Slight smell OM642

[W1ghty]

OK, its been a while since I have updated this. I got the injectors re-sealed and noticed that there was a fair amount of oil weeping from the intake/turbo join. Turns out, the intake was badly cracked and allowing the oil vapour to escape and condense into liquid dripping onto hot engine and creating the burning smell. So, I have removed the damaged part and fitted a silicone hose, also fitted a catch can to stop the turbo ingesting all the oil vapour and it clogging the inlets. I have on order several seals and gaskets and plan to strip the top of the 'V' and clean all the crud away, whilst doing this I will also replace the oil cooler seals and clean out the inlet manifolds too. Hopefully this should all allow me to enjoy my car without having to worry about anymore smells, and prevent any issues with the inlet manifolds in future too.

I think we are going to need a separate thread with pics for the inlet manifolds and oil cooler seals buddy .
I may need to do my E320cdi om642 at some point .

 

[R1ley]

I think we are going to need a separate thread with pics for the inlet manifolds and oil cooler seals buddy .
I may need to do my E320cdi om642 at some point .

Funnily enough I was thinking of doing just this. I will try and take as many clear pictures as possible whilst I'm doing this job and hopefully explain it in an easy to read manner.

 

[R1ley]

Well, I think I need to do the oil cooler sooner rather than later. I noticed a hot oil smell whilst walking round the front of my car after parking up. Opened the bonnet and looked down beside the air intake/turbo. I had washed it down with carb cleaner after doing the catch can, however there is now fresh/wet oil sitting down there again. Guess I'm going to be busy this weekend.

 

[Accused]

Oil cooler leaks show very low down, the intake pipe to turbo or PCV show up in that turbo area and a very easy fix, the seal from the intake pipe and / or the green o ring on the alloy to turbo pipe

 

[R1ley]

Oil cooler leaks show very low down, the intake pipe to turbo or PCV show up in that turbo area and a very easy fix, the seal from the intake pipe and / or the green o ring on the alloy to turbo pipe

Yeah, that’s what I thought it was originally. I’ve fitted a silicone pipe to replace the brittle plastic intake and a catch tank for the breather so no oil going into turbo now. All I can think is oil cooler has gotten worse. I’m looking way down at the mounting bolts through a very narrow gap between everything there. Guess I’ll find out for sure when I pull it all apart.

 

[Accused]

Have you checked the O ring on the hard alloy pipe where it joins the turbo, it's often very misty and hard to see the leak but builds quick with revs at that pressure

 

[Accused]

Google Image Result for https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/data/attachments/64/64258-a86f2783071e5af1c85023826705f697.jpg?hash=qG8ngwceWv

We used to double O ring those as they leak very easily often people install wrong inside the pipe instead of over the turbo, tiny bit of lube helps avoid destroying them while pushing the pipe on

 

[R1ley]

Google Image Result for https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/data/attachments/64/64258-a86f2783071e5af1c85023826705f697.jpg?hash=qG8ngwceWv

We used to double O ring those as they leak very easily often people install wrong inside the pipe instead of over the turbo, tiny bit of lube helps avoid destroying them while pushing the pipe on

Thanks for the tip with the seal, that pipe looks clean on the outside but I do have a new seal for it ready when it all gets done.

 

[R1ley]

well, I think I'm almost ready for the job in hand now.

 

[Accused]

You don't need the actual cooler, I suppose it doesn't hurt to do while in there. Good luck its a massive job but it should be OK for at least 100k after.
I'd also rip out the swirl flaps and weld up the holes where the spindle goes.

 

[R1ley]

You don't need the actual cooler, I suppose it doesn't hurt to do while in there. Good luck its a massive job but it should be OK for at least 100k after.
I'd also rip out the swirl flaps and weld up the holes where the spindle goes.

Thanks for the tip on the swirl flaps, the cooler is just in case I get the old one off and find it’s in any way damaged or leaking other than the seals.

 

[MrGreedy]

Glad to see you're considering going new cooler too! That's my choice as well seeing as it's all apart!
You would need to do some NDI to find if the cooler is damaged, either dye penetrant or fluorescent dye penetrant in my opinion, so I'm just going for a new Merc cooler.

A new swirl flap motor is also recommended whilst you're there. You can get original manufacture ones for £125

 

[R1ley]

Glad to see you're going new cooler too! That's my choice as well seeing as it's all apart!

A new swirl flap motor is also recommended whilst you're there. You can get original manufacture ones for £125

Nice, I’ll look into that too. Thanks

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

Good luck, brave souls

 

[R1ley]

Good luck, brave souls

Thanks, I think I’m going to need all the luck I can get.

 

[MrGreedy]

I'm hopefully not going to need the luck, as local independent MB Automotive were competitive on price, so it's going in there on Monday

 

[vijilants]

I'm hopefully not going to need the luck, as local independent MB Automotive were competitive on price, so it's going in there on Monday

You have done the correct thing by purchasing a new oil cooler rather than using the old one.

If I were you and you are planning on keeping the car, I would also change out the swirl flap motor. It is in the same area and is prone to failure so whilst the area is stripped, it would be recommended.

Also check if the swirl flaps are functioning correcctly....there is a mod for the actuator rods as they are plastic and can become brittle...

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[MrGreedy]

You have done the correct thing by purchasing a new oil cooler rather than using the old one.

If I were you and you are planning on keeping the car, I would also change out the swirl flap motor. It is in the same area and is prone to failure so whilst the area is stripped, it would be recommended.

Also check if the swirl flaps are functioning correcctly....there is a mod for the actuator rods as they are plastic and can become brittle...

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I've got a 38k miles swirl flap motor, intake manifolds and EGR cooler from eBay. I've inspected them all and they look basically mint. The manifolds and EGR cooler have all been fully cleaned with carb cleaner and everything is virtually spotless (although there was surprisingly little carbon build-up in the manifolds).
I'll keep my swirl flap and the thermostat I also got as part of the bundle as spares.

 

[R1ley]

Do you have a picture of your nodded air intake?

I bought a silicone seal from turbo zentrum for £30 or so, but cancelled the order when I realised that I had to dremel the current one. Mine is a bit broken but if I change the orange seal every 5-6 months, it’s fine.

finally have that photo for you. I also have a catch can fitted so no need for the 'T' piece