The 2020 CL215 Owners Register
- Thread starter splitpin
- Start date
PeteCL55AMG
Active Member
A beauty Matt, thanks for sharing.
PeteCL55AMG
Active Member
Quick update from me, quote approved by me and parts on order so looking forward to having my CL back.
Some more hopeful news on getting a refund for my failed struts from China, as after asking to speak to someone more senior at eBay, a Supervisor said they would get in touch with the seller and strongly advise that they contact me. They did just that this morning, so will let you know if I get any success, but certainly in a better place than I was with this whole episode.
OP
OP
That is interesting Matt, there are considerable detail differences to the CL500 whichThought some of you might like a few pictures of my old CL55
View attachment 129940View attachment 129941View attachment 129942View attachment 129943View attachment 129944View attachment 129945
Kind regards Matt
I had not seen before......Boot, rear wings, steering wheel, centre console etc. To my eyes it makes the car look more business like... bullish even.
Having had it for 8 years it must have been appealing to you.. Were you like renault
& had virtually no problems during ownership. ?
OP
OP
Well done, persistence pays, it should prove positive.
OP
OP
SNIPPETS UPDATE July 2022
1.Guide toCL215 2000-2007 (Glasses Guide) >>>> Page2
2. ABC Strut Boots >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 2
4. Body Materials & Structure >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 3
5. Current Members Feb:2021 >>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 4
6. Looking for a CL215 ? Buying advice >>>>>>> Page 4
7 .CL63 AMG & all 215 Performance Details >>>>> Page 5
8 .CL55 Details by Wikii >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Page 5
9. Seat Settings & Throttle Reset >>>>>>>>>>> Page 5
10.CleaningWindscreen Drains >>>>>>>>>>>> Page5
11. AirCon hidden Menu + Live Data by MBMedic Page 5
12.Cleaning Sunroof Rails >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 6
14 .Valve Blocks & Valves >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Page 6
15.Authentic CL variants & images >>>>>>>>> Page 6
16. CL Windows detailed information>>>>>>> Page 6
17. Dutch firm selling CL components + ABC details Page 6 & 7
18. German firm producing /repairing CL components Page10
19.ABC warnings/Emergency action >>>>>>> Page 11
29. CL600 website descriptive advert >>>>>>> Page 12
21`Commercial hoses for ABC, details >>>>> Page 13
22.Fitting wider rear wheels/considerations Page 14
23. Galvanic corrosion details/correction >> Page 14
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1.Guide toCL215 2000-2007 (Glasses Guide) >>>> Page2
2. ABC Strut Boots >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 2
4. Body Materials & Structure >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 3
5. Current Members Feb:2021 >>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 4
6. Looking for a CL215 ? Buying advice >>>>>>> Page 4
7 .CL63 AMG & all 215 Performance Details >>>>> Page 5
8 .CL55 Details by Wikii >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Page 5
9. Seat Settings & Throttle Reset >>>>>>>>>>> Page 5
10.CleaningWindscreen Drains >>>>>>>>>>>> Page5
11. AirCon hidden Menu + Live Data by MBMedic Page 5
12.Cleaning Sunroof Rails >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Page 6
14 .Valve Blocks & Valves >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Page 6
15.Authentic CL variants & images >>>>>>>>> Page 6
16. CL Windows detailed information>>>>>>> Page 6
17. Dutch firm selling CL components + ABC details Page 6 & 7
18. German firm producing /repairing CL components Page10
19.ABC warnings/Emergency action >>>>>>> Page 11
29. CL600 website descriptive advert >>>>>>> Page 12
21`Commercial hoses for ABC, details >>>>> Page 13
22.Fitting wider rear wheels/considerations Page 14
23. Galvanic corrosion details/correction >> Page 14
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Last edited:
OP
OP
We carried out a member mini survey on tyres that suited versions of CL215 recently.
Replies (Thanks to those members)indicated that Michelin Pilot Sport 5 &
Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymmetric 3/4/5 were most popular.
Replies (Thanks to those members)indicated that Michelin Pilot Sport 5 &
Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymmetric 3/4/5 were most popular.
OP
OP
CL215 variants
Another personal recommended high mileage checklist by a very experienced owner.
My car is up to 156k miles, and I'm using it as a daily driver. The engine is smooth, quiet and surprisingly economical. It doesn't consume much, maybe a couple of litres of oil in year, and all the exhaust emissions on the annual UK MoT test are very low, which is a good sign of health. As always with large-engined, modern cars, it's the other things that wear out first. Sounds like you have a good idea of what to expect. Here's a check-list:
Preventive Maintenance at 85,000 miles?
