you need to lift the panel surrounding the gear lever to get at it.
1, If you have a glove box in the centre console below the arm rest remove it, it's held in with two crosss head screws at the front of the box.
2, in the now empty centre console you will see a single screw at the front - undo it
3, remove the frame from around the shifter mechanism
4, lift the wooden panel with the switches on upwards from the rear - it will need a little "gentle persuasion" as the mirror adjuster switch will offer a little resistance
5, you can now get at the shifter surround, it's held together with two clips at the front and side, reach around and you will find them, hold them in and lift the top of the shifter surround
6, making sure you don't lose any bits (particularly the base of the E/S switch) you can lift the cover for the gear selector where you will see the bulb.
This sounds a lot more complicated than it is but you do need to remove a fair bit of trim to get at it. Make sure you have a spare bulb to put in as it's not worth going through the whole process to find out that cleaning the contacts doesn't work
HTH
Andy