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URGENT! W124 suspension collapse

>>Could i get one from anywhere else which would do the job

The problem with most small flimsy 2 legged pullers is that the legs tend to splay out and come off the wishbone. The ball joint is very tight as you press it in. You *can* use a 2 leg puller, but, it's much easier with a bearing puller. The advantage of using a bearing type puller is there are no legs to come apart under load.
 
Some of the newer MOT brake testers give a dynamic readout of wheel damping. That would give you a good indicator of the state of the shocks
Not a moment too soon in my opinion, damper tests should have been mandatory years ago.
The rear spheres are generally good for 190k. I've never replaced a set of front shocks

Doesn't mean they aren't shot though, but one has an expectation of a nice floaty ride so isn't worried when they get that.

I think 100k+ is about right for dampers and springs about another 30k. It makes a surprising difference to overall feel and stability.
 
Yes



Shocks seem to last forever. They don't, obviously, but I think the balljoints, front ARB bushes, engine mounts, front prop doughnut, diff input seal and rear subframe leading bushes should be checked first, in that order

Some of the newer MOT brake testers give a dynamic readout of wheel damping. That would give you a good indicator of the state of the shocks

The rear spheres are generally good for 190k. I've never replaced a set of front shocks

One of the best upgrades is a 4-wheel alignment and a set of new tyres. Preferably Continental Premium Contact IIs

Nick Froome
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Thanks Nick, that is really helpful........the tyres are new....Goodyear Eagle NCT.......but I am on the look out for a good set of 15"" Alloys, the ones I have have the usual cosmetic problems, so went I change I will try the Contis.
 
hi

i've been quoted £190 to have 1 ball joint replaced.

do you reckon this is a reasonable price? this is a merc dealer by the way

i'm having problems getting a small garage to do this as many appear to think the creaking is acceptable and i should leave it until it gets worse, which worries me about how much they know about working on the car.....

cheers

derek
 
I am attempting to replacing them myself as recoverying to a garage is not really an option.

I tried releasing the pinch bolts last night and they are corroded in hard. There is no chance they are coming out; soaking, heat, long lever, whatever. So i am going to hacksaw them off. Would this be ok? I have got replacements ordered from MB.
 
I am attempting to replacing them myself as recoverying to a garage is not really an option.

I tried releasing the pinch bolts last night and they are corroded in hard. There is no chance they are coming out; soaking, heat, long lever, whatever. So i am going to hacksaw them off. Would this be ok? I have got replacements ordered from MB.

the job looks doable from the video (picture says 1000 words etc) and Number_Cruncher's info.

however i'm so busy £200 is a lot since the part is only about £30 but it makes the problem go away. at the moment i'm driving the car with it creaking like mad and worry your suspension collapse is just around the corner for me too.

i think it will be fine to cut off the bolt assuming you've removed the spring already.... As number cruncher says a new bolt is probably well worth using anyway.
 
Yes, the pinch bolts are very tight - but, if you can't budge it, you should be able to hacksaw down the nut to free it.

Don't be fooled by the video - a well rehearsed mechanic with top quality tools working on a car which had already had the job done once will always make the work appear simple. (note, he began with a newish ball joint in place and nut/bolt and clean spring!)

It's not an easy job, and don't underestimate the importance of containing the spring (unless you have a nice Klann compressor in your toolbox! ;))
 
i've been quoted £190 to have 1 ball joint replaced

That could be two hours at £75 / hour plus a balljoint plus VAT. Why not find a good indie and have both replaced for the same amount?

The garages that do these all the time don't make a big fuss about it. I've had six done in the last two weeks!

Nick Froome
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I agree - £200 sounds quite expensive for one side.

I was getting quotes of around £200+VAT labour from MB specialists/indi garages in my area for fitting the ball joints on both sides.

In the end, I found a good local garage that had access to the correct tool (the Klann press that is shown in the video link I posted) and they changed both sides for me for less than half of this amount :)

I just had an intermittent creak from one side also - the one that was creaking virtually collapsed into a pile of rust when it was pressed out.

Steering feels smoother and lighter as a result - I don't think this is just psychological either.

Will
 
hi

i've been quoted £190 to have 1 ball joint replaced.

do you reckon this is a reasonable price? this is a merc dealer by the way

i'm having problems getting a small garage to do this as many appear to think the creaking is acceptable and i should leave it until it gets worse, which worries me about how much they know about working on the car.....

cheers

derek

£200 sounds dear but I would be looking to get the job done sooner rather than later as the design of the W124 suspension means the joint will eventually fail with disastrous consequences, due to the ball joint acting under tension instead of compression.
On a W210 the joint is under compression so can't come apart.
 
the dealer called back with an accurate price of £160 fitted for 1 side. He said he would do both sides for £280 i think. i decided to just do the one that is creaking. main reason for going here is because there isnt a proper specialist that is convieniently close to me - and the other garages i've approached seem to think its fine for it to creak. it may be expensive but atleast it will be done - as i've got the R107 in my garage at the moment on axle stands i cant really consider doing it myself without a lot of additional hassle.
 
It's definately not OK for the ball joints to creak. A sign that something is wrong.

They're literally £13 each. If you're not aware of when they were changed you really should be doing the pair.

Sounds steep for a local garage (£160 or both for £280?). What's their hourly labour rate? Works out about £250 just for the labour (in Scotland). I'm guessing that this place isn't aware that they can be done with the arms in situ.

Proper MB specialists in London and the South are cheaper than that.

For £160 or £280 for the pair, and bearing in mind IIRC your W124 is quite high mileage I think I'd rather fit entire new wishbones! Or shop around?

Will

Edit to add - just read your post on the last page - I see that this price is from a MB main dealer - that explains the (expensive) labour prices!

I'd shop around for an indi garage and get both done for the same amount (or less) instead.

Will
 
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i will try to cut down the gap to cut through the middle of the bolt but it looks sealed up with some kind of solid gunk. If i cant get at it there i will have to attack head and try and push it through but it aint gonna be pretty!!

do you know if the same problem is likely on a W201 as i have one of those too of a similar age.
 
Yep - fairly common issue on both.

It's probably the same part number for the ball joint on both vehicles too.

Will
 
i'm just going to pay the Dealer this time. its more than i could get it done elsewehere but its been creaking for a while now so quite urgent and i need to know its been done right etc. i'd still like to give it a go myself (and might do the other side myself) once the SL is out of my garage. i'd like to buy a spring compressor and tools to push bushes and stuff as i think they are useful to have so can tackle the other side at the same time.
 
balljoint replaced and now creak is gone!!!

wallet lighter but main thing is its done. Other side apparently has been replaced fairly recently and is in great condition.
 
The reason why I asked is the "notch" on the BJ has to be in the right place.
 
how much did it set you back silversaloon?

managed to get the pinch bolt off eventually and have all the parts now. Just forcing out the BJ and fitting in the new one to go!!!

PS I have been looking for presses on the internet to see if i can find one similar to the one in the video however everyone i have seen is stand mounted. If most garages have this type i guess it would mean they would have to remove the lower arm to get at the BJ? If it is all ceased up and requiring correct adjustment i can see that increasing the cost a bit
 

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