Change the engine oil & filters
Change the transmission oil & filter
Change the ABC oil & filter
Change the anti-freeze
Replace the oil seal in the TCU cable connector on the transmission
Inspect all the ABC hoses and replace any wet ones
Clean the mud from behind all the fender liners
Clean the heater inlet and sunroof rainwater drains
Clean & feed the leather
Last edited by Welwynnick; 12-27-2015
Another personal recommended high mileage checklist by a very experienced owner.
My car is up to 156k miles, and I'm using it as a daily driver. The engine is smooth, quiet and surprisingly economical. It doesn't consume much, maybe a couple of litres of oil in year, and all the exhaust emissions on the annual UK MoT test are very low, which is a good sign of health. As always with large-engined, modern cars, it's the other things that wear out first. Sounds like you have a good idea of what to expect. Here's a check-list:
Preventive Maintenance at 85,000 miles?
Change the engine oil & filters
Change the transmission oil & filter
Change the ABC oil & filter
Change the anti-freeze
Replace the oil seal in the TCU cable connector on the transmission
Inspect all the ABC hoses and replace any wet ones
Clean the mud from behind all the fender liners
Clean the heater inlet and sunroof rainwater drains
Clean & feed the leather
Last edited by Welwynnick; 12-27-2015
mattk1
Active Member
I absolutely loved it and IMHO the W215 is one of the best looking cars MB have ever made. I had my fair share of issues over the years: a couple of struts, an ABC pump, accumulators, boot struts, rear brake lines plus all the normal routine maintenance bits and pieces. I performed a few mods which I hope didn't detract from it's overall appeal: X-pipe, rear box delete, smaller SC pulley, remap and rolling road etc, carbon boot lip, carbon diffuser, updated carbon door mirrors and carbon front splitter. Inside I bought a complete replacement set of wood panels and had them carbon hydro-dipped incl the rear roller cubby, finally finishing the whole thing off with a custom made steering wheel (to my spec) that I fitted a pair of black paddles instead of the normal buttons. I spent some money on it to make it 'mine' and don't regret it for one one minute.
Matt
100%Bitch
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
- Messages
- 114
- Car
- C215 CL600, C216 CL500, R172 SLK55, R170 SLK230K, Nissan Cube & Auto Trail Comanche
I must have missed this survey. I put a set of Pirelli PZ4s on my 600 when I bought it.
JasonH1969
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2022
- Messages
- 20
- Location
- Newquay, Cornwall, UK
- Car
- 2004 C215 CL500 and 2001 R170 SLK 320
Well it was a short lived CL experience; I loved the car but just wasn't using it enough and it was too big for the garage so before it started to deteriorate I decided to let it go. I bundled in my SLK 320 too so no MBs at the moment. These CLs are wonderful beasts and I'm going to miss it. In my years ownership I replaced the ABC pump and had the system flushed, had an "A" service, replaced both door mirror indicators as they both failed, she had new tyres and bottom ball joints replaced. I never managed to fix the radar cruise control and the keyless locking buttons on the doors failed too. The ceramic coating kept her looking smart and was well worth doing.
All in all a good experience and I always looked back at it with a smile when walking off. The buyer is a dealer but has decided to keep it for a while for himself.
I wish you all happy motoring.
All in all a good experience and I always looked back at it with a smile when walking off. The buyer is a dealer but has decided to keep it for a while for himself.
I wish you all happy motoring.
OP
OP
Very sorry to see you go Jason,thank you for your detailed inputs which are always interesting & informative.What was the mileage ?
Thank you too for letting us know your situation.
Best wishes.
Work has now started on the 215! Watch this space
OP
OP
We certainly will Alex, thank you.
OP
OP
A/C (Air Con) Hidden Menu W220 / W215 S-Class
The air conditioner, Automatic Climate Control (ACC) on the Mercedes-Benz W220 S-Class, W215 CL-Class can be troubleshoot by accessing the hidden menu. In this article we will show you how to access the hidden menus to stream live data from ECU and also read, reset and clear air conditioner fault codes.
The hidden menus on the W220/W215 Auto Climate Control can be used to:-
Stream Sensor Parameter Values including: Engine Fan, A/C Compressor, ACC Flap/Vent, Rear Clear Fault Error Codes
Clear, view, review, erase the Automatic Climate Control fault DTC codes.
There are several hidden menus on the S-Class, let’s first start with showing how to stream some data from the sensor
Hidden Menu 1: How to stream live sensor data, including voltage and engine RPM.
Step 1 Turn ignition key to position 2. All dash lights should be on. Don’t start the engine yet. Turn on climate control.
Step 2 Press and hold the REST button until the screen should display new text starting with NR.01.
Step 3 Press the TEMPERATURE up and down arrows to scroll through the menu. Depending with what sensors and units your S-Class/CL is equipped with, you will see sensor live data on the right of the NR. text.
