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W208 soft top sequence

Thank you so much I will check it out as soon as I am able and let you know. Its been rainy here and I have not had a chance to get the top down.
I will let you know how I fair.
Kindest regards
David:)
 
Still with roof problems

Thanks for last post I finally got the hood open and checked out the micro switch on the rear cover latch. I metered it an the switch is OK and wiring seems OK. I am not sure if I should bend the small metal tab away from the switch or not as it is quite easy to bend and this is in contact with the micro switch.
Hope to hear from you when you can.
When I have got this fixed I have taken pictures of the various areas where there are switches for the roof and want to post to help in the future.
regards David:)
 
The best way to check the operation of the switch is to unscrew the locking prong from the bow. Then you can insert the prong in to the lock (as it would if the bow were shutting) and check to see that the lock, and the microswitch, all work properly. I will have a look on WIS tonight to see of it could be anything else.
 
When the roof closes, and the bow lowers down, does the bow actually clench fully down as the bow lock pulls to - you should be able to see the bow lower all the way down, then pause slightly before it squeezes shut as the lock makes an audible click. Is this happening? If not then the fault could be something else.
Also, you mention checking the 'rear cover latch' - are you talking about the bow, or the compartment cover?
 
Thank you for your all your help. I finally traced the fault to the wiring loom just behind the small plastic cover on the UK drivers side below the hinge of the of the rear lid.
I have taken pictures and want to post them showing the location of all the switches and where the I found the fault. Any idea how can I post these on the site for future reference.
All the best
David
 
W208 Roof switches

My roof sensor switch was not giving the signal
that was needed when the bow engaged into the latch.
I traced it down to both wires leading to the micro switch being broken. This was caused because the wiring was too short and had rubbed on a sharp edge on the inside of the plastic cover. I have taken photos to help anyone in the future, sorry about the quality only had to shrink to upload on this site.:)
 

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Better pics pleaseeeee

HI,

Same problem as yourself and the pics are great to sort this out. Is it possible to get better copies as I'm unable to read some of the yellow text. I would be most grateful!

Cheers, Giles
 
Giles
Hold down your control key, then rotate your scroll wheel.
This will zoom in so that tou van read the writing more easily.

Not perfect, bit it should work for you.
 
Tried the latch but

H,

I unscrewed the bow latch on my 2001 CLK320 as suggested by Chris468 to test the cover locking mechanism. However, when I poke the latch into the slot, its not engaging the lock/microswitch. Is this because the lock/switch is disengaged due to the roof being partway up? Would welcome some advice on how to do this.

I thought I could test if the switch was working correctly by raising the tang on the micro switch so its always up which mimics the position if the latch was engaged (ie roof down) but this hasn't fixed the issue of the switch/car not recognising the roof is down and locked in place. I have looked at the wiring and it doesn't appear to be broken. Any other ideas before I take to the mechanic - gulp!

And lastly, thanks to everyone for contributing to this site - very useful. And satisfying when one is able to avoid taking it to the shop for repairs.

Cheers, Giles
 
The roof control module is unhappy if any of the sensors are operated in an illogical sequence. In fact, it will shut down with a fault code to show 'illogical sequence'.
The good news it that it will reset just by switchng the ignition off and trying again.
This might be relevant if you have 'operated' any of the microswitches/sensors (e.g. by sticking the prong in the lock, or bending the microswitch permanently closed,) during a live sequence and got it wrong - the control module won't play, it is far too crafty for that!

The bow lock is operated by a small hydraulic ram. So, to manually operate the lock in order to check whether the microswitch is working, you need to open the bypass valve on the pump module. This will allow you to push the ram through its stroke to operate the lock. The best way to test the mciroswitch is to disconnect the wiring connector to it, and stick a meter on it whilst manually working the lock.
Now that you've altered the microswitch tab, I would recommend you do this anyway and get the lock assembly working properly in isolation.

I would be very careful about interfering with any of the sensors during a live cycle - I like my fingers just as they are! I should have pointed this out in my earlier post - sorry.

It would be useful if you could post up the exact symptoms. It could well be just a minor fault.
 
Thanks for your advice. The symptons are the same as the person starting this post. Roof close interupted mid cycle one day lead to the bow lock not completing locking. Now the bow closes and locks but seems to miss a secondary locking stage which pulled the bow down further. Driving with roof down is fine. Driving with roof up gives a slow flashing red light on the up/down button and a series of dings when I start driving which shuts off after a few seconds. The boot won't open when the roof is up but does when the roof is down. Microswith wiring appears intact.

Can you confirm your reference to disconect the hydraulic pump to test the lock manually means to turn the screw on the rear of the backset in the boot compartment as I woudl if manaully raising the roof?

Cheers, Giles
 
Yep, the bypass screw is the one accessed from the boot, through a flap in the bulkhead carpet. The owner's manual shows exactly where.

From what you describe, you're definitely looking at the right area - the bow lock and/or its microswitch.

When you reach the point in the closing sequence where the bow closes into place, is there any change in pitch from the pump?
 
Further to above and me fiddling around with the ram and switch, my car failed to start yesterday. It turned over but didn't fire. After about ten minutes it then started. Engine fault came on and then disappeared. Drove it again today and the same thing hapened. Do you think the roof issue and the not starting issue are related? Think it may be time for the garage to take a look.

Thanks.
 
i too am having problems with my roof. Ive just bought the car and the roof doesnt work. Ive had a look through a lot of posts and ive confused myself.
I turn the handle for the roof and press the switch the windows go down but roof doesnt. Also the rear headrest button doesnt seem to do anything. Ive tried swapping the relays, not sure what to test next so rather than test everything i thought id ask the thing you would test next as it maybe common and ive just not read it yet.
Also in yorkshire uk.
 
can anyone tell me if theres a way to put direct power to the pump to see if the pump works while its still in the car. I dont want to do this though if anyone knows it will do damage to something else. I see your in barnsley chris, fancy having a look at mine :rock:
 
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I definitely don't recommend power straight to the motor.

You could try disconnecting the battery for ten seconds - it has worked on mine when the roof failed (red switch light permanently on)

You will need your radio code, and you will need to reset bas/esp (turn wheel from lock to lock)
 
Thanks i will try that tommorrow as its a bit late and dark outside now. I have a feeling its likely to be an expensive fix.
 
Hi to all. I am having the same problem,s "well my wife is" now I,m in trouble... I got an "indy" to hook up to our W208 with his computer, I had previously striped the car down so as to do a visual on the wiring and other things to try and source the problem. He came up with two readings. NO1. LIMIT SWITCH STATUS UNKNOWN code B1650. Now I have trawled through loads of forms and apparently this means you have a limit switch fault on the left hand ram that lifts the rear screen section of the roof. You will need to manually lift the rear screen section to see it, and must follow the correct procedure to do that. The switch clips to the ram body and the moving slide clips to the piston rod end. If you look it has probably bent and come off at the piston rod end. This is what I have found out about this fault it relates to this limit switch..
Now to be honest I have copied N pasted some stuff here so cheer,s to a guy called UNCLE BENZ for all his time and wisdom. I hope this helps. I shall endeavor to try and fix the problem when the weather gets better. If I can I shall try to upload some pics of my adventure.
Regards and many thanks to all.
DEL
 
Now to be honest I have copied N pasted some stuff here so cheer,s to a guy called UNCLE BENZ for all his time and wisdom.
DEL

That'd be me on the other forum. Thanks for the kind words!

:-)
 

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