Stiff combination switch

[mr. shr]

Hi all,

The conbination swich on my recently purchased 202 is a bit stiff in both directions. All functions are working correctly and the turn indicators self cancel when straightening up. But the stalk itself seems very stiff in operation.

Is there anything I can do to free it up? It kind of makes a scaping sound as you operate it, so I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to be like that. Feels like it needs lubricating.

Anyone come across this before?

 

[Alex Argent]

Hi all,

The conbination swich on my recently purchased 202 is a bit stiff in both directions. All functions are working correctly and the turn indicators self cancel when straightening up. But the stalk itself seems very stiff in operation.

Is there anything I can do to free it up? It kind of makes a scaping sound as you operate it, so I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to be like that. Feels like it needs lubricating.

Anyone come across this before?

Never had the problem on my 'to be sold' W202 ( see here: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=38428 ), however I do have a brand new stalk that I bought from a stealer after I was given misinformation from the other forum after my indicators packed up. Turned out it was an intermittent fault with the flasher relay.

End result: one new stalk assembly for sale :bannana:

PM me if you are interested. It was never ever fitted

I'm sure we can come to an agreeable price.

Thanks and regards,

Alex

 

[mr. shr]

OK, I'm thinking of removing the steering wheel and having a look at the combination switch. According to WIS, the steering bolt needs to be tightened to 80Nm.
I did a similar job on my wife's old pug 206 (replaced combination switches) and the Haynes manual said the steering wheel bolt should be tightened to about 32Nm.
Why such a huge difference between the two cars?

WIS also says I need a special tool to remove the airbag. Is this true or is this just a torx drive?

Finally, if I do go ahead and do this, is it wise to buy a new steering bolt before I start? Had to replace the one on the pug as I'd managed to re-shaped the head after trying to remove it (and that was only tightened to 32Nm!!)

Any pointers gratefully received as I'm a bit nervous about attempting to remove the wheel!!! Is there any serviceable part on the combination switch that I can access from just removing the wheel? WIS goes on about removing the contact spiral and that scares me even more.

Thanks for any input.

shr.

 

[Dieselman]

I wouldn't be bothered about he contact spiral or any other mechanical part of the removal, but you need to be aware to disconnect the airbag feed before removing the airbag itself.
There should be a largish connector either behind the lower dash panel or in the footwell for the airbag feed.

 

[mr. shr]

I wouldn't be bothered about he contact spiral or any other mechanical part of the removal, but you need to be aware to disconnect the airbag feed before removing the airbag itself.
There should be a largish connector either behind the lower dash panel or in the footwell for the airbag feed.

Thanks Dieselman,

I think the airbag sensor is under the stereo head unit. Any thoughts on the 80Nm for the steering wheel bolt? Sounds a lot more than I did on the pug (32Nm).

 

[mr. shr]

Also, can anyone confirm if the air bag removal tool is anything different to a torx drive?
Part No: 126 589 00 10 00

Thanks.

 

[andrewcliffe]

Ones French and therefore made out of cheese... The other is German and hewn from solid rock.

There can be lots of reasons why two torque settings on the same component, but completely different manufactuers, could be due to materials, size of shaft, type of thread and so on.

OK, I'm thinking of removing the steering wheel and having a look at the combination switch. According to WIS, the steering bolt needs to be tightened to 80Nm.
I did a similar job on my wife's old pug 206 (replaced combination switches) and the Haynes manual said the steering wheel bolt should be tightened to about 32Nm.
Why such a huge difference between the two cars?

WIS also says I need a special tool to remove the airbag. Is this true or is this just a torx drive?

Finally, if I do go ahead and do this, is it wise to buy a new steering bolt before I start? Had to replace the one on the pug as I'd managed to re-shaped the head after trying to remove it (and that was only tightened to 32Nm!!)

Any pointers gratefully received as I'm a bit nervous about attempting to remove the wheel!!! Is there any serviceable part on the combination switch that I can access from just removing the wheel? WIS goes on about removing the contact spiral and that scares me even more.

Thanks for any input.

shr.

 

[mr. shr]

Any advice on undoing the bolt? WD40 it first and then try undoing it the following day, for example?
Or should I just go at it with all my mite?!?!?