Here you will be able to see the engine voltage NR.24 or engine RPM NR21.
Step 4 Press REST button again to exit the menu.
NR.00 Temperature inside the cabin, Sensor N22/b1
NR.01 In Car Temperature Sensor (N70b1)
NR.02 Ambient Temperature Sensor (B14)
NR.03 Heater Core Temperature Sensor Left (B10/2)
NR.04 Heater Core Temperature Sensor Right (B10/3)
NR.05 Evaporator Core Temperature Sensor (B10/6)
NR.06 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (B11/4)
NR. 07 Refrigerant (R134A) Pressure Sensor (B12)
NR.22 Engine Crankshaft Rotation Speed, RPM
NR.24 Battery Voltage
If you need the complete list see the attachment file on this BenzWorld.org thread: W220 S-Class Automatic Climate Control (ACC) Hidden Menu
W220/W215 S-Class Automatic Climate Control (ACC) Hidden Menu
Read / retrieve the Fault Codes from Automatic Conditioner Control Unit
Read the Auto Climate Control Fault Memory
You can also access the diagnostic trouble codes right in the ACC. Start by pressing the two rotating knobs in.
Press Air Filter and REST button simultaneously and hold for at least 5 seconds. w220 hidden menu
You show now see a new message on the screen. The message should read “DIAGN. ERROR”
Use the temperature buttons to go up and down. This will allow you to scroll through the fault codes if there are any. s55 air conditioner menu
Read / retrieve the Fault Codes from Automatic Conditioner Control Unit
Read the Auto Climate Control Fault Memory
You can also access the diagnostic trouble codes right in the ACC. Start by pressing the two rotating knobs in.
Press Air Filter and REST button simultaneously and hold for at least 5 seconds. w220 hidden menu
Reset A/C Automatic Conditioner - Erase Trouble Codes
Erase the Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
To erase the fault codes you will first need to scroll through all the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) or the fault codes.
Then set the screen to Fault Code.
Press to extend out the left button and then do the same with the right button. Round knob. ac button out w220
Now press in the left round knob. Next press the right knob in. ac w220 hidden menu
Once you have reset the trouble codes, press the REST button to exit the hidden menu
Conclusion
If you have been having Air Conditioner problems with your Mercedes-Benz W220 S430 S500 S600 S55 AMG, you want to check the Auto Climate Control fault memory. Once you scan through the fault codes, go ahead and reset them. Often times this may solve your A/C problem, but not always.
Note that Pressure Sensor Values can be streamed in parameter NR.07. The Pressure sensor should be around 5.5 to 14 bar. While the refrigerant temperature, measured via sensor B12/1, should be between 65 °F to 110°F approximately and should be parameter NR.08.
If resetting the codes doesn’t fix your A/C problem, you should make sure that the A/C refrigerant level are not low. If they are, use a product such as the A/C Professional Formula R-134a Air Conditioning.
If all fails, your last bet would be to connect your car with an OBD scanner. This will allow you to do further testing and troubleshooting.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If there are any significant errors above please post correction here (In this thread) for all to see.
Simon.
The air conditioner, Automatic Climate Control (ACC) on the Mercedes-Benz W220 S-Class, W215 CL-Class can be troubleshoot by accessing the hidden menu. In this article we will show you how to access the hidden menus to stream live data from ECU and also read, reset and clear air conditioner fault codes.
The hidden menus on the W220/W215 Auto Climate Control can be used to:-
Stream Sensor Parameter Values including: Engine Fan, A/C Compressor, ACC Flap/Vent, Rear Clear Fault Error Codes
Clear, view, review, erase the Automatic Climate Control fault DTC codes.
There are several hidden menus on the S-Class, let’s first start with showing how to stream some data from the sensor
Hidden Menu 1: How to stream live sensor data, including voltage and engine RPM.
Step 1 Turn ignition key to position 2. All dash lights should be on. Don’t start the engine yet. Turn on climate control.
Step 2 Press and hold the REST button until the screen should display new text starting with NR.01.
Step 3 Press the TEMPERATURE up and down arrows to scroll through the menu. Depending with what sensors and units your S-Class/CL is equipped with, you will see sensor live data on the right of the NR. text.
Here you will be able to see the engine voltage NR.24 or engine RPM NR21.
Step 4 Press REST button again to exit the menu.
