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W210 estate ride

Charles Morgan

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 2, 2010
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8,206
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Mercedes 250CE W114, Alfa Romeo GT Coupe 3.2 V6
Having made the switch from a W124 estate to a W210 320 cdi quite effortlessly - I love the torque and refinement of the engine, the economy is significantly better in day to day driving and it feels more rigid - I think a single piece dash takes away a lot of creaks and groans, the only thing I compare unfavourably is the ride.

Now, my multivalve W124 had superb comfort having had its bushes, ball joints and spheres done. The 210 has sports suspension and on really good roads it just rides beautifully. On choppy ones though it jars and thumps a bit. All the bushes have been done, so the next things to do are probably the spheres - however, before I commit to that, how does the ride sound to those with 210 estates with sports suspension? It sits on Michelins, so I can eliminate poor tyres but some comparative input would be welcome. I suspect it will never ride as well as a multivalve, but I'd like to eliminate anything not intended to be there, especially as I have a set of 18" AMG monoblocks to put on when the tyres wear out!
 
Having made the switch from a W124 estate to a W210 320 cdi quite effortlessly - I love the torque and refinement of the engine, the economy is significantly better in day to day driving and it feels more rigid - I think a single piece dash takes away a lot of creaks and groans, the only thing I compare unfavourably is the ride.

Now, my multivalve W124 had superb comfort having had its bushes, ball joints and spheres done. The 210 has sports suspension and on really good roads it just rides beautifully. On choppy ones though it jars and thumps a bit. All the bushes have been done, so the next things to do are probably the spheres - however, before I commit to that, how does the ride sound to those with 210 estates with sports suspension? It sits on Michelins, so I can eliminate poor tyres but some comparative input would be welcome. I suspect it will never ride as well as a multivalve, but I'd like to eliminate anything not intended to be there, especially as I have a set of 18" AMG monoblocks to put on when the tyres wear out!


I find the difference in ride in these estate cars to be:

S124 - Marshmallow floating. Wallowy.

S210 (Sports Pack) Refined, assured firmness. With the sports pack, it does sit quite low to the ground. A few inches lower than a 211 I would say.

One thing I will say about the 210 is that it was always a little too firm over the first 5 miles (bit clunky and squeaky) but then seemed to settle down nicely.
 
I find the difference in ride in these estate cars to be:

S124 - Marshmallow floating. Wallowy.

I sits to high Paul hence why it feels all over the show but that`s the beauty of it

I got myself an S210 lately and as much as it`s nice,it`s not a 124.Not for me thnx :o
 
What Dash. An S210!!! You traitorous rat. Not that bad are they though:devil::D
John:Been looking for a nice S124 for a while now without having to go to know 124 traders but had no luck.As I said,the 210 does not do it for me
Drove a friends 211 a while ago and still,nice but not for me

Don`t know what`s going on here :dk: maybe I`m stuck on the early 90`s

PS:Look who`s talking about traitorous :D
 
What I am trying to establish is whether my 210 needs new spheres - ie, do owners of other 210 estates with the same suspension find that it creaks and thumps over poor road surfaces?

The W124s are super cars, but this gives me effortless torque, much better economy even using said torque and a splendid gearbox. But being a W124 nut, I want to get the suspension as close to perfect as possible, as the symptoms I get on mine would on a W124 cause me to get the spheres done. Here I'd prefer not to do it if it is a function of the sports suspension being too hard or not having enough travel.
 
I have an s reg e300 turbodiesel s210 elegance. I love it. The ride is comfortable and smooth. It can be / does get thrown into bends really quite hard and even though you might be getting a close-up view of the tarmac through the side windows, it's sure footed, solid and doesn't feel unsafe.

A mate has a 52 plate e220 cdi estate Avantgarde. I drive it from time to time. It's like driving a skateboard! Uncomfortable, jarring, tinny, too close to the ground. I don't like it at all.

A workmate has a j reg w124 e300 d estate. Lovely car, floats around the place but you don't actually feel connected to the road. It's too soft in my opinion, although if it was a more modern vehicle with mod cons, I would consider one.

For me, the elegance is the best all-rounder. If I wanted a sports car to chuck around, I wouldn't buy a Merc.
I know lots of people like the Avantgardes but in my limited experience of one, other than the options, I don't see the point.

I expect I'll get shot down now...
 
I suspect the sports suspension was put together in Germany by someone who thought eat as many sausages in a minute competitions are a form of sport. I don't think it handles any better than a W124 (certainly less so that my sportline coupe) but it does have considerable sidewind stability.
 
I had a W124 230TE and still miss for ride quality at 250k miles I had still not touched the suspension other than with waxoyl, whereas the present W210 classic at 200k miles just lost the threaded stem from the top of the offside self levelling strut. It had corroded right through snapped and the strut top went into the wheel. remarkably one could not sense any immediate problem driving it. Potential consequences are not nice to think of, the inner tyre wall was down to fabric . Do take a look at the top of your struts now and again it seems water is pumped up into the body by action of the buffer rubbers. I have made a simple sheet plastic shields tucked under the plastic inner arch to stop water shed from the wheel running down over the strut tops. A new strut is 290pds I got a s/h one from Allparts for 50, it is corroded but servicable. I thnk it maybe possible to repair the strut top. Changing the strut is straightforward, drain the hydraulic reservoir best to vaccum it out then crack off the oil supply union to the strut take care - wear safety glasses. Removing the inner trim to get at the strut top is tricky but once in the know a 5 minute job first pull off the trim at the seat belt top mount by moving the rear edge to the rear. all steel clips are best removed and refitted to the car steel work before putting the trim back .
 
