S210 E300TD (Not CDI) Glow plug replacement

[rspete]

I suspect looking on here that that Title may just have got a collective groan..in which case I do apologise.

However I need to replace my glow plugs. I do understand they can be a bugger to get out and have read several threads to this effect.
Anyway what I need advice with is this..Which do I buy? I see different ones advertised and a different one if car is fitted with an immobiliser.
So how do I know whether I have an immobiliser or not?

Once that is decided which brand to get, Beru, Bosch, Denso or NGK?

As the inlet manifold needs to come off I need to get a new gasket, is this main dealer only territory or are there any other outlets recommended?

Many thanks for any advice

 

[carat 3.6]

I suspect looking on here that that Title may just have got a collective groan..in which case I do apologise.

However I need to replace my glow plugs. I do understand they can be a bugger to get out and have read several threads to this effect.
Anyway what I need advice with is this..Which do I buy? I see different ones advertised and a different one if car is fitted with an immobiliser.
So how do I know whether I have an immobiliser or not?

Once that is decided which brand to get, Beru, Bosch, Denso or NGK?

As the inlet manifold needs to come off I need to get a new gasket, is this main dealer only territory or are there any other outlets recommended?

Many thanks for any advice

Most autofactors can get you an inlet manifold gasket, plenty of choice there. The glow plugs are the same regardless of your immobilizer, fit bosch or beru.

 

[bob6600]

I would see how much MB want for the parts, you may be surprised at the price. If you do want to go to a motor factor, Beru are regarded highly, and can be bought from EPC at reasonable prices

 

[toolman1954]

Removing the inlet manifold on an E300TD is a relatively easy job. You will need a torx bit T20/25?? ..cannot remember... and the worse part is getting the lower joint off. There is very little room to get your hand in. I seem to remember I used to take out the washer reservoir to be able to slide my hand in that way. If you are a Gynaecologist you will have no problems. I never did replace my manifold gasket, it is a nice metal one and all I ever did was to give it a smear of copper grease when refitting it. I know others will put their hands up in horror but it works. I had the inlet manifold off several times without a problem. In fact the only comment would be that the torx bolts were quite soft and eventually my torx bit was starting to chew the bolts up a bit. Try to warm the engine before you take out the glow plugs, and compared to a CDI its a doddle of a job. I used Beru glow plugs when I did mine. Steve.

 

[rspete]

Many thanks for the advice. I have given a local MB dealer a call re costs and at £27 per Glow plug I think I may be going elsewhere...Gasket was about £12.
I did see there were different options for immobiliser and non-immobiliser cars. I am assuming that there isn't such a thing as a non immobiliser car version!
I was interested in whether anyone had tried NGK and had anything good or bad to say as they are available relatively cheaply on flea bay (as are Beru).
Now I am looking into this I may look into cost of fuel pipes at the same time.
Anyone recommend suppliers in the UK for these things or are fuel lines main dealer option only?

Many thanks

 

[toolman1954]

Hi,
Fuel lines ---- get them from the main dealer... they are not that expensive and they fit correctly, so you have no worries about them leaking and letting in air, which can be a nightmare problem. Good time to change the pipes when you have the manifold off, makes that job easier also.
When you have changed the fuel pipes, make sure you have a good charged battery because you will need to crank the engine for some time while it self bleeds the air out of the system. Steve.

 

[bob6600]

Many thanks for the advice. I have given a local MB dealer a call re costs and at £27 per Glow plug I think I may be going elsewhere...

In that case, BERU from ECP are less than £10, don't forget try the code 'extra5' to get more off at checkout

Anyone recommend suppliers in the UK for these things or are fuel lines main dealer option only?

Many thanks

Best from the dealer. On my CDI, 2 are cheap, one is expensive!(ish)

 

[HarioH]

I just use £10 ebay metal inlet gaskets with no bother.

Once the inlet manifold is removed, then run up the engine to temp, ideally hotter than the 80 degree running temp but this is obviously difficult if you cant access the radiator to shield it with cardboard to stop air flow, nearer 100 makes the job 10x easier.

It may sound like I am a mad man but if they are truly stuck you will need to do this.

You will notice the glow plugs many turn 1 full revolution or so then begin to bind, this is the carbon collecting in the threads, use lots of penetrating oil and spend a few days removing them, then oiling them, even just 1/2 a turn a day.

I removed all 6 seized glow plugs from my 606 this way.

All the above assumes they are seized btw....

Beers, H.

 

[rspete]

Checked the resistance values via the plug to the glow plug relay.
5 0ut 0f 6 measured 0.8 ohms which I believe is reasonably good the sixth one didn't measure at all ..open circuit. So either its not connected, or its fubar...
As its starting at the moment I am going to leave it until I have all the parts, time and money to investigate further but no reading worries me.
Its becoming increasingly obvious that this beast may not have had too much TLC in a while...
Got prices from the local MB shop for fuel lines seals etc for the clear plastic pipes and "O" rings. Not as bad as it could be but again as it starts this can wait...

The reason for all this putting off jobs that are within budget and will need doing?

