W124 transmission problem

[sub_zero]

hi all,
am not sure whether this is a transmission problem or not,my transmission shifts upward and downward all the way easily,but during shifting the engine revs up and then the transmission shifts.hope this is not a transmission problem.
This issue is 4 days old,yesterday I have changed transmission oil,filter and gasket hoping to sort the issue but unfortunately it did not.
I have changed the transmission oil after 37000 miles (60000 km).
my MB is E220 (1995) with engine type 111.
Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[grober]

There are 2 things controlling the gear shifts on that hydraulic 4 speed box.
1 The vacuum modulator and 2 the control cable. Both need to function correctly for good changes to occur. The control cable can go out of adjustment but more likely to be a failure of some of the vacuum lines /connectors/valves/ actuators. Check everything carefully for leaks/cracks/perished rubber etc
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/atta...ough-transmission-shifting-gearboxcontrol.jpg

Are you sure you have the correct new fluid level in the box---- too much or too little can cause problems. Follow exactly the instructions on measuring the fluid level on the dipstick.

 

[sub_zero]

Thanks grober,
10 days before, I was changing engine oil and the indy told me that the transmission oil needs to be topped up oil,I didn't want him to do so as I use only one kind of oil since I bought the car,which is Titan (Fuchs) and he has not that kind.
After a week from that day the engine started to rev up during change from 1st to second and from third to fourth (surprisingly shifting from second to third is very smooth).I thought maybe because of the low level in oil transmission,I headed to MB spare parts,bought 7 kilos of oil,gasket and filter and went to another indy (more professorial) ,they drained the oil,from the gearbox there was not much oil,but in the torque converter a lot was there.
they replaced it and measured while engine running and it was in the proper level (when cold it was below 80 C level and when warm up it reached 80 C level.),by the way the transmission took all 7 kilos .
There are two things I'm worried about:
1-the accelerator pedal was a bit loose(you have to press a lot to accelerate),so I tightened it by screwing the cable till the pedal is now very sensitive(this was a month ago and the car was much better after that with no revving up while shifting and the car started to kick down even when I'm over 80 km /h and became like new) and I don't know where this cable is connected to,I think to the Gear Box,I got this cable from one of the threads.
2- driving with low level oil in Transmission might have damaged something (God forbids).
The diagram you provided is amazing,but I don't know how to reach these components in the real world,especially the check valve(number 2) and the valves 4 and 5.
From your thread I think the control cable went out of adjustment (as I did it myself I think),how can I put it back to order ?
Thanks again

 

[soffean193]

Need to email bdabdabeav

Hi sorry for entering this thread, since I am very new to this forum and I do not know how to operate this type of forum since i am new to all of this. I need help how to contact a member? I need to contact (by email) this member "bdabdabeav" coz he have something that i want to buy from him (Brabus badge). Sorry again, to disturb this thread. Anyway, thank you out there, for those who will help me. Tanx again. By the way, my email address is [email protected] (if anyone can give it to him). Tanx again

 

[grober]

this advice thanks to DOUG 1234 on another forum It refers to adiesel engined car but the adjustment principle is the same.
The bowden [CONTROL]cable needs to have about 1mm slack in it at closed throttle.
You may need to move the throttle linkage open a bit to take up any free play in the throttle side before adjusting bowden cable tension,do this with the engine running so you can hear the revs rise off tick over and then check bowden tension
Best to just google it to get a clearer idea but basically the more slack in the bowden cable then the engine / box will change gear reluctantly ie gutless performance a bit like you have.
More tension equals gear changing at lower revs,so in the case of my diesel w124 four speed box then I have the tension set to allow just over 4k as the shift point with foot down hard.
If I increase the tension on the cable then shifts creep lower down the rev range,allowing more slack in the cable then will see higher rev shift points.
It is not that easy to get it where you want it often due to sloppy throttle linkages that give varying results each time throttle is applied but I expect the petrol engine has a lot less joints in the linkage than the diesel. Throttle being very heavy could be a sticky inner cable at the engine end,mine was like this when I purchased the car and the inner cable had been oiled to death so I used brake cleaner to de gum it and this worked well.
Some inner cables require no lube as doing so can make them swell and bind.
The vacuum lines may have a slightly different layout in your car- you really have to trace them back from either the gearbox or engine end.

 

[grober]

Hi sorry for entering this thread, since I am very new to this forum and I do not know how to operate this type of forum since i am new to all of this. I need help how to contact a member? I need to contact (by email) this member "bdabdabeav" coz he have something that i want to buy from him (Brabus badge). Sorry again, to disturb this thread. Anyway, thank you out there, for those who will help me. Tanx again. By the way, my email address is [email protected] (if anyone can give it to him). Tanx again

PM'd for you

 

[soffean193]

Thanks grober. Hopefully he will email me. Tanx