Two bucket wash

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I'll probably get corrected but...
  1. Clean bucket that has your wash in.
  2. Dirty bucket that you rinse your sponge/microfiber cloth off in.
That way you're never putting wash that contains the rubbish you've washed-off back on the car, and it should all collect in bucket 2.

I'll be honest and say that I don't bother with this, but I do use one of those grit-guard things in my bucket.

Yep basically this is it.

I do use this method though. One bucket with car shampoo and the other with clean water.

I was never convinced when I first heard about it. Then tested it out and you realise just how dirty the rinse water gets compared to the wash water.

I wouldn’t go back to just one bucket personally.
 
Never understood the two bucket method! first dip into the suds bucket, wipe over car then dip into rinse bucket so the rinse bucket water now is dirty. Into suds bucket again, wipe and rinse in the now dirty rinse bucket, making it even dirtier? After several dips into the rinse bucket you're trying to rinse your mit in dirty water, how is that supposed to help??
 
Never understood the two bucket method! first dip into the suds bucket, wipe over car then dip into rinse bucket so the rinse bucket water now is dirty. Into suds bucket again, wipe and rinse in the now dirty rinse bucket, making it even dirtier? After several dips into the rinse bucket you're trying to rinse your mit in dirty water, how is that supposed to help??
What's the alternative? If you don't rinse then you are putting the dirt into the suds and back on the car.. Of course a new mitt each time or many more buckets would get things even cleaner but all the dirt in the rinse bucket is a good thing because otherwise that would be in the wash water..
 
Never understood the two bucket method! first dip into the suds bucket, wipe over car then dip into rinse bucket so the rinse bucket water now is dirty. Into suds bucket again, wipe and rinse in the now dirty rinse bucket, making it even dirtier? After several dips into the rinse bucket you're trying to rinse your mit in dirty water, how is that supposed to help??

The idea is to squeeze the mitt out so the dirty water is left in the rinse bucket. Obviously you have a grit guard to scrub the mitt against to remove particles embedded in it as well.

Trust me if you see how clear the remaining soapy water is compared to the water in the rinse bucket, you can see the method doing what it’s meant to. The rinse bucket will end up brown and full of bits of dirt. The each bucket won’t, well not to the same level.
 
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Not a two bucket method, but one for Alex225 & CLK320X - "THE VITO"
 
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Can some one help with the best product for removing this on the wife’s car, both sides on the bottom part of the car are like this.


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Front passenger side, it’s the yellowing.
Both sides are caked in it.

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Tar remover?
 
Tar removers are solvent-based and will also strip off whatever protection has been applied to the paintwork so they are often used to give a car a thorough clean by removing all bonded contaminants prior to claying as this reduces the possibility of marring. DO NOT let a tar remover dry out as it has the power to stain the surface. Never a problem in winter but you need to be aware of this in the current heatwave. Have a look at Autofinesse ObliTARate:

Auto Finesse ObliTARate | Spirit-Based Tar & Glue Remover

Alternatively, Autosmart's Tardis is also highly regarded.
 
This contamination is a mixture of tar and embedded particles on and in the paint. As said a good quality tar remover, Tardis is my preferred solution and then use a fallout remover such as Bilt and Hamber Auto Wheel cleaner, it possesses the same ingredients as all fallout cleaners but it’s a little thicker so sticks well to vertical panels. I then use a gloved and to massage it over the effected area leave for 2-5 mins weather depending then I use a clay bar to get the last few particles out of the paint clear coat. The auto wheel fallout remover then act as the detailing lubricant for the clay bar and cleans the clay bar as you use it - win, win! :)
 
Don’t bother with the two bucket method, get yourself down to the local Eastern European swirl wash emporium
Tip them heavy ,for their speciality , giving your black car a thorough detailing with a green oven pad .
Happy Days :cool:
 
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Don’t bother with the two bucket method, get yourself down to the local Eastern European swirl wash emporium
Tip them heavy ,for their speciality , giving your black car a thorough detailing with a green oven pad .
Happy Days :cool:

I'm having physio for a knee injury at the moment ... there's a 'hand wash' crowd operating from little trolleys in the car park (which is shared with a David Lloyd health club) who are working flat out on high-end cars every time I go there. Black SUVs mostly, Porsche / Bentley / Range Rover / etc.
 
Never understood the two bucket method! first dip into the suds bucket, wipe over car then dip into rinse bucket so the rinse bucket water now is dirty. Into suds bucket again, wipe and rinse in the now dirty rinse bucket, making it even dirtier? After several dips into the rinse bucket you're trying to rinse your mit in dirty water, how is that supposed to help??
You should come and see my 2 buckets after my usual washes, then you will understand the 2 bucket method.. my 2nd bucket(rinse) looks near enough the same as my first bucket(wash).. but then again I do use a pre wash first-rinse-snow foam-rinse then shampoo method..;)
 
The idea is to squeeze the mitt out so the dirty water is left in the rinse bucket. Obviously you have a grit guard to scrub the mitt against to remove particles embedded in it as well.

Trust me if you see how clear the remaining soapy water is compared to the water in the rinse bucket, you can see the method doing what it’s meant to. The rinse bucket will end up brown and full of bits of dirt. The each bucket won’t, well not to the same level.
I perform the “double squeeze”: soapy mitt to wash panel, squeeze mitt over ground, dunk mitt in rinse bucket, squeeze again over ground, then back into soap bucket to recharge. Most of the muck ends up on my drive and not in either bucket, and definitely not on the car.
 
I perform the “double squeeze”: soapy mitt to wash panel, squeeze mitt over ground, dunk mitt in rinse bucket, squeeze again over ground, then back into soap bucket to recharge. Most of the muck ends up on my drive and not in either bucket, and definitely not on the car.

Sorry, but I don’t agree with 'squeezing the mitt over the ground' before dunking/rinsing in the rinse bucket, as this tends to 'fix' bits of grit etc in the mitt, which are then less likely to be rinsed out. The reason for the rinse bucket is to get rid of the grot, dirt and dirty water from the mitt.

You can empty the rinse bucket on your drive afterwards, if that’s where you want the muck to be......joking, of course.(but see my sig)
 
I still don't see how rinsing a dirty mitt in a dirty bucket cleans it? If you replaced the water in the rinse bucket every time you used it I could understand, but to continue using a dirty bucket of water doesn't make sense.
 

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