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Turbo Intake hose on the OM642 Engine

wu56Shoozz

MB Enthusiast
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Jun 17, 2016
Messages
1,982
Location
You'll need a passport to get over the Wall..
Car
MB Vito 111CDi / W203 C Class Saloon 320CDi Avantgarde
The car is a W203 C Class 320CDi (2006)

So yesterday I went to replace the seals on the turbo intake hose. (By the looks of things mine had not been changed for a long time.) So upon re installing the ducting the connection just all broke up like pencil lead.. very brittle indeed.:doh:

My questions are:

1/ Is there a set way on installing the ducting so as not to damage the connector to the turbo?

2/I've read that changing the seals only, can make things worse instead of better regarding oil leaks - can someone explain why, as I have a fear that mine will do this on reinstall..

3/ Is there a way to remove the existing MAF sensors to install on the replacement hose without damaging them??

I have a plan to heat the connector end in boiling water as to expand it and possibly soften it a little then install.. but its just a theory.. any help much appreciated.. :thumb:
 
They go brittle after time. Mines not leaked since I did it plus the little one next to it. I used hand soap inside the seal and left the jubilee clip on so not to break the ducting. Mine had very slight cracks on the hole where the four slots are to aid fitting but I used araldite to prevent more cracking. When you buy the new duct it comes with the maf's iirc that's why there expensive.
 
In regards to the MAF sensors. If it is the V6 diesel, which I believe in 2006 it is then you're out of luck. It is the whole Y piece at a cost of close to £300
 
^ Yup, you're absolutely correct - but did you know you can buy one off the continent brand new for 129 Euro + 30 Euro P&P and it is a genuine part?? I'm waiting on mine now... should be here by Monday...
 
Now, whilst we're here I saw that someone has suggested an outer coating of silicone grease on the seal any reason why you would do this? :dk:
 
^ Yup, you're absolutely correct - but did you know you can buy one off the continent brand new for 129 Euro + 30 Euro P&P and it is a genuine part?? I'm waiting on mine now... should be here by Monday...

You got a link to share please.
 
Now, whilst we're here I saw that someone has suggested an outer coating of silicone grease on the seal any reason why you would do this? :dk:

I don`t know what MB use for this but in my experience if one uses anything silicon on joints with a jubilee clip the parts can slip off due to the pressure by the clip. Depends entirely how far on the connector goes on and with this turbo flange it doesn`t look that deep!
 
Ooops my bad... I think they were referring to silicone and not a grease.. like a sealer or Hylomar.. sorry..

Because the orange rubber seal is known not to be 100% effective, thus causing oil to leak onto the swirl flap motor (which is known to fail for exactly that reason).

I haven't used any sealant type of product when replacing for a new seal, but have used some soap as mentioned above, this will aid with the fitting and will dry into a watertight seal (usually).

Do you have the link of where you have got the intake pipe from, price sounds much better than any other out there.
 
Hang Fire guys on the link... its still to be delivered, from Europe. It looks the part and it states its genuine Merc Part so we'll see..

Dunno about you guys but the Europeans are panning us on parts (anything to do with Brexit):

Ordered Inner Tie Rods for my Vito £80 over here - £21 in Germany delivered next day..

Ordered Rear Springs for The C Class - £64 each over here, £21 each from Germany delivery 3 days, and they came in 2!

Ordered Springs for my Jeep - Lesjofors, £74 each over here £39 each over there..

What's going on guys... they're not counterfeit either, all in genuine package stamped etc.. just thought you should know...
 
Because the orange rubber seal is known not to be 100% effective, thus causing oil to leak onto the swirl flap motor (which is known to fail for exactly that reason).

I haven't used any sealant type of product when replacing for a new seal, but have used some soap as mentioned above, this will aid with the fitting and will dry into a watertight seal (usually).

Do you have the link of where you have got the intake pipe from, price sounds much better than any other out there.

I've got the updated seal, how easy is it to fit the hose without breaking the tubing, as its pretty tight, do you remove both airfilter boxes to manipulate it into place then reinstall OR can you do it without removing the boxes - but just more finicky...I like the idea of hand soap, by that you mean the pump action stuff and not the bar of stuff??
 
I've got the updated seal, how easy is it to fit the hose without breaking the tubing, as its pretty tight, do you remove both airfilter boxes to manipulate it into place then reinstall OR can you do it without removing the boxes - but just more finicky...I like the idea of hand soap, by that you mean the pump action stuff and not the bar of stuff??

Everything but the Y intake pipe remains in place, it is a little fiddly to fit, but you'll get there in the end.

I guess if the part is new, it shouldn't be too brittle, but cold makes plastic more brittle, so it may be worth warming the brittle section with a hair dryer prior to fitting?

In regards to the soap, I've just wet my finger and rubbed it on a bar of soap, then used the residue to put onto the new seal.
 
I did mine recently - just undo the clips holding the air filters in and pull away the plastic tubes on both sides. Loosen the circular clamp and gently twist until you can pull the whole section forward. You will need to get your hand underneath on the left side to remove the tube with the red seal.

You do not have to remove the whole v tube, I tried, but could not disconnect one electrical connector.

I placed the new filter on the turbo inlet, after cleaning any residue, and then refitted. I did not use any soap as none was handy. When refitting, just twist and push gently and do not overtighten clamp.

Replace and refit the smaller seal first.

Been around 4k now and no oily residue is visible on either seals.
 
^ Yup, you're absolutely correct - but did you know you can buy one off the continent brand new for 129 Euro + 30 Euro P&P and it is a genuine part?? I'm waiting on mine now... should be here by Monday...

Did you order this from an MB dealer???
 

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