URGENT! W124 suspension collapse

[tpv01]

I was pulling into a space at the supermarket on Friday on left full lock at low speed. All of a sudden there was a horrible sound and I got out to see that the suspension had competely come away from the left wheel. The tie rod was still in place but the lower arm had completely come away at the ball joint boot.

There has been some creaking for a while when turning and there was alot of corrosion deposit where the failure had taken place so this is where it had finally given up.

I now need some advice of what parts I need to replace and where I can get them from?

 

[Will]

Sounds like a classic failed ball joint in the lower suspension arm.

Very cheap to buy (about £15 from MB), but fitting is a little tricky as they need to be pressed in.

You can take the arm off and do them on a regular hydraulic press or there is a tool that allows removal with the arm in situ.

You need to also check that no other parts have become damaged as a result of the collapse.

I'd do the ball joint on the other side as well for safety and peace of mind

Will

 

[Ade B]

Sounds like a classic failed ball joint in the lower suspension arm.

Very cheap to buy (about £15 from MB), but fitting is a little tricky as they need to be pressed in.

You can take the arm off and do them on a regular hydraulic press or there is a tool that allows removal with the arm in situ.

You need to also check that no other parts have become damaged as a result of the collapse.

I'd do the ball joint on the other side as well for safety and peace of mind

Will

Unless its the sports chassis option! In which case its a bit more fiddly.

There is plenty on this site about either option. Hope you sort it soon.

Ade

 

[tpv01]

thanks. It is not the sportline. It is a OM606 diesel multivalve E300.

I am having trouble finding similar things. What should I be searching for?

The car has been recovered back to my home so I cant take it to a garage to be fixed and I dont have access to a press. Would I be better replacing the whole lower arm? This would be a pricey part from MB but maybe if I a second hand part or how much would they be from ECP/GSF?

 

[Will]

Probably best to just take the lower arm off and have a new joint pressed in by any local garage that has a hydraulic press (most places should do).

Joint is about £15, might as well use a new pinch bolt (quid or two).

If you're keen you could change the bushes in the arm at the same time, also needs a hydraulic press and a little bit tricky.

You might want to mark the washers for the bolts on the lower arms as they are adjustable for alignment.

You can remove the joint with some other methods using brute force (big hammer etc), but I'd be tempted to do it properly.

There's a video on a link I posted a few months ago that shows how frustratingly easy it is to do with the correct tool!

Will

 

[Will]

Here's the video I mentioned.

KLANN Spezial-Werkzeugbau GmbH - Special Automotive Tools

Easy eh?! (with the right tools )

Will

 

[tpv01]

that is an amazing video!

looking at it is exactly my problem but the balljoint is still there is it possible that it has somehow just jumped out of the hole or the bolt he undoes to release it after compressing the spring has gone missing?

How does the failure like mine normally occur?

replacing the ball joint does look easy with the press. I think I will have to find a garage to do it for me.

 

[Will]

Normally they snap due to corrosion/wear I believe.

I was considering buying that tool so that I could replace mine and then hire it out to other members for a modest fee (it's an expensive tool to buy), but in the end I found a local garage that had the correct tool and they did it for me for a price that I couldn't argue with.

You'll probably save about £200 if you can remove/refit the wishbones yourself.

Might be easiest to find a good local garage if not, or if you get a reasonable quote.

Will

 

[tpv01]

thinking about it....how do i get it to a garage if it is in bits??? I could get it recovered again but that is a hassle and it was difficult enough getting it on the flat bed the first time without damaging it further. I could take the lower arm off and take that to the garage but would need a spring compressor and to undo the lower arm bolts which look nasty to say the least then would have to be realigned.

So maybe i should just buy a press and do it myself?? I wont need the fancy press with the air connection. where do i get these from and how much do they cost?

is there enough clearance to push them out with ball joint splitters??

 

[Number_Cruncher]

Here's how I do them. It will be easier to follow my post if you have a new ball joint to look at - but I'll try to make my description clear.

Under the arm, there's a rolled section of metal which restrains the sheet metal lower cover of the ball joint. Hacksaw about half of the rolled section away, and pull the sheet metal cover out of the gap.

You'll then be able to take the broken ball and liner out of the shell of the old ball joint.

Then, using the hacksaw again, cut into the under side of the shell of the ball joint - go as close to cutting into the wishbone as you dare, without damaging the wishbone.

Then, take your hacksaw apart, and re-asseble it with the blade passing through the hole in the ball joint shell. Lining up with the cut in the underside, cut through the shell - again, taking care not to damage the wishbone.

When you get close to breaking through, the ball joint shell will collapse, and grip the hacksaw blade.

At this point, the shell of the ball joint will be able to be knocked out with one blow of the hammer.

Using a decent 2 legged puller (or even better a bearing puller*) and socket (50mm or so), pull the new ball joint in. Take care to align the pip in the new ball joint with the pip in the underside of the wishbone - as you'll have seen on the old ball joint, the upper hole isn't circular.

