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SEC buying tips

Tramp

New Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2013
Messages
21
Car
VW Beetle
Hi, new member here, looking for a bit of advice.
I'm looking at buying a 1987 500SEC. I've done some research and know the usual problems and issues, but am looking for some advice on the rear scuttle rust problem. I know this area rusts terribly. I've got the seller to try and photograph the area, but I cant work out what area is photographed and what rust you can see on these.
So I'm hoping that someone out there has some pics and advice on the areas.
Thanks in advance
Jon
 
With regards to the parcel shelf rust, you want to lay in the boot and look up at the metal work. You may see 2 black plastic trays which are the parcel shelf trays accessed from inside the car.
Also check around the outside of the rear window with the boot open.

You probably have heard about the front wings and checking them for a previous repair.

Also worth checking the front of the floorpans and chassis rails, (in the area under the pedals and near where the some front suspension parts bolt to the chassis)
as mine has been welded there previously.

Rear lower corners of the boot as the boot probably has leaked at some point!

Other than that check it over like an old potentially rusty car and you wont go far wrong.
 
I cant take photos of my car for the next few days. Can you show us a photo the vendor sent?
 
Excellent, that all makes sense. Thanks for the advice.
The car isn't that local to me so i'm trying to get as much info as possible before going to see it.
The seller has said that the boot has leaked, and this is the area I'm concerned about. The rear corners of the screen looks fine from outside but if its been leaking I can only presume it would rot where the screen fits.
Here's the photos, I cant make out what's what.



<a




Thanks
 
No problem happy to help.

Well the good news is I have seen worse.
Bare in mind that the rust is in there and it will keep eating away. The only way to sort is cut out back to good metal and weld in new. (big job in this area)

The likelihood is that you will not find one with out any signs of rust!

It will probably last for a good few years before really showing much of a problem.

You want photos of the bottom of the rear screen, the corners and the bit that is hidden when the boot lid is shut. If these areas are ok then you will probably have a few years before anything major ugly shows its head.

Bassically it all comes down to the standard of car you find acceptable and how long you want to keep it. My 126 is not great to be honest but I only use it as a (very comfy) runabout and can accept it may not be a long term investment.
 
And for your info, The pressing with the holes is the lower part, the 'ceiling' of the boot. Cant think what else to call it!!
When you look through the holes the metal is the top of the parcel shelf which is what the parcel shelf trim etc sits on inside the car.

I have seen plenty when even the lower part was red rust!
 
That all looks pretty good as far as you can see- I would have preferred a slightly wider field of view to get the bigger picture. All that area is essentially secondary to the actual panel that the rear screen sits in------ whichyou basically can't see directly without removing the screen but you can only infer what its like from leaks to the adjacent panels shown. Here's a few pics from Jaymanek's legendary wide body conversion thread :bannana::bannana: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/mbclub-projects/60611-sec-widebody-conversion.html to help visualise where the problem lies. Jay's the man to ask- he's been there and has the photos to prove it.


wide30.jpg


AND

wide36.jpg


wide37.jpg
 
Thanks for all your help.
That all sounds promising. I'm not expecting it be mint, as its not expensive. What I want is a nice usable example that over time I can improve. With the values of them at rock bottom at the moment, I cant see it not gaining money over the next few years, if cared for right.
Thank you for the pics that's exactly what I was looking for. I'm used to rusty motors, having a few VW beetles over the years. I've got my own MIG so should be able to tackle the problem when needed.
Here are the pics of the rear screen from what I can see it all looks ok, although this problem does seem well hidden.



The only other place that I can see that is suffering is the front wings.

 
That shelf Looks pretty good....

If its cheap just enjoy it, these are fantastic cars...

Rust points are the shelf, wings and bulkhead corners... if the bulkhead area is gone the inside of the car will be a paddling pool.
Its quite hard to weld there too..

Try and avoid cars with ASR traction control... these have a lot more gubbins that play up and cause all sorts of weird issues at this age...
 
If you can get a good price it certainly looks ok. Nice colour!
 
Thanks for all the advice and help. It took a while, but the deal has finally been done. I'm happy with it for the price paid. Its now just waiting to be transported up me.
Jaymanek, I've just spent a couple of hours reading through your widebody thread. Its a great thread. Thats a beautiful car you have there.
Thanks
Jon
 
Enjoy the car, W126s are great, looks like you've a good one there if the only rust is the front wings
 
Thanks again for the positive comments.
Car was delivered to me this morning. So could only give it a quick check over, but looks like it will need the handbrake sorted as its stuck on, and the bonnet catch is stuck .

20131018_085409.jpg
 
The stuck on hand brake could well be the mechanism in the dash, mine used to do it when stood for some time, light would not go out and handle would not be fully retracted, after a small while of driving it would release, more to do with the handle than the brakes I thought, it was not on sufficiently to prevent forward motion in any noticeable way though
 
The stuck on hand brake could well be the mechanism in the dash, mine used to do it when stood for some time, light would not go out and handle would not be fully retracted, after a small while of driving it would release, more to do with the handle than the brakes I thought, it was not on sufficiently to prevent forward motion in any noticeable way though

Thanks for the advice.
The mechanism would be the first thing to check tomorrow. Is it easily accessible?
The handle is pulling in and out with no resistance.Its on quite well and causing it to struggle at low speed. I didn't want to give it to much, as I didn't want them binding.
 
No, that's different to my problem, mine released the parking brake about 90%, but then went "floppy" at the dashboard handle, yours sounds like a different issue, how did it get delivered to you? If driven with the parking brake on it may have damaged the mechanism as some people wouldn't know how to release it on a W126, mind you, the car probably wouldn't have got to you in one piece if driven for a distance with the break on
 
No, that's different to my problem, mine released the parking brake about 90%, but then went "floppy" at the dashboard handle, yours sounds like a different issue, how did it get delivered to you? If driven with the parking brake on it may have damaged the mechanism as some people wouldn't know how to release it on a W126, mind you, the car probably wouldn't have got to you in one piece if driven for a distance with the break on

It was driven onto a trailer by the previous owner, I wasn't there then. Then unloaded by the delivery guy. I noticed it when I went to move it to a different parking bay.
Now I'll be completely honest here, having never driven a Merc before I had no idea about the parking brake and how to operate it, everyone's got to start somewhere. I like to think I would have been able to figure it out if it was working though. It feels like the handle has come off the ratchet, if that's possible.


If freeing off the shoes and cables etc. doesn't do the trick, Take a look at my recent thread on the parking brake.

It isn't for the W126 but it'll be close enough.

That's great thanks, it makes it much easier to actually see what the mechanisms are like.
 
To release the handbrake, pull the handle and twist it to the right.
 

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