It steers like a drunk after a heavy night with scary torque steer when the auto changes gear during acceleration or lifting off (subject of another post). This I think may take priority, being unable to start a stationary vehicle will be annoying but going ditch finding at even moderate speed is just dangerous feeling

 

[rspete]

In case this is of interest here are the fuel line and "O" ring prices (part numbers lifted from another post on one of the forums..)

A 021 997 75 48 Seal Ring for shut off valve (Qty 1) - £2.22

A 605 070 14 32 Line from thermostat to prefilter (Qty 1) - £8.76
A 606 070 05 32 Return line from i.p. to fuel filter (Qty 1) - £13.92
A 017 997 22 48 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve (Qty 1) - £2.10
N 007603 012102 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve on i.p. (Qty 1) - £1.02
A 605 070 15 32 Line from fuel filter to shut-off valve (Qty 1) - £15.00
A 606 070 04 32 Line from feed pump to fuel filter (Qty 1) - £8.64
A 605 070 07 32 Line from prefilter to shut-off valve (Qty 1) – 9.60
A 605 070 08 32 Line from feed pump to shut-off valve (Qty 1) - £9.60

A 603 078 01 41 Bracket (Qty 7) - £10.92 for 7
A 601 078 03 86 Shim (Qty 7) superseded to A 601 078 04 86 - £10.08 for 7
A 601 078 26 41 Bracket (Qty 2) - £2.88 for 2
All prices quoted include VAT

 

[rspete]

Replaced all plastic fuel lines despite this when first started from cold it idles rough as hell, air still appearing in lines ....... :-(
Also No 6 glow plug had obviously been a challenge for a previous owner..looking like it might be a challenge to remove the residue so I will leave it in situ for now as I think the easiest way to move the remains will require rather more work than I have time for.
When we first got the vehicle it started OK when cold. The odd hiccup but generally smooth and fuss free. Then it turned really bad with really rough idling and undriveable until warmed a bit with clouds of unburnt diesel enveloping the car.
With the line replacement it (might) be marginally better and there is less cloud surrounding the vehicle at cold start.
Still a nightmare to drive until warmed. Obviously I have an issue with air in the fuel lines, though it runs and idles Ok(ish) once fully warmed.
Is there anything else that could be causing my cold start problems? EGR or something else?

 

[toolman1954]

If you are still getting air into the fuel system there are a couple of places to look. A major culprit on my old E300TD was the Fuel Delivery Valves which seem to start leaking at about 175000 miles. What is the mileage on yours? These valves sit on top of the fuel pump and a giveaway sign is a weep of diesel around them. You can just see them with a bright torch. There is a " How to do it " on here, but after one attempt I gave up and took it to a Diesel Specialist.
Another source of a leak can be the fuel filter, have you replaced this yet?

Steve.

 

[bolide]

In case this is of interest here are the fuel line and "O" ring prices (part numbers lifted from another post on one of the forums..)

A 021 997 75 48 Seal Ring for shut off valve (Qty 1) - £2.22

A 605 070 14 32 Line from thermostat to prefilter (Qty 1) - £8.76
A 606 070 05 32 Return line from i.p. to fuel filter (Qty 1) - £13.92
A 017 997 22 48 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve (Qty 1) - £2.10
N 007603 012102 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve on i.p. (Qty 1) - £1.02
A 605 070 15 32 Line from fuel filter to shut-off valve (Qty 1) - £15.00
A 606 070 04 32 Line from feed pump to fuel filter (Qty 1) - £8.64
A 605 070 07 32 Line from prefilter to shut-off valve (Qty 1) – 9.60
A 605 070 08 32 Line from feed pump to shut-off valve (Qty 1) - £9.60

A 603 078 01 41 Bracket (Qty 7) - £10.92 for 7
A 601 078 03 86 Shim (Qty 7) superseded to A 601 078 04 86 - £10.08 for 7
A 601 078 26 41 Bracket (Qty 2) - £2.88 for 2
All prices quoted include VAT

Thanks for putting prices! Interesting how inexpensive some parts are

Nick Froome

 

[guydewdney]

no 6. remove oil filter. i undid the mrs 300td ones a 1/64th a turn, then back up, then 1/63rd turn, back up, then 1/62nd etc etc. took about two hours for one of the plugs.

copperslipped before replacing.

I used ngk. seemed ok.

 

[rspete]

Guydewdney, That would be my plan if there was anything to get hold of!
Unfortunately they had broken it off then a butchered attempt to drill it out (without removing oil filter so drill wasn't square to the glow plug) This may have damaged the thread...
I will try looking at getting the oil filter bowl off and drilling it but only if I am also prepared to remove the head once I start! As it is the loss of one glow plug isn't, I hope, the cause of the starting and idling problems....

 

[a111r]

These go OK with one plug down.
As said, delivery valve seals can cause air ingestion. The wetness atop the IP is usually present.
Otherwise, if all the O rings and pipes have been done:
Fuel filter and pre-filter sealing, internal shut-off valve leaks have been known, fuel pipes degrading?