The 2020 CL215 Owners Register

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Intermittent front left indicator was finally rectified by the Merc garage when they replaced the front right ABC strut last month. "They usually go", they said (the indicator) - faulty wiring is the problem ... the bulb still works when the hazard warning lights are activated. They charged for a new "connection unit", so sounds like the same component.

Door mirror ... retract/open functions only work on one of the keys ... perhaps I need to programme the second one?

On the first key, they retract/open and dip in reverse fine, but passenger one does not return properly when reverse has been activated. I press the retract button on the door panel and then the open button. All is then fine, but I don't know if this is a wiring break (on the reverse circuit) or something else. It's a quirk and I live with it!

Excellent, thank you. Have you still got your car ?
 
Couldn`t agree more. Incidentally now knowing the relative rarity of the CL600 it would be interesting to gain an owners/past impression of one........
Swotty, Oxey, Phil Woods or mark-le-b perhaps ?

Sorry, late again, but here goes ....

I bought mine (2003 TT) in 2014 with only 46K on the clock and full service history. Was fine for a couple of years and then I've had to replace the coil packs, the ABC pump and now the front right ABC strut. Also a wobbly prop-shaft. Also have the usual oil weep from the cooler sat in the engine "V", but it's so fine that it's not worth the €000s to get it done.

Had the a/c cabin thermostat go and the a/c /heater motor became noisy but has settled down again. Noisy petrol pump turned out to be a faulty fuel regulator. Had the usual front passenger seat occupancy light fault, sorted again by Mercedes.

The front suspension is creaking and Mercedes want €2k to replace the wishbones and tie rods, so I'm going to spray all the bushes with lithium grease to see if that sorts it, albeit temporarily.

Other problems? Well, it's in Iridium Silver with black upholstery :( and there are about 4 or 4 small spots of oxidation which have bubbled up through the paintwork but which are not getting any worse. I know the rear right ABC unit will need replacement in a couple of years and presumably both l/h side units in due course. She's also still on 18" Difdas ... and still silver!

I had the gearbox oil flushed and changed at 50K. The box is supposedly sealed for life, but it's exactly the same model which is in my XKR (as Jaguar bought in the Merc Box, not having one of their own which could handle the torque of the supercharged XK) and the oil does need changing as a number of XK owners can testify.

The Merc garage in Bergerac (complete shysters) wanted to charge me €900 for dismantling, rectifying and reassembling the box due to an intermittent fault - again, this is well known in the Jaguar XK Club and the solution is to disconnect, dry off, clean and reconnect the plug at the rear of the box .... €50 at Mercedes Périgueux, who are brilliant with the car.

Had to have replaced the primary and secondary air pumps (?) which operate on start up.

She's on 66,000 miles now and I rotate the cars so am only doing 2,500-3,000 miles a year in her.

If I wasn't having a classic renovated and another upgraded, plus trying to sort a hiccup on the XJ6 (just changed the injector seals - we'll see!), plus the recent expenditure upgrading the XK ... and the new garage to house all the cars, I'd love the have the CL repainted, possibly wrapped ... but the interior will still be black. I'd also like bigger wheels and a more tuneful exhaust. However, Mrs Swotty has put her foot down with a firm hand since I bought the Corvette earlier this year (although she loves it) and insists I spend more time and money on the house and pool (she hates both).

I have had numerous conversations with friends in the classic car club who have bought older premium cars ... Bentley, Rolls, BMW and who moan about the cost of the upkeep. The only thing which is cheap about such cars, like the CL, is the initial purchase cost - you still have the annual running costs of a premium motor. Without checking, I reckon I have spent as much on the servicing and above-mentioned maintenance as I did on the purchase price, which was £8K.

As a cororally, I need a new kingpin (only the one side) for my 1965 Wolseley. This was, in the day, a part common throughout the BMC range, but they were also fitted to Jensens ... so the price nowadays is the Jensen price ... £400 for a pair! o_O I have bought some new bushes and will see if they take up the slack ... Yorkshire thrift sometimes works out.

Sorry for the rambling ...... the CL is a beautiful, classic shape I have always admired. It seats 4 adults in spacious comfort and is effortless to drive and park, even in the narrow streets of the local towns. Everyone who has been in it has been impressed by the space, ride and serenity. Yes, it's not an S Class, but it is both elegant and refined.

