W124 Estate - boot won't open and car locks itself

[merkyworld]

Hi all, I've got a 1995 E280 W124 Estate and it has a couple of minor problems:

1) I can't open the boot: it won't open with central locking, nor will it open using the catch on the inside. I have sprayed it with WD40, given it a few scientific prods and punches but it won't budge.

2) I left it running the other day, picking someone up from the station. I was out of the car, all doors shut and it locked itself. Panic. Had to jog back home a couple of miles to fetch the spare keys.

It has an immobiliser, factory fit I think. Any pointers you can give me, greatly appreciated.

 

[bolide]

Most UK cars had an alarm fitted by the dealer. I'd look at that for the problem with it self-locking - a standard car won't do that

If the tailgate opens with the key, but not the central locking or internal release, then someone's fiddled with the lock and not replaced the linkages. If it doesn't open at all I think you'll have to climb in the back, pull or cut away the carpet panel and release it manually

Nick Froome

 

[brucemillar]

Big pointer here. My 300te does exactly the same thing as yours. I believe that this is caused by the set up on the Clifford alarm that is fitted to mine.

Car locks all doors and tailgate with keys in ignition and engine running after 15 seconds.

I have a valet key which I have now taped up under the car as I have had to break two windows previously to get into the car with the engine still running.

The tailgate on mine. You have operate the unlock button on the fob three times with a few seconds gap between each push.

If you stand at the tailgate.

1) First push of fob. The tailgate button clicks but doe not unlock.

2) Second push of fob. tailgate button goes in fully with no resistance but does not unlock.

3) Third push of fob. Tailgate button makes an audible clunk whir and you can then unlock it by pushing it in.


I have the same issue with starting the car if I do not start the engine with a few seconds of unlocking the car (I think it is the same issue as the tailgate) I have to then cycle through the same sequence of lock/unlock etc before I can start the engine again.

Keep me posted if my solution works.

I want to just remove the entire Clifford alarm but it also has an immobiliser so I am concerned that I will screw up the ignition.

 

[Dec]

Hi all, I've got a 1995 E280 W124 Estate and it has a couple of minor problems:

1) I can't open the boot: it won't open with central locking, nor will it open using the catch on the inside. I have sprayed it with WD40, given it a few scientific prods and punches but it won't budge.

2) I left it running the other day, picking someone up from the station. I was out of the car, all doors shut and it locked itself. Panic. Had to jog back home a couple of miles to fetch the spare keys.

It has an immobiliser, factory fit I think. Any pointers you can give me, greatly appreciated.

Regarding 2, depending on what alarm is fitted, the car may be set up, when the alarm was fitted, for what is called Passive Arming, 15 or 20 seconds after the key is removed from the ignition (or 15 or 20 seconds after the last door is closed… not sure which), the alarm may arm itself and lock the car… the idea is that you wouldn’t leave the engine running with the keys in the ignition, the alarm must know that you have left the car… drivers seat unoccupied/drivers door opened and shut.

What type of remote do you have and what does your alarm siren look like?

Depending on what alarm you have, there is a way of turning Passive Arming off by means of dip switches on the side of the alarm “brain”, do you know where your alarm system brain is located?


Dec

 

[bolide]

The dealer-fitted alarm was a Scorpion. They usually had a bonnet switch half-way up one side of the bonnet opening and a red whooper

Nick Froome