W208 soft top sequence

[paulmonkton]

Hi mate I got same problem back part of roof lifts up then the lid moves up about a few mm then clenches down and holds there , do u access the limits switch from inside the boot trim , I have already removed the metal plate cover in boot thanks

 

[paulmonkton]

Clk lid not opening

Not sure if this is right place to post , clk 230 convertable. Windows goin down back window lifts up , then the cover lid goes to open moves a few mm then clenches down and stays there , any ideals thanks how to open lid manually ,

 

[Falcon45]

SOFT TOP / ROLL BAR LIMIT SWITCH PROBLEM
The roll bar light switch (S83) blinks until I turn the engine on fully and go through at least one up/down cycle. I have determined that this is probably what is stopping my soft top from working automatically as it also keeps the soft top light switch (S84) permanently lit.
1. FUSES
First thing (simplest) I checked was the fuses...there are 3 fuses related to the soft top operation:
Boot Fuse Block F4 - Fuse 11 - 15A - Provides power to N52 Soft Top controller
Ditto - Fuse 13 - 40A - Powers & protects hydraulic pump motor for soft top
Engine Fuse Block F1 - Fuse 15 - 5A - Also provides power to the ST controller (N52)
These were all OK.
2. Hydraulic Unit Components
Next I checked all the pistons and rods and there are no hydraulic leaks plus the hydraulic reservoir level is normal. The pumps and motors also all seem to be working fine with correct fluid levels and the whole open/close sequences works fine on manual...although red light (S84) never goes out. The Roll Bar/Head Rests also work fine operated through the S83 switch.
Here is a list of all the components checked, their location and their part numbers for other members:
Switchable check valve for manual ops Behind rear seats a 001* OK
Roll bar hydraulic unit (power soft top) Ditto A7/5 001* OK
Hydraulic unit relay Ditto A7/5k1 001* OK
Motor Ditto A7/5m1 001* OK
Power soft top control module Ditto N52 001* ??
Soft top control block (7 connections) Ditto Y56/2 001* OK
There is a good article here in the forums on how to access this and all other ST related units by removing boot carpets and linings and the metal angled panel covering the hydraulic unit...it is honestly not rocket science if I can do it and should only take a few hours to completely strip and then get working...but try not to lose any of the nuts and bolts and cover pins.....about 30-40 in all.:
As none of the fuses or hydraulics seemed to be out of order I then I took it to an Indie who charged me £35 to put it on their star diagnostics and was amazed that it came back with no error codes. We presumed it was simply a faulty switch and that the N52 Soft Top Control Module must be working normally but simply getting a false signal from somewhere...but where?
As far as I can see the only causes I have left to check are the limit switches themselves:
3. SWITCHES
I have tested the following switches with a voltmeter according to the voltages I found in as the MB blogs/forum quote them as the most usual culprits for the N52 soft top controller getting a false signal...
Switch Description Position Part # Qty Status
S83 - RB manual ops & indicator switch UCP to left 1 Blinking Red
S83/5 - RB extended limit switch LHS RB ram to top 1 ?
S83/6 - RB retracted limit switch LHS RB ram to bottom 1 ?
S84 - ST open/close & indicator switch LCP left of gear stick 1 Constant Red
S84/5 - ST compartment cover open switch RHS boot hinge end A 208 820 22 10 1 OK
S84/11 - ST locked limit switch Front passenger roof lock 1 OK
S84/13 - ST open/close train limit switch LHS of A 208 820 24 10 1 OK
S84/15 - ST fabric bow up/down limit switch Under LHS fabric bow towards rear A 208 820 23 10 1 OK
S84/16 - ST bow locked limit switch Under middle of metal bow lock 1 OK
S69/10 - Luggage cover engaged limit switch Luggage cover RHS track end 1 OK
A25S1 - Bow Cover open/closed switch Bow locking point A 129 821 11 51 1 OK
A25S2 - Bow Cover locked switch Bow locking point A 129 821 12 51 1 OK

To be honest, the switches marked OK have only been checked for voltage and resistance at the switch end because I do not have the 126 pin socket box (Part # 129 589 00 21 00) or test cable (part # 104 589 00 63 00) to check the N52 module end in the boot. So I have two questions remaining for the forum:
1. Does anyone know where I could borrow these parts from to check the switches from the N52 end;
2. Alternatively , is there an Indie out there who would be willing to check S83/5 and S83/6 for me and order and replace if necessary?

 

[Falcon45]

Just another couple of points on the above as no-one has responded yet:

1. Having just thought that after the roof lock is opened and the windows go down, the next part of the signal process should be a window limit switch to tell the control module N52 that the windows are down before the roll bars are activated. Hence, having diagnosed the toll bar limit switch as the problem, it is perhaps more relevant to check the power windows limit switches first as I have been doing a lot of work on the drivers side window which over and under shoots intermittently when closing.....I had to re-rivet the winder mechanism as the rivets sheered when the window got stuck after and accident about 10 years ago and I have had problems with this window ever since. Unfortunately I cannot see anything on this wonderful thread about window limit switches. Does anyone know the designation and location of these switches....I canot even find which pin they connect to on the N52 module....but surely they must;
2. Is it possible to test all the limit switches by disconnecting the N52 module and applying a voltmeter/ohmeter and auto power probe to the end of the cable disconnected from the module. I have a copy of Chapter 11.5 Cabriolet Soft Top (CST) , Roll Bar (RB) from a MB diagnostic manual I found on a Belgian website (attached) if anyone is interested. It gives all the Diagnostic Test Codes, Switch Locations, N52 pin designations and a complete electrical test program with required values (most of which already appears on this thread in bits and pieces but here it all is in one place).

 

[wistbit]

I have just brought a CLK 320 (1999 UK registered) soft top Mercedes the roof stops just after the front of the hood starts to move a and needs a push to get going once the front strut is at right angles to the adjacent one everything works as it should. On closing everything is fine although the front of the hood has a hard stop.
It would seem to me that its a micro switch or a relay that's the cause as the hydraulic fluid level is correct and I can't see any leaks.

Any clues or advice would be most appreciated

 

[mercvic]

Giles
Hold down your control key, then rotate your scroll wheel.
This will zoom in so that tou van read the writing more easily.

Not perfect, bit it should work for you.

 

[mercvic]

Giles
Hold down your control key, then rotate your scroll wheel.
This will zoom in so that tou van read the writing more easily.

Not perfect, bit it should work for you.

 

[joeycessna]

Hi, I replaced all the hydraulic cylinder seals (piston rod, piston, front and rear gland) on my 99 W208 but still having problems with the roof. It is doing any of the open/close sequence steps. To make matters worse, the door windows went down and won't come back up. And the rear windows won't go down. Even the mirrors Don,t work. Does anyone have a chart that shows each step of the opening and closing sequence, what limit switch does what and it's location? There is a very good one for the W209 but I can't find anything for the W208. Thks, joe