Oh ... and there's the engine. Thinking of getting a CL, I did a lot of research. The '55K was the obvious choice, but I had the supercharged V8 Jag XK and wanted something more refined ... and powerful. I tried both '55s and 600s and the difference was night and day, so the 600 it was. The peak torque range is both phenomenal and real-world usable, even nowadays.

If you want to run a premium and powerful car you must, in my opinion, be prepared to have, in effect, a sinking fund for maintenance ... similar to building maintenance. Mine has cost me around €8K over 6 years, so around €1300 or £1200 a year. That includes servicing, tyres and the above-mentioned repairs which are well-documented with the model. I spent £1000 last year on a new clutch and service for our runabout Fiat Panda which has only done 35,000 miles in 15 years.

I did my research on the 600 ... coil packs, ABC pump and struts, door wiring harness problems, oil cooler leaks ... so was disappointed but not surprised when most of those happened ..... and will continue to happen.

Do I regret the purchase? Not at all.

Will I keep her? Of course ... unless an equally maintained and cared-for example comes up in red/burgundy with beige interior!

Is she an investment? Not at the moment ... possibly as a Newtimer in 5-10 years' time.

Would I recommend the model? Try a '55K and then a 600 and judge for yourself. They are very different. I have 2 other V8s (which are both very different in themselves), so the 600 is a more refined performer.

Apologies for yet further rambling ... hope that is helpful.
 
Hi, yes, and intending to keep her ... unless a red/burgundy with beige interior comes along ... the silver is oh so commonplace!

@Post No.24. Brilliant post indeed Swotty & of considerable interest to us all, grateful thanks.

The creaking suspension is documented elsewhere & often overcome short term by injecting grease into affected boot(s), Lithium should
do fine.
There are recommendations now to renew the gearbox oil every 50K.
Your comments on ownership costs & renewals will attract attention for any incoming owner., which is needed.
 
@Post No.24. Brilliant post indeed Swotty & of considerable interest to us all, grateful thanks.

The creaking suspension is documented elsewhere & often overcome short term by injecting grease into affected boot(s), Lithium should
do fine.
There are recommendations now to renew the gearbox oil every 50K.
Your comments on ownership costs & renewals will attract attention for any incoming owner., which is needed.

Thanks - good to know I'm on the right track :))) re. the creaking suspension!

I just love the shape of the car and she's just so easy to drive. I may have already mentioned this , but I would love anything but the ubiquitous silver and black interior. :)

For anyone thinking of getting one ..... try and get one with the coil packs and abc pump already done ... the corner abc suspension units tend to go at odd intervals, it seems.

..... and, there are issues with all second-hand premium cars ... but you spend your money gradually on the items you can see, rather than on the initial cost. My XK, being the 2001 model, has just had new (and necessary) timing chains and tensioners, costing £1100. The 2002 model has the 3rd generation tensioners ... and a 6 speed gearbox! Heigh ho.

Happy motoring .... soon these models will be highly sought after .... there are under 100 CL600s left, compared with twice as many CL55Ks.
 
I sold mine four years ago replaced it with my CL 216 63 Biturbo.

Also Mr Kipling has sold his.
 
I sold mine four years ago replaced it with my CL 216 63 Biturbo.

Also Mr Kipling has sold his.

Thanks for that.
Having owned the car for a number of years I assume that it was an enjoyable experience ?
The 2010 register that you started proved to be interesting too.
 
Still have mine...4 years on. Though probably only about 2000 miles per year at present. Dearest thing to go was the instrument cluster...£90.
 
Still have mine...4 years on. Though probably only about 2000 miles per year at present. Dearest thing to go was the instrument cluster...£90.

Very good & pleasing to learn of the reliability. Not many cluster failures notified on the CL215.
With that annual mileage what do you do for servicing ? it`s something I am going to contend with myself.
 
