

[W1ghty]

My car went into limp mode a few days ago and I ended up carrying out the inlet port shut off motor delete to clear the fault. The dilemma as I did a lot of work on the manifolds and linkages not long ago and they were working fine I think I should replace the faulty motor.
Also I'm finding at low speeds the car is not as responsive and gear changes seem to be not quite right I don't know if it's just me but I can't stop thinking that I should bite the bullet and just go ahead and replace the motor. Is this a good idea or me being too fussy. I know it's a tricky job but doable by myself the only thing that's stopping me is the price of the damn motor. I would be interested to hear the general consensus on this topic.

I’ve had the resistor on for years now , apart from what originally felt like slightly increased engine braking when coming off the pedal , there has been no other difference
I think with my limited understanding of things , that there could be 2 issues that affect the inlet motor
1) the swirl flaps themselves are starting to jam in the gunk that is inside the inlet manifolds and require them to be removed and cleaned to stop this happening
2) The inlet motor is damaged by oil dripping on it from the orange turbo inlet seal .
If you problem is point 1 then changing the inlet motor will not help.
If it’s point 2 then it might help for a while until the inlet ports gum up in the future .
You may of course have 1&2 going on?
I would leave the resistor in if it’s all working .

 

[W1ghty]

If you were in the future to have an oil cooler seal leak , then the inlet manifolds would need to come off and could be cleaned .
At this point you could change the inlet motor , at least that’s my plan if I still have the car at this point .

 

[Bellow]

Also I'm finding at low speeds the car is not as responsive and gear changes seem to be not quite right

That's entirely due to the flaps being held open. Inferior combustion that your DPF may or may not enjoy.

I don't know if it's just me but I can't stop thinking that I should bite the bullet and just go ahead and replace the motor. Is this a good idea or me being too fussy. I know it's a tricky job but doable by myself the only thing that's stopping me is the price of the damn motor. I would be interested to hear the general consensus on this topic.

Fixing it properly is the way to go. Ignore the bodgers.

 

[W1ghty]

That's entirely due to the flaps being held open. Inferior combustion that your DPF may or may not enjoy.

Fixing it properly is the way to go. Ignore the bodgers.

He probably doesn’t have a dpf , my 2009 does not .
Proper fix , absolutely all day long but he won’t with the new inlet motor have any change out of £1200 .

 

[Bellow]

Proper fix , absolutely all day long but he won’t with the new inlet motor have any change out of £1200 .

At that price, I'd be getting my MP on the case. MB's ridiculous pricing jeopardising air quality.

 

[W1ghty]

At that price, I'd be getting my MP on the case. MB's ridiculous pricing jeopardising air quality.

I think the op is a 2007 car so that ship has sailed . It’s an 8+ hour Labour job to have the manifolds removed (same as the oil cooler seal replacement) and £200 ish for the inlet motor .
Soon adds up .
Thats why I have left the £1 resistor in place until I’m forced to pay the £1000 for the oil cooler leak .

 

[Bellow]

I think the op is a 2007 car so that ship has sailed . It’s an 8+ hour Labour job to have the manifolds removed (same as the oil cooler seal replacement) and £200 ish for the inlet motor .
Soon adds up .
Thats why I have left the £1 resistor in place until I’m forced to pay the £1000 for the oil cooler leak .

£200 for the motor isn't unreasonable. MB labour rates are available to all before buying an MB.
''Proper maintenance doesn't cost - it pays.'' That's an MB strapline that is.

 

[boxer 01]

Sorry for the late reply. I have done the oil cooler seals I have fitted new flap linkages and the intakes were also cleaned, this is why I feel to get my car to how it was I should replace the motor, Ive seen them advertised for 170 pounds, fitting is a bit tricky I think especially the linkage connections so it's something to contemplate. No dpf on mine.

 

[W1ghty]

Sorry for the late reply. I have done the oil cooler seals I have fitted new flap linkages and the intakes were also cleaned, this is why I feel to get my car to how it was I should replace the motor, Ive seen them advertised for 170 pounds, fitting is a bit tricky I think especially the linkage connections so it's something to contemplate. No dpf on mine.

In that case I would fit the motor .

 

[Skd884]

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[gusferlizi]

Don't rush. I have 3 of these and there's absolutely no driveability impact from keeping the motor unplugged and the pull up resistor on the connector. In fact even the O2 sensor serves no meaningful purpose on that year software.

If the flap cams are not excessively worn, and you fitted X8R CNC rods, then invest on a new motor. If you fitted eBay £20 aluminium rods, forget about it. Not worth putting a new motor on those.

Moreover, amongst the many quirks this engine has, pre 2010 the crank sensor fails long before the ECU recognises it as out of sync. Also, if you add a bad alternator to the math (also fails without error codes) you get a rollercoaster ride that's lazy and notchy most of the time, and really scary sometimes.

 

[boxer 01]

I went ahead and Installed a new motor, got it off autodoc at half the price of what mb quoted and as far as I can tell exactly the same part, make is pierburg but where the Merc logo was it looks like it's been ground off and a label stuck on. I'm happy with the result as the car drives like it used to, more responsive at low torque and gear changes back to how they were thanks for all members who contributed to this thread.

 

[boxer 01]

Don't rush. I have 3 of these and there's absolutely no driveability impact from keeping the motor unplugged and the pull up resistor on the connector. In fact even the O2 sensor serves no meaningful purpose on that year software.

If the flap cams are not excessively worn, and you fitted X8R CNC rods, then invest on a new motor. If you fitted eBay £20 aluminium rods, forget about it. Not worth putting a new motor on those.

Moreover, amongst the many quirks this engine has, pre 2010 the crank sensor fails long before the ECU recognises it as out of sync. Also, if you add a bad alternator to the math (also fails without error codes) you get a rollercoaster ride that's lazy and notchy most of the time, and really scary sometimes.

Just an update, after driving without the flaps and with the flaps there is definitely a difference in the way my car car drives, it is more responsive and feels like it drives how it's supposed to. Without the flaps I was giving it more throttle at low revs and it just didn't feel right to me.
I suppose if I'd have left it maybe I would've got used to it but I'm glad I fitted a new motor.