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W123 starter motor removal

andy_k

MB Enthusiast
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Apr 23, 2003
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Location
Bexhill, East sussex
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Alfa GTV 3.0
interesting one here, has anyone got a recommended method for removing the starter motor from a W123 280E?

The manual is loads of help so please don't quote that, as it tells you to undo the bolts (the top one being an allen bolt) then withdraw the starter.

Now, here's the fun bit.................short of removing the engine mounts and dropping the engine a couple of inches how do you get the allen key on the top bolt with the engine in place?

1, access from below is blocked completely

2, access from above is severely limited as the exhaust manifold, auto fluid filler tube and a couple of other solid metal pipes running across the bulkhead are in the way

3, can't get a socket allen key on there as it's too close to the bulkhead to use even a 1/4" drive wrench

I hate to admit it but I'm stuck after spending 2 hours fabricating various tools in order to change a starter motor :)

Andy
 
Andy, question.

Is the exhaust manifold on the starter motor side?

Oh and BTW you have a voice mail on your mobi
 
Last edited:
If you use an extension bar for the socket, can you get under the manifold from the front of the engine bay, alternatively a universal joint or wabble bar may get in.
 
Dieselman said:
If you use an extension bar for the socket, can you get under the manifold from the front of the engine bay, alternatively a universal joint or wabble bar may get in.

In true pantomime style..................

Oh no you can't !!!

the top bolt on the starter has to go out towards the bulkhead - there's no nut on it as it screws directly into the starter body.

after careful thought it looks like we need a tool like the one below
 

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What about a u/j and extension from beside the bellhousing from under the car?
 
the problem is the gap between the allen bolt and the bulkhead - there's no direct way to get at the allen bolt head from below (or at least none that we could see).

Dropping the engine down an inch or two by slackening the engine mounts is another option but I think the bendy allen key is the answer

Andy
 
thanks - I'll pass that one on, but I think we'd still need to drop the engine to get that tool in place it's just about the most inaccessible/innapropriate bolt I've ever seen and trust me I've worked on some stupid engines :)

Andy
 

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