20 March 2017 Snippets of interest.

Last November Glass’s Guide declared the C215 version of the Mercedes-Benz CL500, which ran from 2000 to 2007, its used car hero of the month.
“The CL is a top-of-the-range grand tourer that is very well specified, and a stylish and comfortable way to travel,” said Robert Redman at Glass’s Guide. “It is a Mercedes-Benz built in the ‘old way’. If properly maintained, it will last for many more years and probably prove to be a sound investment.”
in fact, the CL might be used car hero of the decade, not just the month. As the guide noted, good used ones are available for around £7000 – or a tenth of what they cost new. In fact, prices start at around £2500.
That is the money one dealer is asking for his 2001/X-reg CL500 with a heroic 160,000 miles and full service history. Unfortunately, he describes the suspension as ‘Airmatic’, which it isn’t. In so doing, he has unwittingly drawn attention to the CL’s Achilles heel and the main reason it’s such spectacular value: its Active Body Control suspension.
Basically, a pump sends oil around the car’s four interconnected dampers, varying the pressures in each to maintain a stable ride and improve body control in corners. At high speeds, it lowers the car by up to 25mm. It’s a brilliant but unreliable piece of kit and costs a fortune to put right.

An acquaintance who owns a CL55 AMG (and loves it to bits) told me he has spent £16,000 on it in the past six years, much of it on the suspension, the rest on servicing and tyres. (Splitpin ..No mention of mileage)
His dedication to the four-wheeled money pit on his driveway speaks volumes about the more positive aspects of the big CL. Even the standard CL500 bristled with technical innovations, including the aforementioned trick suspension, and was only the second car (the first being the S-Class) to have Mercedes’ Distronic radar-assisted autonomous cruise con

Naturally, as a flagship model, it was loaded with kit, everything from powered doors and bootlid to electric leather seats and four-zone air-con to parking sensors. Options included a TV and a voice-activated telephone. Much of the infotainment kit is prehistoric by today’s standards, but it’s all part of the motor’s once cutting-edge allure.

The CL500 was powered by a 306bhp 5.0-litre V8 and was joined by the sportier 5.4-litre CL55, serving up 360bhp, and a 5.8-litre CL600 V12 with 367bhp. The CL55 needs careful buying, because in 2002 it gained a supercharger (Kompressor) and an extra 140bhp, taking it to 500bhp. Of the two, it’s definitely the one to go for.
Small beer? Keep your eyes peeled for the bi-turbo 5.5-litre CL600 with 500bhp and the 6.0-litre CL65 AMG with 603bhp. You’ll need to look hard, because the CL500 dominates the classifieds, and with good reason: it’s the least complicated and kindest on the pocket yet still packs a punch.

Mercedes-Benz CL problems - buyer beware…
ENGINE
Early versions of the V8 and V12 suffered water in the fuel caused by fuel tank condensation. On the V12, check for oil weep at the front timing cover caused by a blocked crankcase oil breather; also for oil leaking from the rubber gasket around the oil cooler between the cylinder banks. Change the oil and filter every 10k miles.

IGNITION
V8 has twin-spark heads, with one coil pack per pair. Coils are reliable and not too expensive. The V12 has a set of six coils per bank, each set costing £1000. They tend to fail when the plugs are changed.

TRANSMISSION
It’s tough. On all models, the transmission can switch to limp-home mode and third gear won’t engage. It’s a gearbox-out job.

SUSPENSION
Check for warning lights. (White: something’s up. Red: run away.) A faulty system will default to the hard, sporty setting. Struts can leak and each costs around £700. Pump control valves (there are two, each costing £1000) can fail, too. Check the strut top links for looseness

ELECTRICS
Check for water in the passenger footwell caused by a blocked scuttle drain. Much of the wiring connects here and damp will wreak havoc.
BODY
Aluminium-steel body can rust at the rear wheel arches, the bottom of the doors and the rear screen.
(Splitpin)This is galvanic corrosion....post on it to follow shortly.
 
The CL215 ABC Suspension Warts & All

Make no mistake, this is a highly complex system.
Basically it is a computer controlled hydraulic method of keeping the car level at all times. It succeeds handsomely.
The computer monitors system sensors & gives resultant commands to the two valve blocks (Front & rear) to add or remove hydraulic fluid from the damper struts, this occurs at hyper fast speeds
Obviously there is far more to it than that. This is explained below.

The system has a bad name especially fed by the armchair pundits who enjoy giving dire warnings,
repeated by others.

Unquestionably ABC can be extremely expensive to maintain.
This particularly if the repairer/engineer/owner does not fully understand the system & how it works.
M-B indicate that the ABC is maintenance free but empirical knowledge suggests otherwise.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

The Mercedes Benz ABC System Troubleshooting Guide


Darron Bruxvoort produced an outstanding thesis regarding the ABC system used on our cars in 2014.
It was comprehensively researched from a wide spectrum of authentic sources & provides a detailed description
of the system, its workings, individual component construction & failings, together with system fault diagnosis.
It also contains full system diagrams & photographic images for easy recognition of components & has a very useful blog underneath which itself is of particular interest.

