w124 m104 rough idle stalling and not shifting gears help

[lucian25]

Good day, my name is Lucian. This is my first post here, sadly it is of a problematic nature of my car and i seek your opinions and guidance to aid in resolving the issue.
I will start with some facts about the automobile. It is a MB 300ce coupe produced in 1990 with a five speed automatic transmission (722.5) and 300cc 24v engine (m104.980). Many people who talk to me about the car ask me in irony if i paid money for it, maybe because of the engine size and the rust holes in the rear fender, i don't think much of their stupid inquiries i like my car it's a timeless classic and the rust just makes it look more vintage.
Now on to the bad stuff, the problem I've been having. I think i should start with my last trip. The car starts slow it takes at least five seconds of cranking to get it to idle from a cold start especially in winter. All is ok it shifts as ever, gets up to operating temperature fine so far. Have to make a stop at the market for 20 minutes or so. I get back and restart it, fires right up and the problems start: rough idle, after 5 seconds it stalls, restart it again sounds like it's on it's last breath put it in D take off and it refuses to change up just sits in second gear (the start gear).
Crawling my way to the 2 lane road where everybody is breaking the speed limit and doing over 60 i cross my fingers and hope for the best, i know in my heart it won't let me down it's a Mercedes and it will get me home no matter what.. and besides i know how to "fix" it. All i have to do is turn on the rear window defogger and the heater volume knob to full blast it will magically change gears and keep it from stalling . I can even down shift it from the heater knob if i turn it from 4 to 2. At this point i feel more like a DJ than a driver. So it gets me home. After i reach my destination i don't even have to turn the key, all i have to do to shut the engine is to switch off all the electrical gadgets. Let it cool for half a day and it's back to normal, driving flawlessly until next time i restart it..
I forgot to mention that if i restart it within an interval of 5 minutes it's okay, the rough running only happens if i leave it 20-30 minutes. This is my nightmare. Have searched many forums and found nobody with this weird problem. At first it only happened once a week and was intermittent but now it's like clockwork.
Is it fuel related? Vacuum related? What on earth does the heater knob has to do with the gearbox???
Thank you for your patience any advice would be appreciated. Cheers!

 

[ray_hennig]

Good day, my name is Lucian. This is my first post here, sadly it is of a problematic nature of my car and i seek your opinions and guidance to aid in resolving the issue.
I will start with some facts about the automobile. It is a MB 300ce coupe produced in 1990 with a five speed automatic transmission (722.5) and 300cc 24v engine (m104.980). Many people who talk to me about the car ask me in irony if i paid money for it, maybe because of the engine size and the rust holes in the rear fender, i don't think much of their stupid inquiries i like my car it's a timeless classic and the rust just makes it look more vintage.
Now on to the bad stuff, the problem I've been having. I think i should start with my last trip. The car starts slow it takes at least five seconds of cranking to get it to idle from a cold start especially in winter. All is ok it shifts as ever, gets up to operating temperature fine so far. Have to make a stop at the market for 20 minutes or so. I get back and restart it, fires right up and the problems start: rough idle, after 5 seconds it stalls, restart it again sounds like it's on it's last breath put it in D take off and it refuses to change up just sits in second gear (the start gear).
Crawling my way to the 2 lane road where everybody is breaking the speed limit and doing over 60 i cross my fingers and hope for the best, i know in my heart it won't let me down it's a Mercedes and it will get me home no matter what.. and besides i know how to "fix" it. All i have to do is turn on the rear window defogger and the heater volume knob to full blast it will magically change gears and keep it from stalling . I can even down shift it from the heater knob if i turn it from 4 to 2. At this point i feel more like a DJ than a driver. So it gets me home. After i reach my destination i don't even have to turn the key, all i have to do to shut the engine is to switch off all the electrical gadgets. Let it cool for half a day and it's back to normal, driving flawlessly until next time i restart it..
I forgot to mention that if i restart it within an interval of 5 minutes it's okay, the rough running only happens if i leave it 20-30 minutes. This is my nightmare. Have searched many forums and found nobody with this weird problem. At first it only happened once a week and was intermittent but now it's like clockwork.
Is it fuel related? Vacuum related? What on earth does the heater knob has to do with the gearbox???
Thank you for your patience any advice would be appreciated. Cheers!

>> Where are you? Which country?

I have exactly the same sort of car. "Be optimistic". Sometimes these problems are not expensive to repair.

I shall assume here that you are ready to spend some money and that you are determined enough to pay for good quality parts. If it seems cheap, it's probably nasty. If you want it to work well, you must be ready to buy good stuff. Frankly, if money's a problem, get an old Escort instead.

Best to get the bits from MB but it is possible to economise IF you know what you're doing.

