Trans sum leak

[merc85]

have you made sure the Old seal is out and not still sitting in there? as this maybe why its not sealing/fitted correctly

 

[Deleted member 138290]

Forget the photo s as there irrelevant now..... I stripped everything back again and discovered that I must been distracted yesterday as I had not tightened the bolts properly at one end of the plate, tho I’ve no idea if this was my leak issue but double checked everything I put back earlier and will check again AM but if still got fluid running down the side of the gr box housing tomorrow then I’ve no idea

 

[Deleted member 138290]

The OLD pilot bush had an additional thick red seal on it along with 2 black seals. But as said that’s now not the issue. Issue is why there’s fluid runny down the side of the gr box housing right where the fluid filler pipe is but it’s not from there and only runs down the side when running ??

 

[pmcgsmurf]

The OLD pilot bush had an additional thick red seal on it along with 2 black seals. But as said that’s now not the issue. Issue is why there’s fluid runny down the side of the gr box housing right where the fluid filler pipe is but it’s not from there and only runs down the side when running ??

Have you maybe damaged one of the pipes to the radiator?

 

[Trickythemerc]

You swapped the seal from the old pilot bushing to the new one ...? Try swapping it back and refit the original pilot bushing and see if the leak stops. My thinking is perhaps the seal design has changed on the bushing.

 

[Deleted member 138290]

No it’s defo running down the side of the gr box housing ?? The pipes from the rad have a banjo bolt don’t they ? The 5 speed does take 7.5 litres approx doesn’t it ??? Just trying to delete senarios....

 

[pmcgsmurf]

No it’s defo running down the side of the gr box housing ?? The pipes from the rad have a banjo bolt don’t they ? The 5 speed does take 7.5 litres approx doesn’t it ??? Just trying to delete senarios....

You have me confused now.

Did you measure what came out and fill the same back in?

Did you drain the sump and also the Torque Convertor, cooler and lines if you have filled it with 7.5L?

 

[Deleted member 138290]

Right..... haven’t drained the torque converter as wasn’t sure what covers it up and didn’t want to strip anything else off the car on my drive.... how much does it hold ? I did measure roughly what came out BUT obviously didn’t drain TC, Put new rad on so that would have been totally empty.... SO, must be a litre or so too much that’s coming out ?

 

[Petrol Pete]

You may or may not have a drain plug on the TC, pop the little black plastic/rubber cover off the bottom of the bell housing and spin the TC around you will soon see if you have a drain plug or not.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Checked the level with the dipstick?

 

[Deleted member 138290]

2 black rubber covers, I assume drain plug behind but, they won’t budge so left them..... checked with dipstick as I bought one ages ago (very lucky right now) was right at top of the measure when I pulled it out so drained the whole sump and started again. Now just under the 80c bar, will that be enough ? This is why I don’t enjoy/ like working on this car anyone more.... too technical for me..... old Skool cars I never went wrong as nothing like as complicated and I’m self taught so.....

 

[Deleted member 138290]

Ok so got car bk on the road couple days ago after realising that I had actually put too much fluid in system ! Anyway been to work twice and after around 4 miles the gears are starting to slip, w/s stopped functioning along with semi auto (nothing from 1-D when I try to select) ?? Not sure what I’ve done ?? The 1st time this happened I had to switch the TC off and managed to get home ! I did have to put the OLD conductor plate bk on valve body as the thread where the pilot bush goes broke on me and I darnt have left it in and potentially have a look TCM plug tho it does have a plastic lock ! Anyway I’m also wondering if you can tighten the solenoids down too tight and maybe cause them not function properly ?? Also left the new solenoids in with the OLD C plate...... hope someone has experienced this and can help ?!?!!?

 

[Deleted member 138290]

Forgot to mention, the 1st time this issue triggered EML and was solenoid valve fault.... and I’ve noticed that once I’m stationary when selecting R or D it goes in gear but shunts into either gear rather than smooth as normal ?? If I can think of anything else I’ve forgot I will post, thanks !

 

[Deleted member 138290]

According to the great internet it’s either valve body and/ or C plate..... well seeing as I felt happier putting the old C plate bk but with new solenoids as said above the thread broke on the new C plate where the new pilot bush goes and so the 7mm bolt wouldn’t screw down so didn’t dare use new plate so I’m hoping it’s a simple case of old plate not able to give new solenoids enough voltage.... ??

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Are you 100% sure the level is correct?

I'd strip it all back down, remove the valve body, strip and clean this.
Check all the solenoids, replace the Torque Convertor lock one with the latest improved one.
Fit a new (genuine or Febi) Conductor Plate and Pilot Bush, new filter, then carefully refill to correct level.

 

[merc85]

Tbh if it’s slipping I wouldn’t be surprised if you need a new box Or Tc , fingers crossed though. A torque wrench would be a good investment.

 

[Deleted member 138290]

Only seems to start slipping after a few miles but I have noticed gear change from cold is now at approx 2-2500 rpms and it was quite normal before I did the whole job ! Haven’t touched the TC fluid or even looked to see if it can be drained but I’m leaving that for my mechanic when he re opens in 2 weeks ! Wish I had just left it but after being warned left contaminated could lead to gr box failure I paniced ! And now I’m worse off ever currently as had no slipping/ lack of gears etc ! OMG. I’ve purchased another febi plate and will stripped it all again next week when it arrives n hope it cures it

 

[Deleted member 138290]

I will double check the fluid level again tomorrow tho I’ve got to drive 8 miles home 1st as obv my dipstick is in my garage

 

[Deleted member 138290]

As above I’ve ordered another new (febi) c plate but the solenoids are brand new (again oem stuff) just the old c plate I Had to put bk in and as for fluid level I will check that tomorrow am after work when I’ve had some sleep and it’s daylight lol. Funnily enough after couple days running the coolant level light came up on the dash as I drive into the work car park at 1820 tonight..... so both need atleast a check up

 

[Deleted member 138290]

So the other new conductor plate came today, just fitted it and still no s/w mode and no semi auto so looks like the valve body is now at fault.... EML did come up earlier p2107 “component y3/6y1 modulating press control solenoid valve has failed”..... I’m assuming it’s a complete valve body replacement I’m in need of now ??