It is not a quick read & requires careful study, there is a mass of information that can be extracted for the benefit of we few Register members.
I treat it as the owners bible.

 
SNIPPET

Are your shockabsorber Boots/Dust Covers split or cracked ?

These items are vital to keep grit or dirt away from the strut seals.
If grit gets on seals it scores the bores & leakage initially starts &
progressively worsens.
Ensure that you examine the dust covers carefully because in the
compressed state splits are often hidden.

If the seals become hardened through inactivity they harden, contract
& lose their resilience & become ineffective. This is another good reason
for not leaving your CL inactive for extended periods.
 
SNIPPET

MSL Parts Ltd are not part of Acid`s firm they are an entirely different setup ...... "It is MSL Parts you need, we are two separate businesses and operate completely independently of MSL Parts, they are contactable on 0121 772 4455"
They have a reasonable selection of parts for the CL215 & have an Ebay shop on msl.parts on eBay
 
Just found this thread and thanks for all of the fab information and history to date, really love my CL55 AMG (ok it is Silver and Black) but that was actually my favourite colour combo when looking and I am definitely learning as I go and keen to keep well maintained.
 
It’s funny how the dire “ABC expensive” myth is still alive.

The system is better understood now, and the MB ‘never needs attention’ has been debunked too (much like gearbox sealed for life).

Regular fluid changes will prolong the life of the system.

MB actually do a recon pump for around £500ish.

Valve blocks can be rebuilt with Viton o rings, I think the kits are around £85, there are experienced indies who can do it for you.

The pulsation dampers/spheres are about £170.

Time has made it much more understood by Indies, and much less scary. The parts are much cheaper. (I think when I bought my CL the pumps were around £1500, and valve blocks £500).

It is similar to the suspension banned on F1 cars, (because it was too good) and is superb, comfortable, supple, yet when you hustle it keeps the car flat, and stable.

They are achingly beautiful from all angles, and just so special to drive on a daily basis.

Mine has just sailed through its MOT. 20yrs old this year, but oh so timeless.
 
It’s funny how the dire “ABC expensive” myth is still alive.

The system is better understood now, and the MB ‘never needs attention’ has been debunked too (much like gearbox sealed for life).

Regular fluid changes will prolong the life of the system.

MB actually do a recon pump for around £500ish.

Valve blocks can be rebuilt with Viton o rings, I think the kits are around £85, there are experienced indies who can do it for you.

The pulsation dampers/spheres are about £170.

Time has made it much more understood by Indies, and much less scary. The parts are much cheaper. (I think when I bought my CL the pumps were around £1500, and valve blocks £500).

It is similar to the suspension banned on F1 cars, (because it was too good) and is superb, comfortable, supple, yet when you hustle it keeps the car flat, and stable.

They are achingly beautiful from all angles, and just so special to drive on a daily basis.

Mine has just sailed through its MOT. 20yrs old this year, but oh so timeless.
 
I totally agree with Flyinspanner (any luck in sadly selling yours yet?).

I just checked when I bought mine and it was January 2020 so still very early days for me and yes I have had a few issues but this is nearly a 20 year old car! I knew about the ABC issues before I purchased, so knew what I was getting into, but by researching and listening to those in the know, it becomes far less daunting, especially if you are like me and not particularly mechanical but just love your cars.

Here are the costs of my recent ABC repair work:

Accumulators (Part No 2203270115) £183 each
Oil Filter (Part No 0031846101) £34.40
Pulsation Damper (Part No 2203270215) £134
Hydraulic CFH 115 Oil £15.80 per litre so the 12 litres costs £189.90 (that is the main eye watering one for oil) but I was happy to have the original Mercedes oil to maintain system at its best

I used a garage called PSC Autocentre in Cheltenham which I can highly recommend:

Diagnosis was £123.75
Labour £371.25

It is for sure a gorgeous looking for car and I love driving it, the ability to change your suspension ride at the touch of a button on a car registered in 2002 is amazing when you come to think about it.

Persevere, research and keep learning as a very rewarding car to own.

Be great to get us 'CLs' together when the situation allows.
 
I haven’t really been seriously trying to sell it, but may do this month, as I really need an estate or van for new career.
 

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