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W124 E300 Diesel - Removing Inlet Manifold

TonyVianoAmbiente

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2007
Messages
626
Location
Buckinghamshire
Car
W124 E300 Diesel 1995
I need to remove the inlet manifold to get at the leaking fuel pipes on my E300 Diesel. I'm hoping to tackle this job tomorrow and would appreciate any advice or suggestions as to how to make it go as smoothly as possible. I have a complete set of gaskets and seals from the local MB dealer.

I am particularly concerned about removing the Torx head bolts that secure the inlet manifold to the cylinder head, but would be pleased to hear about any other possible pitfalls.
 
Have the engine nice and warm, it helps the aluminium to release it's grip on the steel bolts.
The job is straightforward.

You don't really need to replace the main gasket if you clean it off properly.
 
The torx bolts will be fine - they're not tight. My only caveat is to make sure that nothing solid can find its way into the inlet tracts - if anything does it'll ruin your weekend!

Oh yes - the rubber hose to the lower butterfly valve has a tendency to drop off as you put the crosspipe back on so make sure it's in place. The symptom is very harsh gearshifts

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
I agree about the torx bolts usually not being a problem. The manifold gasket isn't a hideously expensive part - I tend to change it every time the manifold's off, but, I can see that it's one of those gaskets that you probably could get away with.

While the manifold is off, you might also consider;

a) replace any broken high pressure pipe clamps
b) replace the rubber crankcase breather push in connectors - these typically become brittle, and break as you remove them to take the manifold off [you must remove at least one of them!]
c) check and note down the glow plug resistances for later reference (assuming they are all working OK now!)
d) lubricate the accelerator linkage pivot on the pump, with a drop or two of ATF.
e) check all of the vacuum connections
f) check the resonance flaps are free to move, and that their vacuum actuators work - i.e., make sure their diaphragms are not split.
g) plug the vacuum pipes, check to make sure nothing's loose near the inlet ports, and briefly run the engine. This will allow you to see if the inlet valves are seating well. My engine has had, and a few others that I've heard about and discussed on various fora have had problem with inlet valve seat recession which causes compression loss, and rough running - especially when cold. If there's a problem you'll see chuffs of exhaust smoke coming out of the inlet ports!

Points a to g are all quick, easy, cheap, and IMO well worth doing while you're there.

For points a and b, unless this area has been worked on quite recently, you *will* need some new parts, and so, it's worth ordering them in advance.
 
I agree about the torx bolts usually not being a problem. The manifold gasket isn't a hideously expensive part - I tend to change it every time the manifold's off, but, I can see that it's one of those gaskets that you probably could get away with.

While the manifold is off, you might also consider;

a) replace any broken high pressure pipe clamps
b) replace the rubber crankcase breather push in connectors - these typically become brittle, and break as you remove them to take the manifold off [you must remove at least one of them!]
c) check and note down the glow plug resistances for later reference (assuming they are all working OK now!)
d) lubricate the accelerator linkage pivot on the pump, with a drop or two of ATF.
e) check all of the vacuum connections
f) check the resonance flaps are free to move, and that their vacuum actuators work - i.e., make sure their diaphragms are not split.
g) plug the vacuum pipes, check to make sure nothing's loose near the inlet ports, and briefly run the engine. This will allow you to see if the inlet valves are seating well. My engine has had, and a few others that I've heard about and discussed on various fora have had problem with inlet valve seat recession which causes compression loss, and rough running - especially when cold. If there's a problem you'll see chuffs of exhaust smoke coming out of the inlet ports!

Points a to g are all quick, easy, cheap, and IMO well worth doing while you're there.

For points a and b, unless this area has been worked on quite recently, you *will* need some new parts, and so, it's worth ordering them in advance.


Thanks, NumberCruncher, for such a detailed list. My abilities are very basic and some of these tasks are probably a little more advanced than I am capable of. Unfortunately, I feel I have now found my limitations.

I think I will put off the job for a few days and order the additional parts you mentioned, and try to work out how to do the other tasks.

Thanks again,

Tony
 
Yes those darned crankcase breather elbows & T-pieces will fall apart in your hands

Check the leakoff hoses from the injectors to make sure they're not weeping

You can check the glowplugs from the connector on the relay

All Multivalves with a few miles will chuff a bit of exhaust gas pressure into the inlet manifold - it goes with the territory. 24 valves mean 24 opportunities to lose compression, unfortunately

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
Thanks Tony,

One other item which I had forgotten is the injector leak off pipes - once you've got the cross-over inlet manifold pipe off, they're just underneath the black plastic cover. These leak off pipes become brittle and frequently leak fuel.

