W210 E55 cuts out then takes a while before will restart, help!

[popuptoaster]

Left my car sitting for a couple of hours yesterday and it wouldn't restart, due to one thing and another about an hour later a mate said rather than let it start itself, give it a bootfull of throttle and if its flooded because of worn MAF or old plugs the extra air should get it going, which worked first try.

Wasn't sure but thought maybe it was just because it was really cold and car has a lot of miles on and maybe should get a service doen even though its not saying it needs one.

but today i got stuck in stationary traffic and the car just died after 3 or 4 mins of sitting still, wouldn't restart, throttle or no throttle but maybe five minutes later is started fine. then on another journey a few hours later it dies on me while actually driving normally, same again, took a few mins before would restart.

Anyone got any clues? have to move house this weekend so both busy and skint!!

 

[DSM10000]

Classic symptoms of a failing crankshaft position sensor although it could be other things. Have you scanned for any fault codes?

Without a through scan it is all guesswork and that is an expensive way to diagnose problems

 

[popuptoaster]

Dont have a scanner that will read it unfortunately, my mate who is ex RAC also suggested it sounds like CPS and its quite common. For the sake of the 25 quid and ten minutes to do i'm going to try that tomorrow. If it doesn't work i'll have to pay for a scan.

 

[DSM10000]

Dont have a scanner that will read it unfortunately, my mate who is ex RAC also suggested it sounds like CPS and its quite common. For the sake of the 25 quid and ten minutes to do i'm going to try that tomorrow. If it doesn't work i'll have to pay for a scan.

A genuine CPS is more than £25 I think, I had one replaced on a C320 petrol and the part from MB was £104, I did buy a genuine MB CPS for the 320 CDi and that was around £30 though!. There are lots of cheap sensors available but they tend not to last.

As for 10 minutes to change; if it is anything like mine on the C320 it took the Garage a good 90 minutes as it is rather difficult to get to as I believe it is at the back just above where the gearbox meets the engine block on the M112, if your engine is the M113 version then I imagine similar?

 

[popuptoaster]

apparently is difficult to reach but can be done with a torx wrench without disassembling the car. i suppose we shall see, im happy to fit a pattern part for now and replace it with a genuine one later on, needs to be cheap, have spent all me money on xmas,, moving house and daughters first car!

 

[Will]

I always smile a little when it comes to the genuine vs. alternative part for stuff like crank sensors.

It’s the genuine ones which are known to commonly fail...

 

[DSM10000]

apparently is difficult to reach but can be done with a torx wrench without disassembling the car. i suppose we shall see, im happy to fit a pattern part for now and replace it with a genuine one later on, needs to be cheap, have spent all me money on xmas,, moving house and daughters first car!

I was told a Dwarf Gynaecologist with joint hypermobility would have proved useful

 

[DSM10000]

I always smile a little when it comes to the genuine vs. alternative part for stuff like crank sensors.

It’s the genuine ones which are known to commonly fail...

After, in my case, over 160,000 miles on the Mercedes and 140,000 miles on my SAAB so how common is "common"?

 

[Will]

I’ve done three MB ones (all Bosch) and one on my 911 (also Bosch)

2001 CLK55 (M113)
2000 E320 (M112)
Late 90’s C280 (M112)

2003 996 3.6

63k miles, 70k ish, 110k and can’t remember what the other one was (80-120k approx), not in that order above.

The 911 one was the most awkward...

It’s not the mileage that they last to really, just the fact that pretty much every older V6/V8 MB will have one go during their lifetime.

I wonder how many MB have sold and installed over the years? Must be tens of thousands at a guess.

Wonder how that compares with the electronic components on say Japanese cars?

The Porsche one I went for a genuine Bosch item as it was hard to find an aftermarket part (and a right PITA to remove) but the MBs I used aftermarket ones and never had any trouble afterwards. Was still a fraction of the cost of the (faulty) Porsche supplied (Bosch) item.

You pays your money etc

 

[popuptoaster]

Mine has 227000 miles on it, have all the paperwork and it was looked after by the same dealer all its life up to 2016 so might be able to find last time it had one and it should in theory be a genuine part.

 

[Will]

Before spending out on a new CPS and fitting I’d still invest in a cheap code reader at the very least.