Anyone know what size it is? Called the Stealer this morning. About 3 quid for replacement bolt so will try and pick up tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Dieselman]

Leave the steering lock on but hold the wheel tightly then use a long breaker bar and a well fitting socket and all should be Ok.

 

[andrewcliffe]

...but think about possible things that may get damaged if it slips off.

A non-glamourous but beefy assistant may be useful. Getting a steering wheel of a spline can often be fun as well...

 

[Dieselman]

Getting a steering wheel of a spline can often be fun as well...

After removing the nut mark the shaft and boss with marker pen for re installation.

 

[mr. shr]

Getting a steering wheel of a spline can often be fun as well...

Getting wheel off the pug was no fun at all. Wouldn't budge.
After trying for ages, I ended up sitting in the back seat with the drivers seat back rest between me and the wheel and gave it all I had. The idea beeing that if the wheel flew off, the seat would shield me from the projecting wheel.
Still wouldn't move though.

I gave it one last try and whilst doing so, I started saying to myself, "Stupid bl***y thing.......why wont you budge......gonna have to go to the stealer...........................but I hate stealers...................they all wind me up.........."

Whilst I'm saying these things, I'm still jigging the wheel. Then I start thinking about Stealers in more detail. I think about all the times I've had run ins with them in the past, getting more and more worked up as I do so. Eventually I get myself so worked up that suddenly, the wheel pops off!! And there is was, one steering wheel removed.

It's amazing. I'd used all my strenth to remove it, but it wouldn't come off. I started thinking about past experiences with Stealerships and worked my self into such a rage that the wheel just slid off!!

Goes to show, the Stealers are good for something!!!!!!

 

[Wezzel]

A useful tip!

Leave the retaining nut on by approximately 1/2 a turn before trying to bang the wheel off it's splines.

Otherwise they have a habit of suddenly coming off and whacking you in the face.

Not that I have done it myself you understand

 

[mr. shr]

Just picked up a replacement bolt. It's shorter and fatter than the one on the pug, so might explain why it needs to be tighter?

It's a 10mm hex key according to Stealer. Will need to go to Helfrauds for the right size bit tonight.

Surprised it's hex and not torx. Thought hex had stopped years ago. (This is a T reg, 1999)

 

[mr. shr]

Leave the steering lock on but hold the wheel tightly then use a long breaker bar and a well fitting socket and all should be Ok.

What sort of length breaker bar should I be looking for?

 

[Dieselman]

Depends on what you can get but minimum 18", 2' is better.

Try padding and wedging the steering wheel as well with another bar to react against.

 

[mr. shr]

Try padding and wedging the steering wheel as well with another bar to react against.

Not sure I understand this. How/where would I place another bar?

 

[Dieselman]

Through the spokes and braced against the other bar.
One will be pulling up and one pressing down.

If you have real problems take the car to a tyre centre or local garage. The air impact wrench will get it off. Also a sharp blow with a hammer before loosening should shock the threads and will help release the bolt.

If you drive the car with the airbag disconnected it will flag a fault code which will need resetting at a dealer.

 

[richard]

Why such a huge difference between the two cars?

I guess peugot are scared it will break at 80NM ;-)

WIS also says I need a special tool to remove the airbag. Is this true or is this just a torx drive?

Theres a picture of it in the tools section on www.mercupgrades.com - its a long torx drive

Finally, if I do go ahead and do this, is it wise to buy a new steering bolt before I start? Had to replace the one on the pug as I'd managed to re-shaped the head after trying to remove it (and that was only tightened to 32Nm!!)

I have only removed about 4 steering wheels, never had an issue with bolt being damaged. Interestingly, i've always managed to do it with a torque wrench set up high (probably not ideal for the wrench)

I guess the bendy bolt answers the pug 32Nm vs Merc 80Nm question ..


R

ps, don't touch the contact spiral & the newer cars have a mark on the wheel and on the steering column to line them up again (using a torch shine down where you are about to put the bolt back in)

 

[mr. shr]

Depends on what you can get but minimum 18", 2' is better.

OK looking on ebay for something suitable. There are some 18" for about ten quid and some for about 20. Can't tell any difference. If I get the cheaper one, will it snap?!?!?
None of the give an indication as to how much torque they can handle.

Any suggestions for what to go for? Hellfrauds have got a 24" for 20 pounds. Can't really tell if the 20 pounds units on ebay are better, the same or worse!!