--------------------

for items a and b

The plastic clips for the high pressure diesel pipes are really fragile when they have aged a bit - to be on the safe side, I would order all of the clips that are "W" shaped, I think there are about half a dozen of them. It's better to make sure that the high pressure pipes are well clamped, because they are susceptible to fatigue failure if they're left to "wang" about.

There is one rubber crankcase ventialtion rubber bung that you have to remove to get to the accelerator linkage bracket, and although when they new they are quite supple, they become brittle, and break as soon as you try to pull them out. If you have 2 in hand, you should be OK.

---------------------

Although it's a daunting list, it's all easy stuff really! I hope it goes well!
 
>> All Multivalves with a few miles will chuff a bit of exhaust gas pressure into the inlet manifold - it goes with the territory.

Mine was chuffing smoke more like something Fred Dibnah would have driven! :eek:

I think that like 603s, because 606s have hydraulic lifters people think that valves can be completely forgotten on these engines, I think that quite a few of these engines have this problem, but, people don't pick up on it because they are generally well refined engines.

With the inlet manifolds on, you couldn't hear a thing, but when I got the head off, the recession was really serious, both the valves and seats of the rearmost cylinders were very badly worn.

One other point which made me suspicious was when I was buying the car, No 6 was making a bit more noise than the others when I listened with the stethoscope. Like a real fool, I thought it was just the injector that was spraying poorly, rather than a compression problem.
 
If the chuffing isn't confirmed to be the valves and it's blowing via the breather, give the engine a long flush with flushing oil. It does help reseat the rings.
 
Sorry, perhaps I haven't been sufficiently clear. I'm talking about combustion gases leaking back through badly seated inlet valves. i.e., running the engine with the inlet manifold off, and watching the inlet ports.

I only found the problem with my engine by accident. I had changed the low pressure fuel pipe O rings, and I wanted to check they had all sealed properly before I bolted the inlet manifold back into place. I sealed the vacuum pipes up, and asked SWMBO to start the engine while I was poised with a mityvac connected to the fuel cut off actuator. I was amazed when I heard the racket, and saw the exhaust gas being forced out of No 6 inlet ports!

In my case, the valve recession was so severe on No 6 that the travel of the hydraulic follower has been used up, and so, the cam was holding the valve partly open.

On No 5, I saw that the valve seat had begun to change colour from dull grey to black blotches, which is an early sign of metallurgical failure of the valve seat - so, I changed the seats on No 5 too.

Chuffing from the exhaust, or from the oil filler is, of course, a different matter entirely.
 
Although it's a bit of a roller coaster, this thread describes a similar problem.

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=209339

I sincerely hope that the OP doesn't find this same problem when he has the inlet manifold off, but, it's not an isolated failure, and, given today's fuel prices, it won't take too many miles running on 5 1/2 cylinders instead of 6 to justify the cost of any repairs!
 
Sorry, perhaps I haven't been sufficiently clear. I'm talking about combustion gases leaking back through badly seated inlet valves. i.e., running the engine with the inlet manifold off, and watching the inlet ports.

.

You were perfectly clear, I was just posting an answer to a different scenario.

Had the hydraulic tappet adjustment definately been used up or was it stuck.?
If stuck a good flush would have probably released it, but obviously that's of no use once the valves are burnt.

I personally would flush the engine at each oil change to ensure there is no gumming taking place, especially if running on veg oil.
If the engine has a seperate oil cooler drain it after the flush to remove all the flushing oil and more debris.
 
>> Had the hydraulic tappet adjustment definately been used up or was it stuck.?

The tappets hadn't stuck in my case, the valves had sunk a long way - there wasn't much material left on the valve seats at all.
 
How did you rectify it, new seat inserts or a new head.?
It seems odd that they regressed that far..
 
New seats for the rear 2 cylinders, and 12 new inlet valves. It's been fine since, running much smoother, especially starting from cold.
 
Yes those darned crankcase breather elbows & T-pieces will fall apart in your hands
www.w124.co.uk

does anyone have the part numbers or pic from the epc on what these are? so i can order them? i need to remove the inlet manifold to replace spark plugs on the saloon.

thanks

derek
 
Teh connectors are No5 for straight connectors and No10 for elbow ones in the first link.
Just get a small selection of each. The straight one is tubing sold by the meter.

If all else fails use screenwash tube.
 

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