Charles

I have a 320CDI AG estate with lowered sports suspension on 17" wheels as a factory option - I answered a post recently on the ride:

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/1465925-post7.html

It is far from smooth and quite bumpy in town, but good out of London - photo below when the old girl was bit younger in 2005. I recognise the creaking you mention but generally put it down to Wandsworth speed bumps rather than the car. It replaced an aging E34 520i Touring which was much better ride-wise. I have subtly adjusted tyre pressures in the past, but that just means little noticeable difference to the ride and uneven tyre wear.

With hindsight I would have tried to find an Elegance, but mine was in the best condition of all the ones I looked at and that took long enough!

Sean
 

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This whole thread is unquantifiable IMHO as the whole thing is subjective on a personal level.

On buying my S211 320 Sport I straight away thought that the standard so called 'Sport' suspension package was toss.

The car felt mushy, floaty and generally wallowy when pushing on.

Had it all ripped out and replaced with an H&R coilover sports kit which although is a massive improvement is still not taught enough for me but on the plus side it's the best for keeping my 19" alloys safe from Pot Hole damage.

Yes I'm not expecting Evo 10 handling but the Beemer 5 series M Sport still reigns supreme over the E class in the handling dept'

So as you can see when people complain about soft set up cars like AG's being harsh it just shows how diverse customers are!
 
I have an S210 2002 avantgarde with factory fitted 18" staggered monobloks, the clonking was quite bad when I got the car.

I had the font anti roll bar bushes done along with drop links and this cured the noise at t he front.

Subframe bushes & spheres transformed the ride to almost silent on crappy city roads ( raised / dropped man holes, pot holes etc... Subframe first - huge improvement, then spheres after diagnosing they had gone. This has totally removed the harsh banging noise over bumps you mention.

Check your subframe and that your self levelling rear is working correctly before you spend any money. Bleed any air from the rear spheres before replacing.

As my car is in Budapest the labour charges are very cheap compared to UK so this work was not expense and cheap enough make it pointless for me to get my hands dirty. The parts were not that expensive, I sued Eurocarparts and brought the parts over from UK when back on a business trip.

Best £'s I've put into the car for sure.

The quest for me is now what is the best tyre for the mono blocks and here seems to be no definite answer.

Are there any tyres which have a stiff side wall but are quiet on these wheels.
 
Thanks datripsta - that is exactly what I was after, an informed answer based on actual experience of the car. The sub-frames have all been done, so it sounds like the spheres are the next thing to check / replace.
 
like I say, the spheres finished it all off nicely but...... we have sports suspension and a heavy car with rubber bands...don't expect it to absorb everything. I will admit I still get the "oh s..t that sounded expensive" noise when going over big pot holes or low manhole covers but this is more down the the tyres than anything else.

I'm well happy with it now.
 
I find the difference in ride in these estate cars to be:

S124 - Marshmallow floating. Wallowy.

S210 (Sports Pack) Refined, assured firmness. With the sports pack, it does sit quite low to the ground. A few inches lower than a 211 I would say.

That is exactly how I would have described the difference between a W123 and a W124 ; with the 123 being soft and wallowy and the 124 being firm and well controlled ( as were the earlier 114/115 series that went before the 123 ) , I blamed it on the 123 being designed to make penetration into the American market .
 
Update, visited Olly today to sort out duo valve, but a ride in the car enabled Olly to pronounce the spheres fine - the ride is about as good as a sports suspension 210 will get so I'll have to think twice about putting 18inch AMG monoblocks on it. Shame really as they look so good but I'd rather not make the ride any harsher.
 
Thanks datripsta - that is exactly what I was after, an informed answer based on actual experience of the car. The sub-frames have all been done, so it sounds like the spheres are the next thing to check / replace.

So there's nothing wrong with the car then and it's just your personal preference then Charles?

As I said then..................;)
 
Fully concur - 18'' wheels will ruin the ride. My S210 still has the original 16'' wheels and, to my mind, this gives the best of both worlds - Avantgarde stiffness if I want to start chucking her round the bends, but yet with the ability to absorb bumps and holes without upsetting the ride.
 
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My e 300 td est OS rear self levelling strut top mount failed that, is the lug on the top rusted ,broke and it went into the tyre, I was lucky - rubbed to fabric. I replaced it with a s/h one. I had already fitted new spheres some 400miles earlier. When I drove it afterward the ride was better and then after a very heavy load it has improved massively , now firm but comfortable. I think getting the air out of the system is just a matter of time and making it work. no need to bleed it just drive it. I cant see how the bleed valve will remove air from the legs. I may have been driving with a disconnected strut for many miles. I think they will stay located in position even with the top mount broken simply because of the hydraulic pressure and a large bump dislodged it then without restraint it elongated. Last year I blew the supply pipe to the leveling valve it was rusty and replaced them in copper from thr front of the rear wheel arch, tricky no problems with that. One last comment if you have the original extended wheelbolts on alloy wheels change them. I usually torque them up 110nm but had two tyres fitted and they were overtightened I was lucky to avoid breakage an indy used a large copper mallet and got them out for me without breaking them and no charge. - Daren at Protech in Newbury.
 

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