NR.00 Temperature inside the cabin, Sensor N22/b1
NR.01 In Car Temperature Sensor (N70b1)
NR.02 Ambient Temperature Sensor (B14)
NR.03 Heater Core Temperature Sensor Left (B10/2)
NR.04 Heater Core Temperature Sensor Right (B10/3)
NR.05 Evaporator Core Temperature Sensor (B10/6)
NR.06 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (B11/4)
NR. 07 Refrigerant (R134A) Pressure Sensor (B12)
NR.22 Engine Crankshaft Rotation Speed, RPM
NR.24 Battery Voltage
If you need the complete list see the attachment file on this BenzWorld.org thread: W220 S-Class Automatic Climate Control (ACC) Hidden Menu
W220/W215 S-Class Automatic Climate Control (ACC) Hidden Menu
Read / retrieve the Fault Codes from Automatic Conditioner Control Unit
Read the Auto Climate Control Fault Memory
You can also access the diagnostic trouble codes right in the ACC. Start by pressing the two rotating knobs in.
Press Air Filter and REST button simultaneously and hold for at least 5 seconds. w220 hidden menu
You show now see a new message on the screen. The message should read “DIAGN. ERROR”
Use the temperature buttons to go up and down. This will allow you to scroll through the fault codes if there are any. s55 air conditioner menu
Read / retrieve the Fault Codes from Automatic Conditioner Control Unit
Read the Auto Climate Control Fault Memory
You can also access the diagnostic trouble codes right in the ACC. Start by pressing the two rotating knobs in.
Press Air Filter and REST button simultaneously and hold for at least 5 seconds. w220 hidden menu
Reset A/C Automatic Conditioner - Erase Trouble Codes
Erase the Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
To erase the fault codes you will first need to scroll through all the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) or the fault codes.
Then set the screen to Fault Code.
Press to extend out the left button and then do the same with the right button. Round knob. ac button out w220
Now press in the left round knob. Next press the right knob in. ac w220 hidden menu
Once you have reset the trouble codes, press the REST button to exit the hidden menu
Conclusion
If you have been having Air Conditioner problems with your Mercedes-Benz W220 S430 S500 S600 S55 AMG, you want to check the Auto Climate Control fault memory. Once you scan through the fault codes, go ahead and reset them. Often times this may solve your A/C problem, but not always.
Note that Pressure Sensor Values can be streamed in parameter NR.07. The Pressure sensor should be around 5.5 to 14 bar. While the refrigerant temperature, measured via sensor B12/1, should be between 65 °F to 110°F approximately and should be parameter NR.08.
If resetting the codes doesn’t fix your A/C problem, you should make sure that the A/C refrigerant level are not low. If they are, use a product such as the A/C Professional Formula R-134a Air Conditioning.
If all fails, your last bet would be to connect your car with an OBD scanner. This will allow you to do further testing and troubleshooting.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If there are any significant errors above please post correction here (In this thread) for all to see.
Simon.
OP
OP
Another explanation of the ABC system & some interesting facts concerning
the system fluid & ABC pump from a reputable German company. Splitpin
What is the ABC suspension?
The ABC suspension is an electro-hydraulic active system combined with a coil spring.
The Active Body Control (ABC) can compensate within milliseconds to the rolling and pitching movements of the body when starting, braking and cornering. The ABC is thus superior to air suspension systems.
Care of the ABC system:
The ABC suspension has a gotten a bad reputation because many owners do not maintain it, and critical components become damaged – eventually destroying the whole system. Regular maintenance results in an ABC suspension with the same life expectancy of the rest of the vehicle. Below you will find some hints from our experience.
If it is operated for years with the original hydraulic fluid, or after this fluid has become dirty, then many if not all of the components of the ABC chassis can be destroyed. OR if it is operated with low fluid levels, the owner will have the same result. This includes the hydraulic pump, struts and valve units.
You can easily check your oil quality using the dipstick from the reservoir. This sits next to the fill cover which contains the white filter. Take a white lint free towel and pat the oil from the dipstick onto it. Clean oil is green, light brown in ‘fair condition. IT SHOULD BE REPLACED BEFORE IT BECOMES DARK BROWN OR BLACK. If it is very dark brown or black, replace it immediately (or be prepared to replace expensive components).
The system uses about 15-16 liter of Pentosinöl (A00198924003-10, or Pentosin CHF 11S). To replace you will need about 10-12 liters. This will replace MOST, but not ALL the hydraulic fluid, as some will remain in the individual spring reservoirs.
But, that is not a major problem. The large amount of new fluid mixes with the small amount of old fluid. You will also replace the filter in the ABC reservoir with the new 3mm filter. This new fine filter will clean the resulting fluid mixture. After about 750 -1500 miles you should once again flush/replace both the Pentosin fluid and the 3mm filter. Then you should end up with only clean/green fluid in the system.
In one of the pictures you can see an additional filter, which we developed. This magnetic filter is specially designed to trap metal abrasion particles that can come from components of the ABC chassis. These metal shavings are caused when old ‘dirty/abrasive’ fluid flows through the ABC hydraulic pump, causing mild to severe erosion of metal. This magnetic filter removes any future metal abrasion or metal chips from the fluid, thus protecting the whole system (the fluid is repeatedly flushed and cleaned with every circulation through the reservoir).