ALWAYS start with the cheap(er) things. Make sure:

Your OVP relay is OK - get a new one because they fail and cause widespread grief.

Your HT is in 1st class condition - distributor cap, rotor, leads and ordinary copper, non-resistor spark plugs. Replacing all these at MB will probably cost 300+ Euro. Buy new plugs (they're very cheap and get the RIGHT ones) and then clean up everything to see if that improves things. If you have misfiring when hot, replace the rotor arm.

Your fuel mixture (duty cycle) is correct. Buy a duty cycle meter and research this (Google).

Whenever you see an electrical connector, unplug it and clean it up with contact cleaner.

All vacuum tubes and connectors are NOT leaking and well connected. Vacuum leaks make it impossible to adjust fuel mixture accurately.

Build a code reader (Google research again). Read and clear codes, especially ones that control the gearbox - my 722.5 box is now working well for a total of 14 € for the code reader plus £25 for the microswitch under the gear lever.

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

The bad news is rust. If the rust is only on one panel, fine, repair it. If it looks as if there is ingrained rust, put the car to one side and use it for spares, buy another identical car that's rust-free (France is a good place for that) and concentrate on the new one.

That's it!

Bonne chance.

RayH

 

[grober]

I think you have a vacuum problem. The gearbox has a vacuum input that effects changes-- the heater ducts are switched by vacuum actuators if you have a vacuum leak from the manifold that will weaken the mixture and give you poor starting and idle. There are many systems [with the exception of the central locking which has its own electric pump] which depend on vacuum take off points on the inlet manifold. That's where I would start. After checking the manifold vacuum supply lines try isolating different systems temporarily e.g. the heater/aircon unit manifold - you will lose function but may help isolate the fault-- there might be mor ethan one source of vacuum loss of course. you just have to go over every thing methodically a mityvac http://www.mityvac.com/unit can be helpful for testing This online MB manual might help http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12264/?requestedDocId=12264

 

[danandgerry]

Clicked on to grobers link above (com/unit one) near blew up my laptop to scared to click on it agian or was it just a coincidence.

 

[grober]

try this http://www.mityvac.com/

 

[danandgerry]

Yes that works still too scared to click on the other one thanks.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:
- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with and without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.
- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to Ohm resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohm and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to this chart that i have found these numbers are off.
I have also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this :
http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor
It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm, preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the a/f ratio with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any change. Is it true that this can't be adjusted if the engine is not in closed loop?

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:
- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with and without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.
- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to Ohm resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohm and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to this chart that i have found these numbers are off.

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this :
Coolant temperature sensor measurement
It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried ad

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with and without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to Ohm resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohm and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this :
http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor
It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with and without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:
http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor
It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts triggers the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt value.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with and without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:
http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor
It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts triggers the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt value.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:

http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:

http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to open loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:

www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to closed loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1522194-iat-intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:

tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to closed loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)


I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:


It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to closed loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:

http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

 

[lucian25]

Upon further inspection of my automobile i have noticed the following:

- with the air filter off and the car running i proceeded to remove the vacuum lines connected to the manifold one by one. Upon removing the line that connects to the gearbox and goes under the car the idle sounded the same with or without, it only changes when i put my finger over the manifold and the engine seems to settle down a bit, bareley noticeable but a difference nonetheless.

- got hold of a multimeter and measured the coolant temperature sensor resistance. It has 2 pins to witch i connected the device set to resistance. When the engine was cold it showed 17 Ohms and when i got it to 80 degrees C (dashboard reading) it measured 0.6 Ohm. According to the chart from this post, these numbers are off: (scroll down the cts is there too)
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...intake-air-temperature-sensor-resistance.html

I also measured the voltage of the plugged in connector by connecting the negative of the multimeter to the battery - and the positive to one of the connector wires like this:
http://www.tiepie.com/en/automotive/Measurement_examples/Sensors/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor

It showed 5 volts with cold engine and when it started to heat up dropped to 2.98 at 80 degrees. It is my understanding that this number should be lower is that correct?

Could these be my problems? The vacuum line to the gearbox that prevents changes and the out of spec coolant temperature sensor that sends false readings to the ecm preventing the car from going in to closed loop and therefore running poorly when hot?
I would like to mention that i have tried adjusting the duty cycle with the engine running for 30 minutes and was unable to make any changes. Is it true that duty cycle can only be adjusted when the engine is in closed loop?
And if anybody knows at what voltage does the cts trigger the ecm to go in to closed loop? Maybe somebody could test their sensor in closed loop and tell me a volt reading. Much obliged.

 

[lucian25]

I keep posting my reply but it does not appear what's up???

 

[lucian25]

I can only post 1 line paragraphs!!