w124 E300d engine mounts

[tpv01]

I am not sure how relatively bad it is as i am un-used to diesels but my new w124 E300d multivalve is a little bit shaky at idle which causes a rattle somewhere in the cab.

rather than trying to work out where it is coming from i thought it might be better and better in the long term to change the engine mounts to make it smoother and, dare i say it, sound less like a diesel.

i cant see them listed in GSF catalogue but must only be about £30-£40?

Are they easy to replace without presses or engine hoist?

dont know where they are on the engine so could be in very good or very bad condition but do new mounts really help the diesel-idle-shakes? I was told 5 and 6 cyl merc diesel engines where very smooth and quite and almost unreconisable as oil burners. I must admit my E300d is quite smooth but i dont know if i am being too fussy in wanting to eliminate all the shakes.

 

[nick mercedes]

I am not sure how relatively bad it is as i am un-used to diesels but my new w124 E300d multivalve is a little bit shaky at idle which causes a rattle somewhere in the cab.

rather than trying to work out where it is coming from i thought it might be better and better in the long term to change the engine mounts to make it smoother and, dare i say it, sound less like a diesel.

i cant see them listed in GSF catalogue but must only be about £30-£40?

Are they easy to replace without presses or engine hoist?

dont know where they are on the engine so could be in very good or very bad condition but do new mounts really help the diesel-idle-shakes? I was told 5 and 6 cyl merc diesel engines where very smooth and quite and almost unreconisable as oil burners. I must admit my E300d is quite smooth but i dont know if i am being too fussy in wanting to eliminate all the shakes.

Sometimes the cheepo replica mounts can have a short service life, they're not all that expensive from MB.

 

[franey]

Give me your chassis number and I will give you a price for a pair of Febi ones

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>is a little bit shaky at idle

It sounds to me like the engine mounts are not the root cause of your problem - if the engine is running rough at tickover, that's what you should be fixing! These engines should run very smoothly indeed.

 

[tpv01]

>>is a little bit shaky at idle

It sounds to me like the engine mounts are not the root cause of your problem - if the engine is running rough at tickover, that's what you should be fixing! These engines should run very smoothly indeed.

just standard diesel rumble nothing excessive or even that noticable it is just that it makes something rattle slightly inside that annoys me. just thought it might be degraded engine mounts transmitted normal engine vibration into the car.

what could be the problem if it runs a little rough at idle (not that i believe it does)? how can i cure it?

 

[Number_Cruncher]

If you want have a look at the engine mountings, you'll need to take the undertrays off for a proper look. Check to see if the rubber is OK, and that they haven't collapsed.

If there is any problem causing rough running, you're more likely to see it when cold. How well does the engine start?

 

[SilverSaloon]

have you changed the fuel filter and pre-filter? is there any air bubbles in the clear plastic fuel lines?

 

[tpv01]

starts and cold starts are no problem although i havent owned it long enough to see how it starts on cold mornings.
not changed fuel filter or prefilter yet as waiting to move over to veg but might take the prefilter out tonight to inspect its condition pre-switchover.
cant really see if i have air bubbles in the clear lines as over the years they have stopped being clear!
Dont really think i have an idle problem just being fussy.

 

[SilverSaloon]

it will probably run smoother on veg anyway

 

[tpv01]

exactly what my wallet wanted to hear!

 

[bolide]

Just change the engine mounts and see what happens

One of the E300 Diesel mounts is different to the standard mounts. Suppliers like GSF always seem to supply generic parts for every model - Mercedes don't

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Smiley]

Apparently the engine mounts do suffer a bit more on the 300d because of the extra weight. You can see from visual inspection if they are collapsed. My 95 estate with 195k miles could do with having them replaced - but the symptoms are not a rattle - it is a very slight vibration through the steering wheel when pulling away.

Have you checked the V belt tensioner assy - that gradually got worse and worse on mine until at about 150k miles the engine sounded very lumpy and noisy on tickover.

 

[tpv01]

Have you checked the V belt tensioner assy - that gradually got worse and worse on mine until at about 150k miles the engine sounded very lumpy and noisy on tickover.

how do i check this?

dont worry guys i will be getting a Haynes today so no more 1 million annoying questions from me everyday!

 

[SilverSaloon]

how do i check this?

dont worry guys i will be getting a Haynes today so no more 1 million annoying questions from me everyday!

i'd also be interested in this - my saloon is a lot noisier than the estate and i'm pretty sure its the belt.

 

[bolide]

The top rubber/metal mount of the serpentine belt damper breaks up & it rattles. If you reach (carefully) behind the fan, push the damper towards the block and the rattle stops then that's it

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[philiggy]

The top rubber/metal mount of the serpentine belt damper breaks up & it rattles. If you reach (carefully) behind the fan, push the damper towards the block and the rattle stops then that's it

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

I replaced mine last year it makes a huge difference

Phil

 

[Uberwagon]

From memory there is a gauge which I believe is 13mm wide and if this doesn't slip between the upper and lower part of the engine mount then they are knackered.

Mine are being done as we speak and the mounts themselves (On a M119engine) aren't just blocks of rubber. They have a viscous fluid in them aswell I believe, when I get the ld ones back i'm tempted to cut them open and check.

Also, if you do the engine mounts then also do the transmission mount or you will put your prop doughnut under extra strain.

My engine mounts and transmission mount were 240 all in or thereabouts from a main dealer.

Dave!

 

[Smiley]

Sorry for late reply - the tensioner assembly for the V belt is at the top of the belt run just to the left (looking from the front of the car with the bonnet up - ie offside of the car) of the head.
If you start the car, let it idle and then open the bonnet - if you then listen for the noises and "rattles" you will be drawn to this assembly.
It is very common for these to fail from 100k ish miles and is a job really really well worth doing (as some one else has already said). If I remember there is a tensioner assy and a guide plate that it sits in - worth renewing both together.

 

[Uberwagon]

Sorry for late reply - the tensioner assembly for the V belt is at the top of the belt run just to the left (looking from the front of the car with the bonnet up - ie offside of the car) of the head.
If you start the car, let it idle and then open the bonnet - if you then listen for the noises and "rattles" you will be drawn to this assembly.
It is very common for these to fail from 100k ish miles and is a job really really well worth doing (as some one else has already said). If I remember there is a tensioner assy and a guide plate that it sits in - worth renewing both together.

Do these have a pointer on the assembly like the M119s?

Mine has 4 cast in lines and my pointer is on the 4th so I presume this to mean that the tensioner is nearly kaput.

Dave!

 

[tpv01]

Give me your chassis number and I will give you a price for a pair of Febi ones

this is the chassis number, sorry about the delay
1241312C075452