R129 fuel line replacements / source A1294701264 or get made up ?

[SKELLIG]

Hello, I am hoping someone can help as the restoration of my 1990 Sl500 is now stuck as I cannot source a steel fuel return line which runs from the fuel tank at the back to the from front and is part number A1294701264. It is out stock anywhere I looked and I have searched internet and the SL Shop cannot source. I am looking for a good second hand one or an option to get the part made up. It must be steel due to the pressure, and it is has flared end and screw as well. I am based in Dublin, and I have not been able to find a shop that can make these up so reaching out to fellow R129 enthusiast to see if anyone has had the same issue and how they resolved it e.g. got them made up. The SL Killer article from the SL Shop highlights that some of these cars can suffer from rear end corrosion and mine is one of those and all the rear end has been replaced except this part. It could be awkward to ship given the length, but I could also arrange collection if I can find the part. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Pontoneer]

Just a couple of thoughts -

the R129 is based on the W124 , only a bit shorter , but might be close to a C124 in length - the pipes will be basically the same , only shorter . I wonder if , due to relative commonality , W124 ones might still be available , then all you'd need to do would be to shorten and flare them .

I know the diameters are different , but I routinely make up brake pipes , including did them for my R129 300SL-24 , it's an easy process with the correct tool - fuel pipes are essentially the same , only larger diameter , you can probably get a fuel pipe flaring tool easily enough and the old unions can be re-used , or possibly M-B can supply these ? I think I got my flaring tool from Machine Mart , but don't get the ones that look like a rivet gun - those are rubbish - get the proper one that is like a steel block in two sections which clamp around the pipe , then you screw in the flaring probe which does the job right every time . The one I bought was a draper tool . You also need proper pipe cutters , a pipe bender and a pipe straightener , if you want your pipes to look factory original . I probably paid north of £100 for the tools , but now I can make up brake pipes for any car . I always use CuNiFer which , unlike steel , won't corrode again .

If using steel pipe , you may want , before fitting , to slip heat shrink sleeving over the entire pipe and shrink down onto it - this would provide protection from the road salts etc that get washed up under the car .

I have , in the past , effected temporary repairs on corroded fuel lines simply by cutting out the bad section and bridging with rubber fuel hose and securing with hose clips - pressure wasn't an issue ; last time I did that was on a W140 , until I got the new fuel line for a proper repair . On that occasion there had been no leak until an MOT tester chipped the pipe with his hammer and caused one ! He passed it with the rubber hose repair !

Lastly , you could perhaps try somewhere like Pirtek , who make up hydraulic hoses and pipes for plant equipment - they fabricate such things on their premises and if you took your old pipes in could probably replicate them ?



This is not the tool I bought , but it looks to work on the same principle - and is for brake pipe , not fuel pipe

BlueSpot 4 piece Double Pipe Flaring Tool Kit - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

this one works on a variety of pipe diameters , but is the type I was advised against by several other forum members

Laser Pipe Flaring Tool - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

Found it - this is the tool I bought , but only for brake pipes - it does a top job !

Draper Expert SAE Hand-Held Brake Pipe Flaring Tool, 3/16" | eBay

Expert Quality, easy to use hand held tool for quick accurate automotive pipe flaring. Ideal for use with pipes attached to the vehicle. Display packed.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Pontoneer]

Oh , incase you haven't tried it - removing and replacing a R129 fuel tank is a royal PITA ! Even with everything removed , it is a major wrestling match to get it in and out of the boot , and internal baffle failure is a well known issue !

I got a good used fuel tank from Karl Burgess , but what a nightmare of a job it was to fit .

 

[SKELLIG]

Just a couple of thoughts -

the R129 is based on the W124 , only a bit shorter , but might be close to a C124 in length - the pipes will be basically the same , only shorter . I wonder if , due to relative commonality , W124 ones might still be available , then all you'd need to do would be to shorten and flare them .

I know the diameters are different , but I routinely make up brake pipes , including did them for my R129 300SL-24 , it's an easy process with the correct tool - fuel pipes are essentially the same , only larger diameter , you can probably get a fuel pipe flaring tool easily enough and the old unions can be re-used , or possibly M-B can supply these ? I think I got my flaring tool from Machine Mart , but don't get the ones that look like a rivet gun - those are rubbish - get the proper one that is like a steel block in two sections which clamp around the pipe , then you screw in the flaring probe which does the job right every time . The one I bought was a draper tool . You also need proper pipe cutters , a pipe bender and a pipe straightener , if you want your pipes to look factory original . I probably paid north of £100 for the tools , but now I can make up brake pipes for any car . I always use CuNiFer which , unlike steel , won't corrode again .

If using steel pipe , you may want , before fitting , to slip heat shrink sleeving over the entire pipe and shrink down onto it - this would provide protection from the road salts etc that get washed up under the car .

I have , in the past , effected temporary repairs on corroded fuel lines simply by cutting out the bad section and bridging with rubber fuel hose and securing with hose clips - pressure wasn't an issue ; last time I did that was on a W140 , until I got the new fuel line for a proper repair . On that occasion there had been no leak until an MOT tester chipped the pipe with his hammer and caused one ! He passed it with the rubber hose repair !

Lastly , you could perhaps try somewhere like Pirtek , who make up hydraulic hoses and pipes for plant equipment - they fabricate such things on their premises and if you took your old pipes in could probably replicate them ?



This is not the tool I bought , but it looks to work on the same principle - and is for brake pipe , not fuel pipe

BlueSpot 4 piece Double Pipe Flaring Tool Kit - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

this one works on a variety of pipe diameters , but is the type I was advised against by several other forum members

Laser Pipe Flaring Tool - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

Found it - this is the tool I bought , but only for brake pipes - it does a top job !

Draper Expert SAE Hand-Held Brake Pipe Flaring Tool, 3/16" | eBay

Expert Quality, easy to use hand held tool for quick accurate automotive pipe flaring. Ideal for use with pipes attached to the vehicle. Display packed.

www.ebay.co.uk

Pontoneer, many thanks fof taking the time to consider my issue and to post detailed suggestions which are much appreciated - I actually tried Pirtek locally in Dublin with the old pipe as you suggested and they said they could not help me and did not have the correct tooling. I suspect my option isto to get one made up and I was hoping someone on the forum may have had to do just that and had a suggestion where the fuel pipes could be made up. In the absence of this option I may have to buy the tooling to make up the pipe and your suggestion in this regard are also very helpful. Thanks.