CPS faults will show up on there easy enough.

If you have an Android phone I think you can get a cheap wireless OBD 2 adaptor for literally less than a fiver.

 

[Will]

Eg:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/223331032038

Adaptor cable if needed:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/123221570613

Not sure if you’ll have the OBD port in the driver’s footwell on a 2000, have you looked? Otherwise it should be in the engine bay

 

[DSM10000]

I’ve done three MB ones (all Bosch) and one on my 911 (also Bosch)

2001 CLK55 (M113)
2000 E320 (M112)
Late 90’s C280 (M112)

2003 996 3.6

63k miles, 70k ish, 110k and can’t remember what the other one was (80-120k approx), not in that order above.

The 911 one was the most awkward...

It’s not the mileage that they last to really, just the fact that pretty much every older V6/V8 MB will have one go during their lifetime.

I wonder how many MB have sold and installed over the years? Must be tens of thousands at a guess.

Wonder how that compares with the electronic components on say Japanese cars?

The Porsche one I went for a genuine Bosch item as it was hard to find an aftermarket part (and a right PITA to remove) but the MBs I used aftermarket ones and never had any trouble afterwards. Was still a fraction of the cost of the (faulty) Porsche supplied (Bosch) item.

You pays your money etc

On both occasions I needed the car back ASAP and both were stock items at the dealers ................Hmm, probably a fast moving and high profit part?.

 

[Will]

I think they could be cheaper considering they’re a known weak part and Bosch sell them for a lot less than MB’s retail.

One member on here had one replaced FOC under Mobilo, which seemed pretty fair

 

[AMGeed]

The OEM CPS for my 2004 E55 was £96 part only when replaced a couple of years ago.

 

[DSM10000]

I think they could be cheaper considering they’re a known weak part and Bosch sell them for a lot less than MB’s retail.

One member on here had one replaced FOC under Mobilo, which seemed pretty fair

I did check on a website when the SAAB was playing up, in the end the dealer was cheaper than a specialist CPS website!! Both were on V6 engines and "absolute barstewards" to change

 

[popuptoaster]

Before spending out on a new CPS and fitting I’d still invest in a cheap code reader at the very least.

CPS faults will show up on there easy enough.

If you have an Android phone I think you can get a cheap wireless OBD 2 adaptor for literally less than a fiver.

I have an OBD2 scanner the car is OBD1 though,, I tried an adapter with it as apparently sometimes you can still get engine codes but mine doesn't pick up ECU at all.

 

[Skd884]

Mobilo replaced my Cps on a 1999 amg last year and charged £123.64, if your last service was at a main dealer they will do the same for you.

 

[popuptoaster]

Didn't go well! Spent about three hours attempting to get an E8 torx socket on the bolt, cant seem to get it to seat well enough to put any force on without it slipping off. Not sure if the socket is to chunky to fit in the gap around the bolt or if the bolt head is damaged.

I got a dodgy photo from my cheap USB phone adapter endoscope thingy but can't determine the issue, it does look a little mauled but not serious and the socket does fit on it, just doesn't feel like it slides down far enough to grip.

 

[Will]

Tread carefully. It’s hard to see for certain but looks as though you’ve slipped off a few times already?

I used a 1/4” drive E8 socket, decent quality (snap-on) with a variety of extensions, UJs and wobble bits to get access. Hold it dead straight onto the fastener with one hand and apply torque carefully with the other. It was pretty easy on the 210 320 (V6) but very tight on the CLK55 (same engine, smaller chassis..)

What I would say is even if you get the bolt out, be aware that sometimes these crank sensors can be awkward to remove. I had one seized solid in my 911 and instead of being a 10 minute job took many hours and swearing to get it out (don’t ask!)

Fortunately on the MB ones I did they all came out easily..but with age and mileage yours may be less willing. I’d never have thought a plastic coated sensor could become seized in place but believe me it does happen.

Best of luck

 

[Gbrowncls55]

Ive had six Mercedes over the years and every one has had to have a CPS at some time, About £100 plus fitting, although the AA man did two of them!. All the rest of my cars Probably another 50+ (I am quite old) have not had one fail. Odd eh? Without tempting fate , just waiting for the CLS55 one to go so I have a full house.