W210 - 99 E300TD - Suspension Refurb

[RodgerDodger]

I am planning to refurbish the beasts suspension - items on the agenda are listed below (order placed today with dealer for parts in bold)

Please note: although some part numbers given below maybe common accross the W210 range, I have noted that some parts (in partucular the springs and shocks) are rated dependant on cars specification/trim/options etc. - this is the main reason I have sourced the bold parts direct from the dealer and discounted other sources.

• FRONT SPRINGS - £58.65 inc vat each. - Pn. A2103212104
• REAR SPRINGS - £60.95 inc vat each – Pn. A2103243404
• FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS - £100.63 inc vat each
• REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS - £108.68 inc vat each
• FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHES-£5.29 inc vat each - Pn. A2103231585 x 2
• FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS - £8.34 inc vat each - Pns. A2103203789 & A2103203789 (L/R? tbc)
• ENGINE MOUNTS-£79.35 inc vat each - Pns.A2032400617 (L) & A2022403017 (R)
• FRONT PADS - £59.85 inc vat
• FRONT DISCS - £60.95 inc vat each - Pn. A210 421 2212 x 2
• REAR PADS - £47.66 inc vat
• REAR DISCS - £41.63 inc vat each - Pn. A210 423 0612 x 2
• REAR SUBFRAME FRONT MOUNTS - £59.23 inc vat each
• REAR SUBFRAME REAR MOUNTS - £45.54 inc vat each

I have quite a lot of questions - all respsonses/comments welcome

Springs
Do i need rubber shims for the top of the springs - car is an ********** on 98K
Ditto - the aluminium anti-corrosion rings at the bottom - not sure if they come with the springs
Do anyone have set on spring compressors i could borrow - near central Scotland

ARB link and bushes - will research the forum for the links / howto's - any major bananna skins worth mentioning?

Engine Mounts - Ditto ARB above

Brake Disks - bit of a dilema here - should i go OEM or upgrade??

Brake Pads - ditto disks - thinking out loud...the pads and discs should be packaged together - is this correct - or should i mix and match (cant get pick'n mix now ) - Any advice or general comments very welcome

Tools and Equipment
Any advice on small/specialst tools needed (particularly for the above items) would be appreciated.
Also, are there any special MB Spec or better fluids/llubricants worth investing-in - for above and general future maintenance?

Tks
R

 

[Dieselman]

You don't need to change the rubber spring pads unless changing the ride height but do need to order the alloy anodes to go under the springs.

Changing the ARB bushes and links is easy, but be prepared to need to paint where the bush mountings have been pressing on the chassis rail.

When undoing the bolts on the bushes and links give them a soaking with oil and then give the torx bit a good bash with a hammer to shock them free before undoing them.

Do the engine mounts one at a time so the engine doesn't move sideways, also consider the gearbox mount at the same time. Check by pushing the tail upwards.

For fluids stick with MB ATF but the rest just use quality synthetic oils.

For brake pads I think EBC greenstuff are good.

 

[RodgerDodger]

You don't need to change the rubber spring pads unless changing the ride height but do need to order the alloy anodes to go under the springs.

Changing the ARB bushes and links is easy, but be prepared to need to paint where the bush mountings have been pressing on the chassis rail.

When undoing the bolts on the bushes and links give them a soaking with oil and then give the torx bit a good bash with a hammer to shock them free before undoing them.

Do the engine mounts one at a time so the engine doesn't move sideways, also consider the gearbox mount at the same time. Check by pushing the tail upwards.

For fluids stick with MB ATF but the rest just use quality synthetic oils.

For brake pads I think EBC greenstuff are good.

Was thinking the spring pads may be perished being 10 year old rubber but dont want to change ride hieght -will change the anodes

ARB - will prep and paint skuffs for protection, soak bolts with WD40 and a good bash

Engine mounts - should both sides be 'loosened' slightly for flexibility when removing each side in turn?
for info - i asked the parts guy if i should buy and replace the gerabox mount also - he replied that he had queried this with the technician/mechanic when costing the parts - apparently the technician said that are a bugger to replace - and are very rarely changed on these cars - so didn't order it - will have a peek when the mounts are being done - edit - will definately change this one ifit staightforward - any idea

will do some research on EBC pads

thanks again DM - will be signing off soon and post tomorrow ttfn

 

[RodgerDodger]

Got the bold parts today from dealer - cant believe the size of the engine mounts - they look massive!! - to pick-up the anode shims tomorrow

Ordered GS Pads last night online - 98 quid all in for all 4 corners including sensors (one axle only)

MOT and A Service Tomorrow morning (indi)

Refurb work will be done in the coming weeks/evenings (indi and self assisting)

 

[Dieselman]

There should be sensors on both front and rear pads. As long as they haven't worn down and cut the sensors, then just reuse them.

 

[RodgerDodger]

Are the sensors at the front and back the same - can they be interchanged? - was thinking that i could salvage the best/least grubby ones

 

[Dieselman]

They are all the same, just pull them out and reuse.

When fitting the greenstuff pads, especially on the rear, use the anti squeal shims and copper grease both sides, otherwise they will squeal like mad for ages.

 

[RodgerDodger]

They are all the same, just pull them out and reuse.

When fitting the greenstuff pads, especially on the rear, use the anti squeal shims and copper grease both sides, otherwise they will squeal like mad for ages.

Anti squeal shims? - do the GS pads come with these supplied

 

[Dieselman]

No but there should be some behind the MB ones on the car, just reuse them.

 

[RodgerDodger]

Got the anode shims for the bottom of the front springs today from dealer - apparently they are not put on the rear
Cost 3.52 pounds inc - Pn A2023210036

car passed MOT - with advisory for front tyre wear - will change the fronts after the above work is done

Mechanic says the pads and disks are fine - and reminded me that he had replaced the fronts only a year ago! - plan is now to change the rear disks only - will do this when the pads are being done allround

 

[RodgerDodger]

Just received the EBC GS pads

For information

They are stamped 'Made in England'

They are 2000 series, upgrade 7,
and have anti-squeal shims fitted to the outer faces - not sure if this par for the course

 

[Dieselman]

and have anti-squeal shims fitted to the outer faces - not sure if this par for the course

Metal shims or rubber pads.? Front or rear pads.?

 

[RodgerDodger]

Metal shims or rubber pads.? Front or rear pads.?

Shims - look stuck-on
they appear to be thin metal (maybe hi tensile? - around 1mm thick) coated on each side with what appears to be a thin veneer of rubber
also, they're on both front and rear pads

text on the box: under "NOTES FOR THE INSTALLING MECHANIC"

"Most EBC pads are now fitted with noise reduction shims on the reverse side of the pad and also now have edge chamfers to reduce low speed brake noise."

- was wondering if this is new from Version 6?

 

[Dieselman]

They've been like that for a while but still squeal like mad on the rear due to the drum brake ringing like a bell.

Reuse your MB shims and grease both sides.....or wear earplugs.