w123 230E - water pump pulley removal - HELP!

[CharlesJones]

Hi everyone,

I have a 1982 230E which needs a new water pump, but I can't for the life of me get the water pump pulley off. I have removed the fan and what you see in the photos is what I am left with. It says in the workshop manual that the pulley should now just pull off by hand, leaving the magnet body of the electro-magnetic clutch mechanism behind. However I can't budge it, despite hitting it with a rubber mallet and tugging it with all my might. I even tried levering it off with the handle of a carefully positioned wrench, but all I succeeded in doing was bend the rim of the pulley so I stopped that.

It says in the workshop manual that if the pulley can not be removed by hand I should remove the central "assembly bolt" and replace it with a longer bolt which can then be tightened to force the pulley off against the magnetic body. I have tried this, but I can't get the assembly bolt out - its like its welded in! I can't get a socket very far over the hex part of the bolt so I have only succeeded in rounding it. Then I tried gripping it tightly with mole grips but and that time I just damaged the thread.

Do any of you have any other ideas of anything else I might try? What about applying heat with a blow torch? If so, which bit should I heat? Any tips about that?

Also, it says in the manual that I should remove the radiator to get better access. I haven't done this since I was worried about disconnecting the pipes to the oil cooler for the automatic transmission. However, if this will genuinely help to get the blasted pulley off then I just have to do this I guess. Does anyone know if removing the radiator would genuinely help get purchase on the pulley? I only want to do this as a last resort.

Many thanks for your help. I have attached some pictures of the pulley so as to illustrate which variety it is. This is driving me mad - I've spent three days of hammering, tugging and pulling at it, and a lot of staring at it, but it just won't budge! Any advice or tips would be VERY gratefully received!

Best regards,
Charles

 

[Sp!ke]

Is it a normal right handed thread or could it be reverse threaded?

 

[aircondoc]

I'd be tempted to:-

1. Remove radiator as workshop manual says (you wont lose much transmission oil as engine is stopped, just drips)
2. protect thread of assembly bolt with a nut
3. Apply percussive persuasion (hammer it!!!)
4. attempt bolt removal.

If that doesn't work, cut the thread off and get a socket on properly and try that.

I had similar fun with my 2.6 last year, it went in the end, even if i did have to take virtually the front of the car off!!

 

[grober]

A deep socket should get a good grip on that hex- Try to get one that drives on the flats rather than the angles of the hex e.g.

 

[CharlesJones]

Thanks very much guys - your suggestions have given me a lot of encouragement and hope, with some great ideas which I will try.

Sp!ke - yeah, I wondered about whether it could be a reverse thread, but it doesn't mention it in the manual so I guess its a normal thread. I hope so anyway - I'd hate think of me twisting it with all my might in the wrong direction!

Aircondoc - that's very useful to know - thanks for the advice. It says in the manual that I should clamp the oil hoses which is one thing which worried me - with hoses that age I was concerned they might split so I'd have to change those too (that often happens when I work on cars - I end up having to renew more and more stuff whilst a balls things up!) but if they're just going to drip I think I will just stuff a paper towel in each one. That's a great idea to cut the thread off the assembly bolt too - I hadn't thought of that, so if I still can't pull the pulley off with the radiator out of the way I think I will fire up the angle grinder.

Graeme - I never knew sockets like that existed! Do you know what this type which drives the flats of the hex are called, and where I can find them?

Thanks again guys - this really has given me a lot of encouragement. Tonight I go ahead and whip the radiator off.

Best regards,
Charles.

 

[grober]

They are known as six point surface drive deep sockets. DIFFLOCK.com - Socket Sets

Halfords sometimes stock them--- often as the impact type- drawback with the impact type is that they usually have thicker walls which can restrict access. Otherwise you need to visit a specialist tool warehouse. Expect to pay quite a bit for even a small high quality set-- but worth it.