Once metal shavings are created, they can infiltrate the entire system, making it necessary to disassemble the entire system and clean by hand!
The installation of the magnetic filter will help prevent this from happening. With the crystal clear case, as you open the hood, you can readily see and check the color of the ABC fluid and observe whether any metal has been collected by the filter. The filter is washable, so you make a one-time purchase. In the rare event that somehow something gets broken, all parts can be ordered individually.
CLEAN OIL is important for the long term durability of the ABC system
In the first picture you can clearly see an ABC pump that has run 120,00 miles in the clean ABC system looks like. In the pictures below, the pump has been running about 48,000 miles, and the fluid was very dark brown. The metal debris in the oil has produced fluid that is the equivalent of liquid sandpaper – which has rubbed and damaged everything - with every mile that was driven. Moreover, with this abrasive fluid, more friction occurs in the system, especially in the ABC pump. High friction means more heat. On some occasions pumps have become so hot that they overheat and glow! When this occurs, EVERYTHING DETERIORATES your fluid becomes progressively worse and begins to smell like burnt oil.
If the Pentosinöl in the ABC system is renewed every 15 to 30K miles, or every ~3 years, depending on load and driving style, the ABC system should last for 300,000 miles or longer.
This longevity has been proven by our own car and the maintenance we have done on it. This car is a W215 CL 65 AMG V12 Biturbo, and after about 6K to miles the fluid begins to turn brown. After 12K miles it is dark brown.
For vehicles with less engine power, it may take longer. But we have found the fluid usually starts to turn a dark brown to black color after ~18-25K miles. For vehicles that are have not had adequate service to the ABC system can change color even faster after the first flush/change.
We have driven our frequently used 2003 W220 S Class long version S55 AMG Kompressor ~250K miles. We have changed the ABC fluid approximately every 18K miles. All suspension components on this car are original except for 2 dust covers for rear shocks and a pressure hose to the right front strut. AND, the ABC pump from our vehicle had after all these miles is still ~190 Bar (~2,850 PSI) at operating temperature.
Our latest acquisition an S Class W220 S65 AMG V12 Biturbo long version 25K miles. The Pentosinöl was black as tar.
We had to disassemble everything clean and repair many components.
At this point, it is important - both for vehicle owners with ABC suspension (and Mercedes shop foremen and those who want to be) – to remember that the Pentosinöl has properties similar to brake fluid. They are both hygroscopic meaning they absorb water, such as from the air. Therefore, it is IMPORTANT that the Pentosinöl is replaced after a maximum of 5 years to prevent corrosion in the suspension components. (here they state this time interval is also recommended by Mercedes Benz – certainly it is for brake fluid, but not clearly stated for ABC fluid as far as I know).
For this reason alone, this fluid is not maintenance free as is always claimed by the MB dealer. You can check about the hygroscopic effect under brake fluid at Wikipedia.
Pentisol is hygroscopic, like brake fluid it absorbs moisture and deteriorates!
We found one incident where a SL 55 AMG was stored in October and brought out for driving in April. During the winter, the pistons had rusted in the ABC hydraulic pump. When first started, the pump was destroyed and there was, within seconds, a red error message on the instrument cluster.
"ABC defective please visit workshop". If that appears, the pump pressure is below 100 bar. At any pressure of 99 bar or lower, this red error message appears and the car DEFINITELY should not be driven further.
ABC pumps and systems are ONLY destroyed by bad fluid!!
The ABC pump is lubricated by the Pentosinöl and 200 bar pressure which it produces. This fluid passes through micro sieves and around and through very small passages to the main shaft and main bearings. Contaminated fluid first contacts the screens. These become partially plugged, and as a result the main bearings are inadequately or not at all lubricated. Then, the pump starts making bearing noise. When that occurs, if you then press the ABC button for lifting and your vehicle goes up. During the raising of the vehicle the ABC pump is quiet for a short time. When it reaches full height, the pump becomes loud again!! Reason for this is that during the lifting operation, the main shaft is pressed under load into the main bearing, so the ABC pump for this moment is quiet. When the vehicle is at full height the load is no longer holding the main shaft to the bearing. Thus, the main shaft is rattling in the main bearings because the fluid pressure/film is missing.
IF the wear of the shaft and bearing is advanced, the pump is constantly loud.
It also happens that if the oil supply rapidly goes to zero, then the main shaft overheats the main bearing and they VERY RAPIDLY wear on each other. The pump is ruined. In these cases, repair is not possible. The pump housing is useless because the bearing seats are damaged in the pump housing and new bearing not available.