* as an example, see Ebay item 160333459386

As well as the ball joint, I would use a new bolt and nut - they aren't expensive, and are highly loaded.

The moral is that as soon as you hear a squeaking ball joint, fit a new one.

In your case, I would also do the other side now, as a matter of course.

 

[BlackC55]

Where do you live? Maybe we could recommend a specialist near you?

 

[tpv01]

that is excellent. could i ask a massive favour and ask you to take some pictures to go along with your description with annotations. I think I am 90% there but want to be sure before i go at it with a hacksaw.

 

[tpv01]

Where do you live? Maybe we could recommend a specialist near you?

w.wales - pembrokeshire

 

[Number_Cruncher]

that is excellent. could i ask a massive favour and ask you to take some pictures to go along with your description with annotations. I think I am 90% there but want to be sure before i go at it with a hacksaw.

Sorry, I don't have any piccies.

However, once you have a new ball joint in your hand, you'll soon see how the ball joint is constructed. As long as you only hacksaw into the old ball joint's shell, and not the wishbone itself, you won't do any damage.

 

[tpv01]

one last thing. what exactly are the ball joints called so i know what to ask for at MB? even better if there was an exact part no.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

Êàòàëîã

Items 62, 65, & 68 are what you need.

 

[tpv01]

Here's how I do them. It will be easier to follow my post if you have a new ball joint to look at - but I'll try to make my description clear.

Under the arm, there's a rolled section of metal which restrains the sheet metal lower cover of the ball joint. Hacksaw about half of the rolled section away, and pull the sheet metal cover out of the gap.

You'll then be able to take the broken ball and liner out of the shell of the old ball joint.

Then, using the hacksaw again, cut into the under side of the shell of the ball joint - go as close to cutting into the wishbone as you dare, without damaging the wishbone.

Then, take your hacksaw apart, and re-asseble it with the blade passing through the hole in the ball joint shell. Lining up with the cut in the underside, cut through the shell - again, taking care not to damage the wishbone.

When you get close to breaking through, the ball joint shell will collapse, and grip the hacksaw blade.

At this point, the shell of the ball joint will be able to be knocked out with one blow of the hammer.

Using a decent 2 legged puller (or even better a bearing puller*) and socket (50mm or so), pull the new ball joint in. Take care to align the pip in the new ball joint with the pip in the underside of the wishbone - as you'll have seen on the old ball joint, the upper hole isn't circular.

* as an example, see Ebay item 160333459386

As well as the ball joint, I would use a new bolt and nut - they aren't expensive, and are highly loaded.

The moral is that as soon as you hear a squeaking ball joint, fit a new one.

In your case, I would also do the other side now, as a matter of course.

for the bearing puller I was hoping to do this job this weekend (pick up the parts tomorrow - thanks for the help on part no.s) but if i get this one from ebay it may not be delivered in time. Could i get one from anywhere else which would do the job and wouldnt be badly expensive? for example do halfords do a decent one?

 

[bolide]

They're called balljoints. They are £13 each from MB. I wouldn't even dream of doing them myself

I'd have the car recovered to your local indie and get them to do it. It won't cost a fortune to do - maybe 1 hour a side max. Do both sides. They don't need to remove the wishbones

My rule with balljoints is that they will need replacing at 175k or 14 years, whichever comes sooner

If you have an E300 Diesel I have news for you - your engine mounts are both knackered. I haven't seen one in two years that didn't need them replacing

While the car is up in the air replace the front ARB Bushes as well - £20 well spent

Nick Froome
*****************

 

[Bill_33]

Hi Nick

my car is a W124 E280 Estate - 1996 and almost 160,000 miles
Should I be thinking about replacing the ARB Bushes and Ball joints

The steering damper, bushes and a repair to the steering idler, (Indies words), was done at 145,000 miles

How long do the front shocks last?.......I get a "rumbling" from the near side front shock over rough road surfaces

Anything else that I should look to replace

Cheers

 

[bolide]

Hi Nick

my car is a W124 E280 Estate - 1996 and almost 160,000 miles
Should I be thinking about replacing the ARB Bushes and Ball joints

Yes

The steering damper, bushes and a repair to the steering idler, (Indies words), was done at 145,000 miles

How long do the front shocks last?.......I get a "rumbling" from the near side front shock over rough road surfaces

Anything else that I should look to replace

Cheers

Shocks seem to last forever. They don't, obviously, but I think the balljoints, front ARB bushes, engine mounts, front prop doughnut, diff input seal and rear subframe leading bushes should be checked first, in that order

Some of the newer MOT brake testers give a dynamic readout of wheel damping. That would give you a good indicator of the state of the shocks

The rear spheres are generally good for 190k. I've never replaced a set of front shocks

One of the best upgrades is a 4-wheel alignment and a set of new tyres. Preferably Continental Premium Contact IIs

Nick Froome
*****************