Stiff combination switch

[Dieselman]

To be fair Halfords professional tools are excellent.

The difference will be the way the socket connector fits into the end of the bar.
Cheap ones tend to spread the fork and snap off due to using roll pins instead of bolts through the clevis.

Any breaker bar will take 150ftLbs at least.
I snapped a couple of cheaper ones, well one was a £16 Draper and that was 20 years ago so not so cheap.

Mind you each time they were being given full force..

 

[mr. shr]

Through the spokes and braced against the other bar.
One will be pulling up and one pressing down.

Still trying to picture this.
So for example, if I hold the (to be purchased) breaker bar at the 3 'o clock position with the 10mm hex bit firmly pushed into the bolt, would I put an additional bar at the 12 'o clock position?

Sorry, just sounds like this would be a really good thing for me to do.

 

[Dieselman]

You may not be able to do it due to the shape of the wheel and spokes, but if you can once the socket is on the bolt and attached to the breaker bar, feed another bar through the spokes in the same plane as the first bar, with the inboard end crossing the first bar.
The point where they cross will act as a fulcrum to act against.

Then you should have two bars with the handles near each other which will give really good leverage when pulling and pushing simultaneously.

Does that make sense.?

 

[mr. shr]

Theres a picture of it in the tools section on www.mercupgrades.com - its a long torx drive

Thanks for that.
So it's just a TX30 drive. WIS calls it a special tool. If WIS thinks a TX30 is special, well then, WIS is very easily impressed!!!

 

[mr. shr]

You may not be able to do it due to the shape of the wheel and spokes, but if you can once the socket is on the bolt and attached to the breaker bar, feed another bar through the spokes in the same plane as the first bar, with the inboard end crossing the first bar.
The point where they cross will act as a fulcrum to act against.

Then you should have two bars with the handles near each other which will give really good leverage when pulling and pushing simultaneously.

Does that make sense.?

Getting closer!!
So with the breaker bar at 3 'o clock, a second bar goes accross the whole wheel (either twenty to two, or ten to four!!), yes?

Then I push UP (anti clockwise) on the breaker bar, and DOWN (clock wise) on the additional bar.
Am I anywhere near the mark, here? (Apprciate the spoon feeding BTW).

 

[mr. shr]

To be fair Halfords professional tools are excellent.

The difference will be the way the socket connector fits into the end of the bar.
Cheap ones tend to spread the fork and snap off due to using roll pins instead of bolts through the clevis.

Any breaker bar will take 150ftLbs at least.
I snapped a couple of cheaper ones, well one was a £16 Draper and that was 20 years ago so not so cheap.

Mind you each time they were being given full force..

So the Halfords one will be ok then? Anyone got any experience with the ebay ones. Should I risk it, or just get the Halfords one?

 

[mr. shr]

Any breaker bar will take 150ftLbs at least.

That's about 200Nm isn't it? So even the cheap ones will do me then?

What kind of projects were you doing then, Dieselman? Must have been pretty heavy stuff if they snapped.

 

[Dieselman]

You're as close as you need to be with the idea on how to use the two bars. one is just to steady the wheel as you pull on the other.

You don't really need to feed the second bar all the way as if it reaches the first bar at the centre it will hold steady.

As far as breaking bars, one was years of use, the other was working on the Landy and included an extra tube for leverage. Both went at the clevis due to spreading.

Snap on stuff is good but my brother snapped a lever by adding a six foot extension then standing on it..well more like jumping.. Still got a free replacement though.

 

[mr. shr]

Also a sharp blow with a hammer before loosening should shock the threads and will help release the bolt.

Is this a sharp blow to the head of the bolt or to the actually steering wheel?

 

[Dieselman]

Head of the bolt. It will shock the threads.

 

[mr. shr]

You're as close as you need to be with the idea on how to use the two bars. one is just to steady the wheel as you pull on the other.

You don't really need to feed the second bar all the way as if it reaches the first bar at the centre it will hold steady.

Think I know where you're coming from. Will probably be clearer when I actually do it.

Snap on stuff is good .........

but pricey!!!
Might just go for something off ebay. Same price as Halfords but 'claim' to be stronger.

 

[BlackC55]

The bolt has loctite on it and its tight. Just remove the key and undo it agaist the steering lock. It is VERY strong and will withstand the force easily. No need for the additional bar etc

The torx bit you will need has a long shaft. Snap on do a perfect one for the job. (I have one). When you do up the airbag do not do it up too tight as it is easy to break off the captive nut.

 

[mr. shr]

The bolt has loctite on it and its tight. Just remove the key and undo it agaist the steering lock. It is VERY strong and will withstand the force easily. No need for the additional bar etc

The torx bit you will need has a long shaft. Snap on do a perfect one for the job. (I have one). When you do up the airbag do not do it up too tight as it is easy to break off the captive nut.

It's ok to push against the steering lock? I'll try whatever I can to remove it.

 

[BlackC55]

It is fine. It is plenty strong enough. I have removed many in the past in that way.

 

[andrewcliffe]

Breaker bar length - As long as you can get away with...

Torque is force multipled by distance, so applying a set force with a short breaker bar produces half torque than the same force but with double the length.

This is why door knobs are situated on the opposite side of the door to where the hinges are.

Halford tools are probably the best things Halfords sells - if only the other Halfords branded stuff was as good!

 

[BlackC55]

I just use a 8 inch breaker bar to remove them. There is no need for a super long one. It is unecessary.

 

[mr. shr]

I just use a 8 inch breaker bar to remove them. There is no need for a super long one. It is unecessary.

Some of the bars on ebay claim to have an impact end. Does that mean you can hit the handle with a hammer to give you more force? Or does the 'impact end' refer to the end that holds the bit?

 

[mr. shr]

I wouldn't be bothered about he contact spiral or any other mechanical part of the removal, but you need to be aware to disconnect the airbag feed before removing the airbag itself.
There should be a largish connector either behind the lower dash panel or in the footwell for the airbag feed.

Does anyone know why it's important to disconnect this unit?
Surely if the battery is disconnected, it shouldn't matter.

I used the Haynes manual when I worked on the pug, and that also said, disconnect battery AND airbag sensor. But can't see why.

 

[BlackC55]

No need to disconect the airbag sensor under the dash. Just make sure the key is out of the ignition (steering wheel straight ahead) and the battery is disconnected.

 

[mr. shr]

No need to disconect the airbag sensor under the dash. Just make sure the key is out of the ignition (steering wheel straight ahead) and the battery is disconnected.

Cheers, will do.