The most common cause of pump damage is the overheating of the pump through abrasive fluid. The metal debris in the oil is like sandpaper between the rotating parts. Due to the poor FLUID, higher friction results and the pump over-heats and is destroyed.
In rare cases, the pressure housing may crack, thus the pump leaks and fluid level drops dramatically. Also, the breaking off of the plugs from the pressure housing can cause this catastrophic loss of fluid and pump destruction.
Consequences of inadequate care and maintenance of your ABC system:
Dirty fluid will first slow the ABC hydraulic pump (plugged sieves). Many errors of the suspension result from the insufficient pump pressure. If the pump pressure of 200 Bar drops to about 160 Bar, the instrument panel will display in white/black: "ABC defective, please visit workshop".
If you then continue to drive the vehicle and the pump is working, the warning message will soon appear in red, (the pump pressure has dropped below 100 bar) and the ABC system goes into limp home mode. It closes the shut-off valves in the valve unit, so that the vehicle does not fall down. Your vehicle drives as if the shock absorber is defective.
With a red error message it is best to stop immediately and have your car transported to a service facility. If your ABC pump fails suddenly damage usually occurs throughout the system, as the fluid brings the chips with it. Continuing, the chips are distributed with the still small pressure in the system. That would be the worst thing that can happen. Your ABC suspension would then actually be a total loss. Mercedes Benz then recommends that all ABC suspension parts be replaced with new components. The ABC pump is a precision high pressure hydraulic pump that generates 200 bar, so everything must function precisely and with VERY low clearances. A metal chip left in the system is sufficient for the new ABC pump to be destroyed. Flushing the system in place brings no guarantee that it is clean, due to the branches (nooks and crannies??) throughout this complex system. A complete dis-assembly, flushing and cleaning by hand is the ONLY possible way to avoid future problems from such debris. Any other approach is Russian Roulette.
What is important when installing hydraulic pumps?
There is one more important thing to note: never crank hydraulic pumps empty or dry by hand or with the engine starting, this is the death of any hydraulic pump. On the high-gloss, lapped aluminum surfaces, which have a surface as smooth as glass, grooves and scratches occur when rotated dry, especially with vane pumps, which leads to a loss of performance or other damage to the pump. Furthermore, this is also not good for the plain bearings, even aluminum surfaces. So don't unpack and play around with it, but fill the pump with oil and then you can turn it and install it. Fill both areas of the ABC servo pumps. We would like to send all pumps pre-filled, but we are not allowed to. See shipping guidelines and environmental guidelines. I know the curiosity is great, new spare parts and turning it first, but it is completely wrong and dangerous. At Mercedes, I know, the pumps are pre-filled. So before you install the pumps do not turn them, remove the plugs, fill the ABC area of the pump and then fill the servo area, then you can turn it. Put the plug back on and then install it and never disconnect the suction hoses and remove the container with the old oil and reinstall it, this is often routine in workshops, but fundamentally wrong. The sealing plugs do not let dust or dirt fall into them during installation, nobody does an engine wash beforehand and some vehicles look bad in the engine compartment. But even relatively clean vehicles have dirt, dust and sand everywhere in the engine compartment, which is normal. When working, no matter who is doing it, something can always come loose and fall into it. That is death for hydraulic systems.
abcteile24.de
If you want to see the photos (Especially the dirty ABC fluid one!) the link above
will guide you.
the system fluid & ABC pump from a reputable German company. Splitpin
What is the ABC suspension?
The ABC suspension is an electro-hydraulic active system combined with a coil spring.
The Active Body Control (ABC) can compensate within milliseconds to the rolling and pitching movements of the body when starting, braking and cornering. The ABC is thus superior to air suspension systems.
Care of the ABC system:
The ABC suspension has a gotten a bad reputation because many owners do not maintain it, and critical components become damaged – eventually destroying the whole system. Regular maintenance results in an ABC suspension with the same life expectancy of the rest of the vehicle. Below you will find some hints from our experience.
If it is operated for years with the original hydraulic fluid, or after this fluid has become dirty, then many if not all of the components of the ABC chassis can be destroyed. OR if it is operated with low fluid levels, the owner will have the same result. This includes the hydraulic pump, struts and valve units.
You can easily check your oil quality using the dipstick from the reservoir. This sits next to the fill cover which contains the white filter. Take a white lint free towel and pat the oil from the dipstick onto it. Clean oil is green, light brown in ‘fair condition. IT SHOULD BE REPLACED BEFORE IT BECOMES DARK BROWN OR BLACK. If it is very dark brown or black, replace it immediately (or be prepared to replace expensive components).
The system uses about 15-16 liter of Pentosinöl (A00198924003-10, or Pentosin CHF 11S). To replace you will need about 10-12 liters. This will replace MOST, but not ALL the hydraulic fluid, as some will remain in the individual spring reservoirs.
