W124 woes

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Thanks a lot for the good advice, guys! One final question - does it make sense to get it waxoyled, and if yes, then how do I ensure that I am not spraying wax over rust or dirt and just covering a hidden sore that will eat the car from within? And what about jack points, windshield frame, etc.? Because, mine is indeed rust free, but how do I ensure it will stay that way? And lastly, van you recommend a reputable undercarriage specialist in London (I live in Paddington) who could do the job well and not break the bank?

i am going to undercoat waxoil the whole of the underside (body) of my W124. I'll be doing it myself, however on mine, plenty of patches of surface rust needs rubbing down, treating and painting prior to the new underseal. I've already done the area under the rear exhaust up to the rear floorpan.

Whoever does it needs to fix whatever damage is there 1st. i think you just need to speak to the person who is doing it.
 
Hi BorisRusafov I know the feeling. I got a very good car but have melted down an almost identical amount of gold (£4.5k) doing loads to it in the first six months. Sills off, jacking points tidied and painted. Bit of other body tidying plus 20 years of stone chips fixed. AMG 17x8 wheels bought and powder coated, plus four new 225/45 Conti Sport Contacts. Lower ball joints. Gas struts for rear tailgate replaced. Dinitrol rustproofing. Engine and gearbox mounts. H&R lowering by 30mm or so. Service. Etc... It's a dream motor but has taken longer than expected. It goes in for a proper audio install next week so I get quality but an invisible standard look. Then graphics and roof rack to complete... When are we going to see a picture of yours?
 
I have enjoyed my W124 E280 saloon for many years. It was passed to me by my father who bought it second hand in 1997 (new M reg in 1995). Very light use in the past, just 73,000 miles so drives like new -- but I use it as my main car.

The loom being the main issue in the past, then usual servicing costs plus a little rust to fix. I would say these cars offer decent luxury motoring that you should enjoy more and more as time goes by.

Other road users stare at it with admiration now. Especially that now they seem to be a rarer site.
 
This sounds fantastic, can't wait for the pics!!!
 
Harryk,
An M120 transplant?! How's that going? And has anyone attempted or succeeded stuffing a straight six 3.2 turbo diesel into a W124? I'm thinking the one from a later W220 S class.
 
Have seen the M120 in a W126.

The OM613 has been fitted to many different cars but costs big bucks for the electronics to make it work.

The M57 3.0D from BMW is an easier transplant if you want modern diesel in earlier cars.
 
A BMW engine in a Merc?... I don't know, I worship the big iron-block 3221cc straight six from the post-facelift W220. So you are thinking - too much trouble?
 
I don't know why you would to be honest.

It's a great engine in a great car.

The W124 has some great motors from the factory.
 
Guys and gals,

Need your collective wisdom! After spending all that cash on getting the car into a roadworthy condition after its 13-year barn slumber, I took it out for a spin around London this morning, and it overheated again. And this after a new head gasket, loom, radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, pressure clean of all water passages of the head and block, full tune-up, etc. What is up with that?! And by overheating I mean the needle getting right up there a hair below the red mark.
What's the normal temperature for a 320E anyway? My 200K mile estate never wavered from the 80-degree mark, regardless of load, ambient temperature, speed, traffic, etc. it did have a/c with the accompanying dual fans in front of the radiator though which my current car doesn't have. Would that explain the difference? On this one, the mechanic told me should be a hair below 90 degrees (the mark between 80 and 120). Would a high-capacity radiator help matters? What a out a 'colder' thermostat?

Thanks for all your advice in advance.
 
I would take it back and explain the problem so they can look into it. It may not actually be the engine overheating (but don't risk it) or the fan not cutting in.
It is a possibility the temp guage is misreading, maybe a fault in the cluster or the wrong sensor!
Thats the first step, see how it goes from there.
Its a shame to hear of this so soon, not being able to enjoy your car after its completed is anoying but sometimes there are teething problems especially after a long lay up.

Hope you get it sorted with the minimum of problems.
 
still got air lock ?

also stat must be orientated so that bleed hole is uppermost when seated and before top put on and bolted down.
 
Thanks for the tips! It's booked for a stereo install tomorrow, but it'd definitely going back to Klasse of Fulham the next day. Like you guys say, it could be nothing, but don't want to risk it. And the car looks GOOD, and feels amazing on the road. Just want to have that feeling that it's undestructable, too. Oh, and the sound system will consist of an Alpine DAB+ radio with Bluetooth, 4 Alpine speakers with tweeters in the original locations, an under-the-seat amp, and a small but powerful sub in the boot. Very discreet, I think. The two main features really are the digital radio and the hands-free.
And yes, I know pics are way overdue, but I can't relax before feeling the car is fully sorted.
 
Car is back from the audio shop and booked at Klasse of Fulham for first thing tomorrow. The DAB radio sounds amazing, the amp is well hidden under the back shelf in the boot, and sub sits very neatly in the side valley in the boot behind the left rear wheel well. It looks as though Mercedes engineered it that way - looks absolutely factory!

Jaz from Klasse of Fulham said on the phone that most probably the fan is not switching on when the car is idling and that's why the temp rises. Hopefully he's right. Full update tomorrow after I pick it up.
 
Probably requires a new viscous coupling on the engine fan. You could also have a faulty coolant reservoir/ cap failing to pressurise the system. [ new cap will sort that one] Other possibility is a faulty temperature gauge / sender meaning you are not getting a true reading as suggested.
 
Cheers, Graeme. Will go there tomorrow armed with this info and will of course suggest it to the guys. All else seems sorted, just that uneasy feeling that I don't completely trust the car yet...
 
If cooling system is working properly, the car will hardly ever need the viscous fan to come on, in the UK temps.

Mine will idle all day and stay at designed temp without viscous fan coming on, and like you I do not have the air con fans in front of RAD.
 
Add to the above that the viscous is usually replaced due to being locked on permanently rather than not working at all.
 

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