But, that is not a major problem. The large amount of new fluid mixes with the small amount of old fluid. You will also replace the filter in the ABC reservoir with the new 3mm filter. This new fine filter will clean the resulting fluid mixture. After about 750 -1500 miles you should once again flush/replace both the Pentosin fluid and the 3mm filter. Then you should end up with only clean/green fluid in the system.
In one of the pictures you can see an additional filter, which we developed. This magnetic filter is specially designed to trap metal abrasion particles that can come from components of the ABC chassis. These metal shavings are caused when old ‘dirty/abrasive’ fluid flows through the ABC hydraulic pump, causing mild to severe erosion of metal. This magnetic filter removes any future metal abrasion or metal chips from the fluid, thus protecting the whole system (the fluid is repeatedly flushed and cleaned with every circulation through the reservoir).
Once metal shavings are created, they can infiltrate the entire system, making it necessary to disassemble the entire system and clean by hand!
The installation of the magnetic filter will help prevent this from happening. With the crystal clear case, as you open the hood, you can readily see and check the color of the ABC fluid and observe whether any metal has been collected by the filter. The filter is washable, so you make a one-time purchase. In the rare event that somehow something gets broken, all parts can be ordered individually.
CLEAN OIL is important for the long term durability of the ABC system
In the first picture you can clearly see an ABC pump that has run 120,00 miles in the clean ABC system looks like. In the pictures below, the pump has been running about 48,000 miles, and the fluid was very dark brown. The metal debris in the oil has produced fluid that is the equivalent of liquid sandpaper – which has rubbed and damaged everything - with every mile that was driven. Moreover, with this abrasive fluid, more friction occurs in the system, especially in the ABC pump. High friction means more heat. On some occasions pumps have become so hot that they overheat and glow! When this occurs, EVERYTHING DETERIORATES your fluid becomes progressively worse and begins to smell like burnt oil.
If the Pentosinöl in the ABC system is renewed every 15 to 30K miles, or every ~3 years, depending on load and driving style, the ABC system should last for 300,000 miles or longer.
This longevity has been proven by our own car and the maintenance we have done on it. This car is a W215 CL 65 AMG V12 Biturbo, and after about 6K to miles the fluid begins to turn brown. After 12K miles it is dark brown.
For vehicles with less engine power, it may take longer. But we have found the fluid usually starts to turn a dark brown to black color after ~18-25K miles. For vehicles that are have not had adequate service to the ABC system can change color even faster after the first flush/change.
We have driven our frequently used 2003 W220 S Class long version S55 AMG Kompressor ~250K miles. We have changed the ABC fluid approximately every 18K miles. All suspension components on this car are original except for 2 dust covers for rear shocks and a pressure hose to the right front strut. AND, the ABC pump from our vehicle had after all these miles is still ~190 Bar (~2,850 PSI) at operating temperature.
Our latest acquisition an S Class W220 S65 AMG V12 Biturbo long version 25K miles. The Pentosinöl was black as tar.
We had to disassemble everything clean and repair many components.
At this point, it is important - both for vehicle owners with ABC suspension (and Mercedes shop foremen and those who want to be) – to remember that the Pentosinöl has properties similar to brake fluid. They are both hygroscopic meaning they absorb water, such as from the air. Therefore, it is IMPORTANT that the Pentosinöl is replaced after a maximum of 5 years to prevent corrosion in the suspension components. (here they state this time interval is also recommended by Mercedes Benz – certainly it is for brake fluid, but not clearly stated for ABC fluid as far as I know).
For this reason alone, this fluid is not maintenance free as is always claimed by the MB dealer. You can check about the hygroscopic effect under brake fluid at Wikipedia.
Pentisol is hygroscopic, like brake fluid it absorbs moisture and deteriorates!
We found one incident where a SL 55 AMG was stored in October and brought out for driving in April. During the winter, the pistons had rusted in the ABC hydraulic pump. When first started, the pump was destroyed and there was, within seconds, a red error message on the instrument cluster.
"ABC defective please visit workshop". If that appears, the pump pressure is below 100 bar. At any pressure of 99 bar or lower, this red error message appears and the car DEFINITELY should not be driven further.
ABC pumps and systems are ONLY destroyed by bad fluid!!
The ABC pump is lubricated by the Pentosinöl and 200 bar pressure which it produces. This fluid passes through micro sieves and around and through very small passages to the main shaft and main bearings. Contaminated fluid first contacts the screens. These become partially plugged, and as a result the main bearings are inadequately or not at all lubricated. Then, the pump starts making bearing noise. When that occurs, if you then press the ABC button for lifting and your vehicle goes up. During the raising of the vehicle the ABC pump is quiet for a short time. When it reaches full height, the pump becomes loud again!! Reason for this is that during the lifting operation, the main shaft is pressed under load into the main bearing, so the ABC pump for this moment is quiet. When the vehicle is at full height the load is no longer holding the main shaft to the bearing. Thus, the main shaft is rattling in the main bearings because the fluid pressure/film is missing.
IF the wear of the shaft and bearing is advanced, the pump is constantly loud.
It also happens that if the oil supply rapidly goes to zero, then the main shaft overheats the main bearing and they VERY RAPIDLY wear on each other. The pump is ruined. In these cases, repair is not possible. The pump housing is useless because the bearing seats are damaged in the pump housing and new bearing not available.
The most common cause of pump damage is the overheating of the pump through abrasive fluid. The metal debris in the oil is like sandpaper between the rotating parts. Due to the poor FLUID, higher friction results and the pump over-heats and is destroyed.
In rare cases, the pressure housing may crack, thus the pump leaks and fluid level drops dramatically. Also, the breaking off of the plugs from the pressure housing can cause this catastrophic loss of fluid and pump destruction.
Consequences of inadequate care and maintenance of your ABC system:
Dirty fluid will first slow the ABC hydraulic pump (plugged sieves). Many errors of the suspension result from the insufficient pump pressure. If the pump pressure of 200 Bar drops to about 160 Bar, the instrument panel will display in white/black: "ABC defective, please visit workshop".
If you then continue to drive the vehicle and the pump is working, the warning message will soon appear in red, (the pump pressure has dropped below 100 bar) and the ABC system goes into limp home mode. It closes the shut-off valves in the valve unit, so that the vehicle does not fall down. Your vehicle drives as if the shock absorber is defective.
With a red error message it is best to stop immediately and have your car transported to a service facility. If your ABC pump fails suddenly damage usually occurs throughout the system, as the fluid brings the chips with it. Continuing, the chips are distributed with the still small pressure in the system. That would be the worst thing that can happen. Your ABC suspension would then actually be a total loss. Mercedes Benz then recommends that all ABC suspension parts be replaced with new components. The ABC pump is a precision high pressure hydraulic pump that generates 200 bar, so everything must function precisely and with VERY low clearances. A metal chip left in the system is sufficient for the new ABC pump to be destroyed. Flushing the system in place brings no guarantee that it is clean, due to the branches (nooks and crannies??) throughout this complex system. A complete dis-assembly, flushing and cleaning by hand is the ONLY possible way to avoid future problems from such debris. Any other approach is Russian Roulette.
What is important when installing hydraulic pumps?
There is one more important thing to note: never crank hydraulic pumps empty or dry by hand or with the engine starting, this is the death of any hydraulic pump. On the high-gloss, lapped aluminum surfaces, which have a surface as smooth as glass, grooves and scratches occur when rotated dry, especially with vane pumps, which leads to a loss of performance or other damage to the pump. Furthermore, this is also not good for the plain bearings, even aluminum surfaces. So don't unpack and play around with it, but fill the pump with oil and then you can turn it and install it. Fill both areas of the ABC servo pumps. We would like to send all pumps pre-filled, but we are not allowed to. See shipping guidelines and environmental guidelines. I know the curiosity is great, new spare parts and turning it first, but it is completely wrong and dangerous. At Mercedes, I know, the pumps are pre-filled. So before you install the pumps do not turn them, remove the plugs, fill the ABC area of the pump and then fill the servo area, then you can turn it. Put the plug back on and then install it and never disconnect the suction hoses and remove the container with the old oil and reinstall it, this is often routine in workshops, but fundamentally wrong. The sealing plugs do not let dust or dirt fall into them during installation, nobody does an engine wash beforehand and some vehicles look bad in the engine compartment. But even relatively clean vehicles have dirt, dust and sand everywhere in the engine compartment, which is normal. When working, no matter who is doing it, something can always come loose and fall into it. That is death for hydraulic systems.
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OP
OP
Does your Convenience entry/exit Steering wheel + seat work ?
I have yet to find the method to get the seat to auto withdraw when exiting
the car. Have you been successful/does yours work ?
I have previously had it reset on Star without permanent success.
Simon
I have yet to find the method to get the seat to auto withdraw when exiting
the car. Have you been successful/does yours work ?
I have previously had it reset on Star without permanent success.
Simon
OP
OP
Well Alex, I have fun been watching to no avail ! Purely by chance I found it on the main forum. It's certainly an extremely thorough & meticulous restoration plus being highly educational. So let's give Register members a chance to see it here please ???
I did not want to double post the video as mods can be a bit funny about that sometimes. I will post them all up here and see how they feel 
OP
OP
That was in July Pete ..any progress yet ?